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Rolleiflex new wide TLR and focusing screen


jaime_font1

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A month ago i bought a new Rolleiflex FW 4.0. It's a Wonderful

camera, really well made, robust and smaller than my Hassy. It suits

my style (discreet people photography, as well as architecture)

better than the noisy Hasselblad because of the size, quietness and

vibration free. But as a previous Leica M user, i find the screen too

dark to focus in dim lighted interiors. The Hassy was brighter (of

course the Leica was) with it's Accu-Mate, but that's maybe because

of the 80 planar 2.8 i was using on it.

 

I find that sometimes the sharp focus point in the photograph is not

exactly where i remember focusing (slightly back or front), i don't

think it's a problem of the camera (i've done some tests on a tripod

but don't have the results yet) but just a problem of the very narrow

depth of field when you focus groups at about 1'5meters and f.4 or

f5.6.

 

Do you have any recomendation about the focusing screen? Does rollei

make a better screen or is the Beattie the best option? And Maxwell?,

i've read some very good reviews saying is easier to focus (that's

what i need more -some extra brightness also welcome-, but i live in

Barcelona (Spain) and don't have any way to try them, neither know

the versions they produce...

 

Thank's for your opinions, you're always of great help.

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I'm really curious. What does your Rolleiwide do that a Mamiya 6 couldn't do for thousands of dollars less (plus offer interchangeable lenses)? Don't get me wrong, I love TLRs, and I for one might well have bought a Rollei FW 4.0 if it were not priced exhorbitantly.

 

BTW, while I have no experience with current Rolleiflex TLRs, I certainly can recommend a Maxwell screen for any older Rollei. The Maxwell screens are FAR SUPERIOR to the Beattie screens. The Beattie Screens will give you extra brightness, but they are quite hard to focus. The Maxwell screens, on the other hand are both bright and VERY easy to focus - it appears to visually just snap into focus.

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Congratulations. I have a GX, and I wish I had an FW - it's my dream camera (and not the Mamiya. If one has to ask...). I imagine that the screen is the same on both. I believe Rollei does offer a screen that is similar to the Acute-Matte on the H.B., and I have heard that it is interchangeable, but I cannot confirm this personally. "Bright" screens (aka Fresnel screens) are usually coarser and help mostly with framing, not focusing. The traditional ground glass on my old Automat is far, far sharper than any Fresnel-based screen that I've ever seen or ever expect to see. Furthermore, "bright" screens are mostly only brighter at the corners. Your screen is probably a good compromise, and I recommend that you just get used to using the magnifier and split-image prism. I always do so. Enjoy your camera. Cheers!
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Obviously, grepmat has never compared a Maxwell Brilliant-Matte screen to the standard screens in any Rollei TLR. It is VASTLY superior to any typical fresnel screen, and FAR brighter than any old ground glass screens AND far easier to focus. It makes a night and day difference in the useability of any camera that uses a waist-level finder. I will acknowledge that a standard groundglass might be VERY SLIGHTLY sharper, but the difference between in-focus and out-of-focus is much harder to distinguish in a groundglass screen than in a Maxwell screen. They are a pain in the rear to buy and install, and not cheap (around $125-150 when bought direct from Bill Maxwell), but they are WELL worth it. BTW, in my opinion, grepmat's opinions are perfectly valid for Beattie and BriteScreen products, however. THOSE screens are NOT substantial improvements on the original viewing surface. They Maxwells, OTOH, are dramatic improvements.
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The camera lens is superb between f8-f11 (not a scientific test, just my first impression) and quite difficult to use for a beginner in MF like me at f4-f5.6. That's because of very narrow depth of field; i come from Leica M -mostly the equivalent 28mm- and i used to work mostly wide open with short distances to the subject. It's not a 'problem' of the camera, just of my inexperience. That's why i'm posting this, i need a screen that helps me focus more accurately and quicker. BTW, wich screen would you choose (i've recieved a mail from Bill Mawell ofering different tipes of screens), a matte-only one, a split + microprism + matte or a microprism + matte? My actual split screen is rather slow and difficult to use; the image does not split 'quick' enougth, sometimes you think you have the focus point, look at the matte surrounding and see you are not focused yet.

 

About the camera, i think it's in another league comparing to a mamiya. I'm not a pro, just an enthusiast of photography AND cameras. I can't say the Rollei does things the Mamiya can't do, and i can only presume the lens is a bit better, but the feeling of the camera, the pleasure of working with it is far better -for me- than most cameras. Closer to the Leica M than i thought.

 

Thank's for your colaboration.

