10D wedding images: A Report

[fotografz]

Shot 4 gig cards full of 10D wedding images last weekend (2

weddings), and I thought to share how it went.

 

It went great. The camera was a back-up to the 1Ds I reported on

eariler. But because it is smaller I used it more than originally

planned ( the 1Ds does get heavy as the 90 degree hot wedding

day progresses). I shot with a 420 EX flash and LumiQuest

diffuser mostly on ISO 100. I noted that the 10D files that were

underexposed didn't show nearly as much noise in the darks as

the 1Ds did when they were lifed in levels. That really sped up

the processing time.

 

I mostly used a 24/1.4 and 85/1.2 wide open for a majority of the

10D shots. The L glass is quite good even at those apertures.

Made 13X19 maximum sized inkjets from slightly cropped 10D

files and they are razor sharp at the focus point (usually the

eyes).

 

Zero focusing problems, got almost every shot I was after, color

is absolutely stunning, zero overexposed wedding dress...what

else can I say...this camera is a winner.<div></div>

[john_c.2]

Thanks for the report and glad to know it went well. May I know what setting you were using in conbination with your flash? Before you print out these images, did you use USM in PS? how much?Thanks.

[fotografz]

Heavily cropped detail from above image. The stuff that looks like

white digital artifacts are actually sparkles in the make-up. I hate

when brides use them.<div></div>

[fotografz]

John, I usually shoot in Manual mode with flash unless

outdoors where I use AV. I leave the flash on ETTL and

compensate it based on distance to the Bride's white dress.

 

Indoors in low light, I try to get as much ambient light working as

possible, and rarely stop the lens down very much nor shoot at

fast shutter speeds (the flash freezes most movement). BTW,

this shot was done in a dark reception hall hand held.

 

I shoot in RAW so I can correct the mixed light temps you get

when shooting that way. I just click the RAW developer eye

dropper on the dress and let everything else fall where it may.

 

After making the basic corrections in the Canon File Viewer

Utility, it opens in PS-7 and I tweak it a bit more. For big display

prints I use Fred Miranda's 10D, Step Interpolation PS Plug In

(which I think is better than the Genuine Fractles program for

sizes to 20X30 inches). Only then do I sharpen using Unsharp

Mask.

[chris moseley]

Marc - thanks for the great post. Did each image have to be "tweaked" (levels? curves?) in P'Shop? Also, I too would love to know your flash combination: which Lumiquest product? Flash setting? Camera Setting/Mode?

 

Chris Moseley

[gerry_szarek]

Marc, stunning photo's, incredible detail! What exposure method did you use, matrix or center spot?

 

Thanks

GS

[zlatko]

Marc, I agree with you about the 10D for weddings. I find that the image quality is really stunning. Do you spend a lot of time post-processing after a wedding? Would you share some details of your post-wedding workflow? Photoshop + Camera Raw or Canon File Viewer Utility, etc.? Also, I've heard the 85/1.2 is slow to focus -- have you found it to be slow or just right?

[fotografz]

Okay, you guys asked for it...

 

First I tend to underexpose a tad because there is no fixing

blown whites in a wedding dress. I have the highlight warning on

with both cameras. I don't like the small image of the 10D when

the Histogram is also there...but it's better than blown whites. It's

fairly easy to lift the images in the RAW developer and tweak the

color saturation back up in PS. The 10D does this better than the

1Ds IMO.

 

The flash is easy to compensate so you can balance it out with

the ambient light. You don't need any formulas, just look at the

LCD. When I enter a dark reception area I do a test shot right

away, and it stays close to that for 80% of the shots. As I said, I

rarely go above ISO 100 or so because I never know which shot I

may want to enlarge to 13X19.

 

The diffuser is a LumiQuest ProMax, and the flash is mounted

on a Stroboframe Press T flip bracket with a Canon off camera

cord to allow portrait oriented shots with the flash directly over

the lens (that's how this shot was done).

 

Work flow: dump gig cards with RAW files onto desk top; copy all

of them to a separate 200 gig hard drive, and disconnect the

hard drive when done (that way no matter what happens, I have

the wedding). I also burn a DVD of all the RAW files as soon as I

can.

 

Open 1Ds files in PS-7 Adobe RAW Developer, and select the

best of each event that would be destined for the Album. Save

those as Tiffs in a separate folder marked Album. (Usually 150

images to cull to 40 for the album) Do the same with 10D files

using the Canon RAW developer. In both cases I lift

underexposed shots and balance the whites. You can do more

corrections in the Adobe program, so I can't wait for PS-8 which

will support 10D RAW development.

 

In PS-7 I tweak anything needed mostly using Fred Miranda's

preset Actions designed specifically for each camera. Saves a

ton of time as it is all automated. With some Bride's, and Mom's

a bit of skin softening is in order, which I do with the clone tool at

about 15% and then add back in any grain with the noise filter in

PS. I then resize the original Tiffs to preset mat sizes for the

Albums I use. Most are 7X10 or 7.5X7.5 inches. Last step is

sharpening.

 

The 85/1.2L is indeed slower to focus than other L glass, but you

have to consider how huge the glass is. It works okay for me. I'd

use my 70-200/2.8 for anything needing faster focus. But for

isolating the eyes you can't beat the 85/1.2. It's fast enough to get

the candids I try for (see posed example taken with the 1Ds and

85/1.2)<div></div>

[john_c.2]

Excellent write-up and images. Thank you Marc and look forward to seeing more!

[gary_ferguson1]

Inspiring post, thank you.

[ajpn]

Very informative. Thanks Marc.

[jack_lo_..._t_o]

Stunningly sharp images. A not-even-newbie question: do you have to create the out of focus areas or does it work the same way as a film camera w. aperture settings? Because the sharp-to-oof transition looks a litlle "different" to me, esp., in the first shot.

[dlegaspi]

more images please :-) can i see a few shots with the 135/2L??

[patricks]

marc, thanks for more invaluable advice.

 

i find these workflow discussions essential, because as a 10D weekend user one doesn't have the time to really educate oneself enough to take full advantage of this wonderfull setup.

 

On the 10D - after shooting 6-7 gig of photos on the vacation - i do think my model tend to blow out the whites quite easily, thus it is now set on 1/2 stop below.

 

on the ps8 - any idea on what a ps8 upgrade will cost and when it is due? it feels like a waste (even if only a small one) to pay $100 for a Adobe RAW converter program than then pay e.g. $150 for a PS8 sw upgrade in a couple of weeks...

 

Well, well. Thanks for the report. Keep'em coming!