Best configuration for two flashes (SB28 and SB22s)

[intellidots]

Please help: I'd like to practice indoor portrait using my available

two flashes. Here are what I have: F100, SB28, SB22s, SC-17. I'd like

to use my SB28 as the main light and SB22s as the second one. By

reading some related postings, I think I will need either a SC-19

cable or a SU-4. Since both are not cheap, I'd like to buy one only.

Which one will work better? Thanks!

[bruce_rubenstein___nyc]

Attach one light to the camera with the SC-17 and fire the other with an optical slave (Wein makes a nice one that you can slide a shoe mount flash into model HS? for under $30). You don't get TTL, and a meter would be best (true for any multiple light set up), but you can get by with Auto or manual.

[robertfarnham]

I have both the SC19 and SU4. Both allow you to keep TTL. The cord has a length limitation of course - it's 10 ft long, I think, which isn't much, and it's always in the way. The SU4 keeps TTL for quite a distance - the specs can be found online somewhere through Google - and will fire at manual from a longer distance. I'd go with the SU4 if you need TTL. Alternatively, buy a flash meter and a Wein. If you plan on doing much studio work in the future you'll get the meter eventually.

[intellidots]

Thanks for the answers. They help a lot. I forgot to mention that I do have a meter (Minolta) and I do plan to try more studio work mainly indoor portaits)with this setup before I decide to buy some more serious lighting equipments.

Here is my understanding based on your suggestions (hope this can help others who is in the similar situation):

 

Option 1: F100---SC17 + Wein HS($35 at B&H)+ SB22s

Pro: Inexpensive, un-wired to the second flash (?)

Con: Lost TTL

 

Option 2: F100---SC17----SC19 ($40 at B&H)---SB22s

Pro: Support TTL

Con: Cost a little bit more and wired

 

Option 3: F100---SC17 + SU4 ($75 @B&H) + SB22s

Pro: Support TTL and un-wired to the second flash

Con: The most expensive one.

 

Now my question is: How important is the TTL? Do all these three options suport manual mode?

[robertfarnham]

Jeffrey, if you have a flash meter I think you'd be better off perfecting it's use rather than relying on the camera's meter to do your thinking. I find it far more satisfying and has really helped me understand lighting ratios, fill etc. Plus, though the Nikon meters are very good, they can still be fooled, especially of you're dealing with a black or white background or other difficult lighting situations. The flashmeter will read the actual light hitting the subject, not what's bounced off it.

 

It took me about four months to move up from using TTL. Now I do everything manually when I have the time to set up.

 

But to answer your question, yes, the dedicated Nikon cords and slave controller can be used in manual mode, but they make for expensive sync cords - something I learned the hard way! Good luck.

[robertfarnham]

Oh, and if you do everything manually, you don't need the SC17 either. It's very short - 5 ft stretched out of it's coil. I found it limiting enough to buy two and linked them. Bloody thing kept pulling over the stand with the main light when I moved around!

 

Go out and buy a plain old 15 ft long PC sync cord and link it into your main from the terminal on the camera. That way you can be a lot more mobile with the camera in your hands.

[intellidots]

Robert, Thank you very much for the explainations. I think I know what I need now. BTW. I like your photos posted here. They are wonderful images.