Expert 3005 - Problem fully removing antihalation layer

[dan_mclaughlin1]

I'm consistently having trouble processing 8x10 film in my new jobo 3005/CPA2

(with lift). Negs look perfect, except for a streak about a half inch down from the top.

The streak is usually around an inch and a half long, and is located in the center of

neg. The streak will come off when I refix in a tray, but I shouldn't have to do that.

I'm assuming this streak is due to a contact between film and drum, but the expert

drum is supposed to allow the chems to get back there.

 

I've varied the speed, tried different developers (Ilford HC and Rollo Pyro), always

push neg down to bottom of drum with emulsion side facing toward center of drum.

I'm using Ilford HP5 film. I'm ensuring drum is level by using a small spirit level. I

load into a fully dry drum, but did try a wet process once...maybe I should try that

again. I've also recently tried upping the quantities to 1000ml for all chems,

including presoak, and double checked that the fixer wasn't being exhausted by

splitting fix time in half and replacing fix halfway through.

.

Jobo gave me a new drum thinking maybe that was the cause, but still happens Any

ideas? Thanks!!

 

Dan

[jerald_brodkey]

I use this drum and never had this problem. How long is your presoak and how much do you wash in the drum before taking the film out?

[clayh]

Make sure the "U" shape of the film faces out. IOW, the bottom of the "U" is closest to

the center of the drum.

[eric_boutilier_brown1]

Hi, I use the 3005 with HP5+ and Rodinal, and have never had a problem with the antihalation backing. I use a 5 minute pre-soak, and 1000ml of liquid per chemical...wish I had a solution for you, but you seem to be doing everything right.

 

e.

[brian_ellis3]

The streak is the remainder of the antihalation dye and I think you're correct in your assumption that it remains on the film after fixing in the tubes because a portion of the film is staying in contact with the inner wall of the tube. I know how irritating and frustrating it can be when things don't work as they should but as a practical matter this streak isn't important since it will come off in the course of normal fixing in a tray. So I'd just forget about it and use a tray to fix.

 

This streak is considered normal with the BTZS tubes that I use since there's nothing that separates the film from the inner wall of the BTZS tubes. Partly for that reason I think everyone who uses the BTZS tubes fixes in a tray. The streak disappears after about 30 seconds.

 

I think Ilford recommends against a presoak with its films though at one time I used to presoak HP5+ without any apparent adverse effect. A presoak does remove a lot of the antihalation dye so it might help with your problem if it's feasible to load the film in the tubes when the film is wet. A presoak in the tubes wouldn't accomplish anything I don't think because the presoak wouldn't get to the portion of the film that's in contact with the tube any more than the fix is getting to it. I would think that dealing with the problem by tray fixing would be a good bit easier than trying to load wet film in the tubes but perhaps not, I don't use the Jobo tubes.

[david l.]

Dan, Your results are very odd. Over the years I've used a 3005 drum and a CPP-2 to develop well over 1000 sheets of 8x10 T-max 100 and I've never had a problem like the one you've described. I very much doubt a problem with the drum itself. My suggestion....Don't push the film all the way to the bottom of the drum!!! I usually try to leave it about a quarter to half an inch from the bottom. The chemistry needs to flow through the antihalation channels from both sides of the film. It really cant do that if its up tight against the bottom of the drum. And make sure your film covers both channels - a rolled up 8x10 piece of film will leave about a half inch gap between edges. Just make sure the antihaltion channel isn't in the gap. I also use a 5 minute presoak. Hope this helps

[dan_mclaughlin1]

Thanks to everyone for the help. To answer one of the questions, I do always use a 5

minute pre soak. I just tried David's idea of keeping a little space at the bottom of

the drum, and it helped. Out of 3 negatives, only one had the problem, and it was

pretty small. The other thing that I did different was when I first put the drum on

processor, I let it run for a couple of minutes before adding any liquids (in theory,

getting the inside of drum at same temp as liquids.) Would the fact that I never did

that before be a contributing factor?

 

Clay, I will try your approach next to see if I get 100% success. I did try that negative

position a few weeks ago, but I was using different quantities of chems so it's

definitely worth trying again.

 

Thanks again!

[gary_frost1]

Have you tried using HCA in your wash/rinse cycle?

[jerald_brodkey]

I still want to know how long you wash in the JOBO before removing the film. The only time I ever got a stain on a negative in the 3005 happened when a gear came off the JOBO so I couldn't wash the films well before I took them out for the final wash. I usually wash for at least 10 minutes with 4-5 changes of water before removing them for a final wash....

[rob_tucher]

I've very rarely had the problem even with thousands of sheets. Jobo is not like BTZS so it doesn't usually have the sticking problem. But every now and then it does happen for unknown reasons. David L. is right on by suggesting not pushing the film down all the way. Another safeguard is to load dry, and in the dark before putting on the lid, fill all five film slots with water and reach in and break the connection between the film and wall while underwater. Then put on the lid, run the process with a 5 minute presoak, and you won't get the problem.

[dan_mclaughlin1]

Jerald,

 

Sorry I didn't reply. I had a feeling there was another question other than the quantity

question, but couldn't remember. I use the Jobo drum for the rinses, and actually

rinse for 20 minutes elapsed time, changing the water every three minutes.

 

Dan