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changing film in mid-roll with rangefinder


curtis_nelson

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Hi,

 

I'm currently shooting 4x5 and find that the older I get, the

heavier the equipment gets, so I'm thinking about getting a 6x7

rangefinder camera (Mamiya or Fuji). Does anyone know if it's

possible to change film in mid-roll (and, of course, reload a

partially exposed roll) with either of these cameras? This is pretty

important to me. If not, can someone reccommend a rangefinder

camera that will?

 

Thanks

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You can't change film in mid-roll with any Medium Format camera that doesn't have interchangeable backs. The ones that do are pretty old, bulky and heavy: the Koni-Omega and Mamiya Universal systems are the only choices that allow this. The much more modern and streamlined Mamiya 7 system would not allow this, your only choice would be to use multiple bodies.
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You could try to unload the film in a changing bag/tent and rewind it manually by hand for future reloading. I think on a manual film advancing camera, it would work. Power winders often rely on a certain film tension, namely that of factory-wound film.

 

The only rangefinder I know of that has interchangeable film backs w/ dark slides is the Horseman SW612/612pro, the latter having vertical rise. They are available w/ 6x7, 6x9, and 6x12 film backs, use Rodenstock lenses.

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Koni-Omega Rapid M allows for mid-roll changes of magazines. The K-O 200 does the same but the 100 model, while having interchangable backs, does not allow mid-roll changes (unless you want to ruin the film). I am not sure about the K-O Press models. The K-Os are fast to use, heavy and rugged with excellent lenses (58, 90, 135 for some models, 180).
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Everything is possible. While MF film can easily be removed from a camera mid roll, either by pressing a wind-on button or shooting empty frames with the lens cap on, getting it back into the camera is the problem.

 

I can think of two ways, both cumbersome. As 120 film is only attached to the backing paper from its leading edge, winding it manually, in the dark, back to its original spool is tricky and would probably lead to kinks. 220 film should be easier since both ends of the film are attached to the paper leaders.

 

Another way would only work with old fully manual cameras, mainly those that use the rear window for frame positioning: Open the camera in complete darkness and remove the film with both spools in place and store it in a light tight container before putting it back again. Modern cameras would mess up the frame counting when opening the camera back.

 

In short, too much trouble for what you get.

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I've rewound 120 film numerous times. It's tricky but not all that difficult. Use a lightproof changebag, wind the end of the paper back on to the original reel in the light, keep the two reels close together and place in changebag (actually I hold the two reels tightly in one hand and put my hand through the "arm" of the changebag and then put my other hand into the changebag through the other arm)Keep the two reels very close -about 4 or 5 cm- and carefully roll the paper backing back onto its original reel, keeping everything very tight. The tricky part is when you come to the edge of the actual film. Make sure it doesn't buckle and stays absolutely flat against the backing paper as you wind it onto the original reel. Keep winding tightly until you come to the end which is attached to the backing paper with adhesive tape. If you've done it well there will be no buckling. Keep the tension right to the end otherwise you will find the paper backing protrudes beyond the diameter of the reel. It is worth trying a few times in daylight with an old unwanted film before attempting the real thing.

 

Ray

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