Large Format & Zone System � How Synonymous?

[david_blackett]

I learned the zone system 24 years ago, and used it in all its note taking glory religously for about a year with every format from 35mm to 4x5. I'm with the majority of people above who read the shadows and highlights to figure the contrast range and expose accordingly. It would be a great help to anyone starting LF to at least understand the principles of the system. There is a great book out there by Carson Graves called "The Zone System for 35 MM Photography". It gives a straight forward easy to understand explanation of the zone system and how it works.

Good luck!

[james___]

I use the hafassedschul too with the only modification being what filters I am using and what I want from the neg when printing. I want to know how the #58 grn filter behaved in bright blue skies at 9000 ft on light aspen leaves versus fir trees or whether a polarizer was added. Or which filter brought out the stains on rock walls in Zion or Canyonlands in such and such lighting. Other than that I just need to know if I am N, N+, or N- and how much. I set my shadows at zone 4 normal or zone 3 up high. Simple once you establish your film speed and printing protocol.

[thomas_viscelli]

FWIW - I was taught the Zone System back in school. My teacher at the time simplified it to the "use a spotmeter and expose for the shadows (Zone III)/develop for the highlights (Zone VIII) method" mentioned in several of the previous posts. In order to do that, though, you definitely need to understand just how and why the Zone System works, so some study should be involved.

 

OTOH - all the record keeping isn't really necessary, since that teacher also taught me, and I eventually found out for myself, that for all the photographic situations you might encounter, you'll be using only 3 or 4 different exposure combinations. Tops. Any more than that and you're doing something wrong. Except, obviously, for unusual problems or deliberate effects. ~;->

 

Just to comment on a couple of the previous posts - like Graeme, I develop by inspection. That takes another layer of the paperwork of the System out of the loop. You don't have to worry about the strictly correct time/temp to get the proper density. You can see it build as you work.

 

As for the Zone system for 35mm - it might be a great book and explanation (I haven't seen it myself ~:-)), but the nature of the beast prevents the System from being effectively used except for individually processed negatives, to wit LF.

 

As for color, I always use an incident meter and get bang on results every time.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Tom

[michael_odonoghue]

If both Zone Systenmm and LF can be thought of as states of mind then they are related inasmuch as we're after the best results our materials can yield and these are paths to those results.

 

Placing the high value on VIII and making the exposure seems to work for me. Usually clouds when I'm outdoors, which is most of the time. Expose a negative as indicated. Then close down 1 and a third (or half or two thirds) stops and expose again. Give the second negative twice the development and take your choice after proofing. Scanning is time consuming and I find I don't "see" the print in the screen. I've got to have the paper in front of me to see the print!

 

Been using TriX and HC110B all these years. Am about to try Bergger's 400 with Pyro....

 

Been at it some twenty years and still get a kick out of making images.