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I'd personally question your presumption that the lenses on the Rollei TLR are better than on the Mamiya RF. In my experience, the wide angle lenses for the Mamiya RFs (espeicially the ones that use the biogon formula) are among the finest lenses made for ANY medium format cameras. I just think that the advantage is so small as to not be worth choosing a system. Also, the Mamiya RFs actually handle just like big Leicas. TLRs handle like, well TLRs. That's simply a personal preference. I actually sold my Mamiya 7 RF because I couldn't justify it's system cost compared to a Koni-Omega setup that I got for 1/4th as much, but I NEVER had a gripe with either the handling or the optics on the Mamiya.
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Jaime, I again recommend that you just get used to using the magnifier and split-image prism, no matter what screen you might use. I only use the general screen for framing purposes after focusing, regardless of what aperture or distance I'm at, except perhaps when set to infinity (which is farther away than most people think). Your screen is perfect for that. People are exceedingly good at judging if edges are aligned, and if the prism says it's in focus, it surely is to a far higher degree than is necessary, provided it's properly in position, of course. By the way, as you may have found, it's important that your eye is centered when using the split prism, which the magnifier enforces. Furthermore, the meter reads from the screen and is sensitive to stray light on it, which is reduced by using the magnifier and getting in close. That's another reason not to switch screens - the meter may be thrown off. Your Rollei is not meant for casual high-speed use anyway. As I'm sure you know, depth of field is independent of camera brand (aside from lens focal length and certain other rules of physics). But even with your 50mm lens, you must focus precisely with a large aperture, especially at close distances. Enjoy your Rollei FW, which is a marvelously sensual camera with a marvelous heratige and, I'm sure, one of the best lenses ever created.
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Thanks for the info Jaime! Yes, it seems you have a great camera. I love my TLR's. They are the only camera type that I own that feels as good in the hands as on a tripod.With a lens as good as a Leica M. I would get the brightest easiest to focus screen that you can find. Maybe the Maxwell will do. I have heard that the Rollie meter siphons a bit of light off the screen on the newer Rollies so this would make sense.A couple more questions.... How close does this camera lens focus Jaime? Can you put closeup lenses on it. How is it's performance wide open? Thanks!
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Hello All, <P>

 

I know I am going to get people pissed, but I think the stock non-fresnel screen on a Rollei is the absolute best. The acid etched glass gives a very fine focus, and the grid allows for easy leveling. Sure, it is not very bright at the edges, during the day I don't find it much of a problem, even indoors, if you put the magnifier up and press your eye right down to it, rock the camera from side to side, and shift your view, the edges are plainly visible, even at night. What I find most bothersome with Fresnel screens (Beatty, Maxwell, and those form Hong Kong sold on ebay) is that they trade off brightness for image sharpness. With all of these products the circular lines are visible with the unaided eye, and really show up with the magnifier, the Maxwell is the best in this regard, but still lacks the sharpness of the acid etched glass. The other problem with the Maxwell is that if you are not exactly perpendicular (you may need to consult Lex on this one) to the screen then there is no image at all. The best compromise is to go to your local stationary store and buy a Bausch and Lomb thin plastic fresnel and lay it on top of the ground glass, fresnel down, but even then there are still some fresnel lines. <P>

 

In a perfect world every screen would have an acid etched glass with focus grid whose lines also represented �ideal format� underneath of this there would be a very fine fresnel (lines down) with a blank area half an inch in diameter right in the center. The two pieces would come packaged together and they would be of the same thickness as the current Rollei glass and after installation would require no focus adjustment.

 

What I really wish Rollei would do is adopt the Ikoflex focus screen, since it was (and is) the brightest ever put on a TLR, and avoids those annoying fresnel lines.

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i have to correct grepmat: the metering on the fw (and the gx)is not disturbed by a different screen, as the meter-cells are behind the mirror. i second also mark in his choice of screen: the original glass rolleiscreen is the best to focus, but very dim- i use the additional fresnelscreen now sold on ebay. the maxwell is vastly superior in brightness, but snaps not so fast into focus, especially in bright outdoor light.
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Emile, the camera can focus to 0.6 meters, but i don't know if closeups can be used. I always like to shot very close to the main subject (i think it's the best way to show the best perspective of wide angles) and i also like shooting interior scenes so, i'm usually close to f4. There the lens shows superb quality. Very good contrast and detail. The only 'problem' is depth of field, you must be very carefull if you want a group of people focused. It's early to make conclusions (i have the camera since august) but i'm really satisfied with it.
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I used the bright screen from 6008I on my 2.8GX. It's the same size. The screen is $278. If your FW uses the same body as GX, it should work. Great purchase, you are making many people jealous now. You will have the answer the question "my TLR can do the same thing but it's $4,000 cheaper".
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  • 2 months later...

