Can one flash 'do it all'-- Hassy and Nikon?

[Gup]

Hello all,

 

I have just purchased a new 503cw and a Nikon F5. These will replace

the 2 Minoltas that have served for 29 years.

 

My question is can I get by with one flash, or do I buy a D-40 for

the Hassy and an SB-80 for the Nikon?

 

I'm NOT rich, but I have decided to go pro and do some weddings and

portrait work to pay for the new stuff. My passion is actually

landscape and the accompanying travel I get to do.

 

I'm also going to buy a stand and a bare-bulb system for location

portraits and I'm not sure which one is best suited for the job.

 

Any experienced help out there?

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Phil (Gup) Morris

[chris_henry1]

Metz 54 MZ-3 TTL.

[kristian_s_oslash_rensen]

Instead of the D-40 you could get the Sunpak 120J TTL, which aparently is the same unit sold under its manufactors name, rather than the Hasselblad brand. It is cheaper when it is called a sunpak than when it is called a Hasselblad. I cannot say for sure if there are subtle differences apart from the name.

<p>

As a sunpak the flash comes with a detachable foot, that adapts it to be a dedicated flash unit for many different manufactors, simply by substituting the foot for the one that fits the particular camera system. So to use it on a 503cw and an F5 you will need one flash and two feet for it, one for each camera system. I do not know if the flash accepts the same feet when it is sold under the Hasselblad brand.

<p>

Metz and other non-camera makers sells very good flash units with a similar detachable feet system, so they adapt to be dedicated flash units for many different camera systems. The D-40/120J TTL however has that big deep round reflector which gives a different light than the flash units usually seen on 35 mm slrs, so if you are after this kind of light, there are few alternatives to the D-40/120J TTL.

[nick_wilson2]

Good advice above if you want a compact unit, but you might like to consider a Metz hammerhead flash for your purposes. They have been a standard for a long time, for good reason.

 

It might depend on your Nikon use as to how fancy your flash purchase is, as the blad will presumably not support nearly as many functions. Some of the good reviews of the Metz 54 MZ3 have been by people unhappy with Nikon and Canon flashes in some obscure mode (incl. SB 80).

 

Remember you probably have to get an hot shoe adaptor for the blad, which is not a problem with a hammerhead. Allows off camera use, which I think is important for your purposes (except for fill flash).

 

The units are big (big disadvantage often), but powerful enough to allow some light moulding, eg through a softening attachment. Great bounce facility too, which might be lacking in some other flashes.

 

Expensive new, but many seconhand, especially in the 45 series.

 

Hard to go past the Metz name, regardless. You will need two adaptors for TTL function on both cameras, but Metz does make it easy.

 

Plenty of info on http://www.metz.de/1_metz_2000/m_pages_english/main_index_e.php3?link=4&sub=1&linkname=mecablitz.

[Jerry_]

Sounds like a lot of effort that may be a problem during a wedding.

If you plan on shooting 120 film and then switch to the Nikon, the wedding party may not handle the 'wait until I re-configure' the flash for the camera time. Time, often, is at a premium during a wedding.

The ceremony is over -- the pictures need to be get done -- as the reception is the next run-to-event.

[timberwolf1]

You need a used Norman 200b for about $180. You can have 2-3 heads on one unit with a splitter cable(s). The Metz units, Nikon units, etc. are plastic and have limitations. The Norman unit can be bashed around, dropped on concrete, no problem. Most of the newer photographers are wowed by newness, like an automobile show. The Norman 200c or 200b are 200ws units. They have so many features known to event pros, that I cannot list them all. You will need a Stroboframe to use them. This unit has replaceable reflectors, bulbs, batteries and heads. With Nikon, you will use 50-100ws. With Hassy you will use 50-200ws. Flash duration is short. At some point, you ned to appreciate toughness and reliability. They are easy to fix. Timber Borcherding timberborcherding

[timberwolf1]

The Normans can be bare bulb. The unit operates on 12 volt anything. They have a mirror reflector (with dimples) for umbrellas that increases power 2/3rds of a stop to 320ws. Buy a 200b used unit that is working, try the auctions. I have 6 Norman 200b's. The only competitor is Lumedyne. I have a Lumedyne, too.

[Gup]

My thanks to you all!

 

I learn each time I read a thread here.

Any thoughts on just using a stand alone modelling light with strobe, for everything? Which one?

Or is that actually what the bare bulb Norman will do for me?

I will research all these units on the net and then e-bay.

I do prefer the bare bulb to the more common light found in speedlights.

 

Thanks again, Gup Jeffries.