Hello everyone,

 

I would like to contribute to an answer to the few questions discussed here since I

am lucky to own a Rollei 4.0 FW, am familiar with the maxwell and beattie screens ,

and also own the mamyia rangefinders (6 and 7)

First, to Jaime I would not recommend that you change your screen on the 4.0FW. this

new rollei is equpped with the new generation of screen and a maxwell screen will not

make your rollei as easy to focus as your leica rangefinder

To think that a brighter screen will allow you to focus accurately on the ground glass

is a misconception.

Bill maxwell who is by the way an pleasnat person to deal with will tell you that on the

old Rollei TLR ( I own two of them for which I got the maxwell screens) even if the

maxwell screens make focusing easier and more pleasant, you must use the loupe to

focus accurately

Given the brighness of the HIGH_D screen on the 4 FW, changing the screen would

be a useless mexpense.

as a side note the person who wrote that on the 4.0 FW the meter is also fooled by

the light falling off on screen is also right, Toa chieve accutare metering you can

either :

measure the light when using the loupe

covering the hood with your left hand and read the modified reading

 

 

As for the comments on the lens qaulity , I would like to day that this lens ais an

amazing performer. yet , I have to dsay that I do not believe the lens to be superior to

the mamyia 50 mm lens available for the rangefinder. but the reason to choose one

system versus the other does not reside in the qaulity of the lenses both outstanding

I have both the mamyia 6 and 7 and I won't beat around the bush : the build of the

mamyia is very,very poor. This is the lowest quality of medium format build I have

ever have and I have owned quite a few over the last 19 years

Also the meter on these two rangefinders is not TTTL ( through the lens ) and is

rather inaccurate ( even if the mamyia 7 II shows minor improvement in this regard ).

If you want to make pictures of people and travel photography, the rollei tlr is also

more discrete, the camera is better build than the mamyia and works without battery

power

the only advantage of the mamyia over the rollei 4.0 FW ( and the main drawback over

the 4.0 FW IMO, outside the price) is its unability to use 220 film which is so practical

when on long assignments or so crucial to not miss the decisive picture on an

camera which is not quite quick-loading

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  • 1 month later...

I would agree with those who suggest keeping the stock screen, if accurate

focus is the issue I would first test close focus wide open on a metric ruler at

minimun focus distance. This will reveal any discrepencies between apparent

focus (on screen) and actual focus at film plane. It might well be off! I have

had a brand new Master Technika be way off with all holders (elite, Fidelity,

and Toyo). These same holders were spot on with my Ebony. Once you have

determined mechanical accuracy of your focus, you might change your

approach to focus as well. Undewater photogaphy relies heavily on close

focus/ macro due to water turbidness and the need to retain contrast and

colour saturation. With the presence of sway it is next to impossible to

acheive focus manually even less likely w/ autofocus. At 1:1 ratios depth of

field is almost nil. The only effective and accurate way of gettinf sharp focus is

to pre-focus and move( sway ) in for the kill. This technique is also highly

effective on land when shooting close and wide open. Lastly I congratulate

you on your choice of camera, I do not understand the call for comparison

between it and a Mamiya 6&7, I have owned both ( mamiya's) and whilst the

optics were indeed irreproachable, the build quality and tactile enjoyment left

me cold and the Mamiya in the closet.

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  • 5 years later...

<p>hola jaume . no se si este foro sigue anun en pie pues hapasado algo de tiempo el caso es que si tines la oportunidad de poner una maxwell en to rolleiflex hazlo yo la tengo y literalmente es asombroso la cantidad de luz que desarrolla la imagen en la pantalla , el unico rollo es que los de maxwell precision optics trabajan un poco raro en el tema comercial y las formas de pago son bastante arcaicas e inseguras para mi modo de ver pero en cuanto a sus productos son feten para quitarse el sombrero</p>

<p> vivo en figueres so quieres un dia que pases la vienes a ver y listo</p>

<p> saludos</p>

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<p>hola jaume . no se si este foro sigue anun en pie pues hapasado algo de tiempo el caso es que si tines la oportunidad de poner una maxwell en to rolleiflex hazlo yo la tengo y literalmente es asombroso la cantidad de luz que desarrolla la imagen en la pantalla , el unico rollo es que los de maxwell precision optics trabajan un poco raro en el tema comercial y las formas de pago son bastante arcaicas e inseguras para mi modo de ver pero en cuanto a sus productos son feten para quitarse el sombrero</p>

<p> vivo en figueres so quieres un dia que pases la vienes a ver y listo</p>

<p> saludos</p>

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