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Interesting Wedding--Please Help


justin_frank

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I've done weddings before, and successfully, but this one has me

wondering. Maybe you can help. I have a wedding coming up in a

planetarium, I've had test shots and showed the couple, they are OK

with them, only problem is, the flash kills the background

(projection). Any tips for lighting will be appreciated, I can use

flash just not constant light. my equipment is 2 Nikon FM2 bodies, 1

Nikon N90, Sunpak 522, Nikon SB-16, Sunpak 344 and an array of stands

and slave triggers. Thanks for your help.

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Don't drag any shutters: don't risk their wedding photos! Take a time exposure, bracketed of that ceiling. Scan the negatives and cut and paste that ceiling into their ceremony or other shots using Photoshop. You cannot "do it all" in one exposure. Be perfectionistic about it; and tell them of the added cost and problem. You'll get respect! Timber Borcherding timberborcherding
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I would suggest going into the current Century: rent a Nikon F5 body and find a good SB-28 speedlight. If done correctly, the flash will illuminate the wedding couple and not 'wash' out the ceiling lights.

You may have to play with the minus and plus side of the flash compensation, but you should be able to live with the prints.

(The F5 does pretty good with candles in the background: the flames are yellow-orange, and the wedding couple have 'flash' from the speedlight.

The same principle should apply to the ceiling *star* light.)

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An automatic strobe will cause uncontrollability problems. You need to learn what power of light you will need for each major distance, and how much light will bounce from 8', 12' white or beige ceiling. This idea of "current century" does not address the problems of toughness, efficiency, flash duration, education, etc. A Norman is modeled after studio flashes in terms of many features. The younger photographers know little about using manual flashes, they need an automatic transmission. The auto in flashes does not account for subject color. The latest models will not save you. You need to know what light does in certain situations; not be blinded or buffered by auto mode. A Norman unit will be able to link several heads via ac wire. You can also put a larger 10" reflector on the head. YOU CAN hook them up to your car battry! Stay away from "gadget photographers" who are only impressed by newness. Drop their flashes on the ground, hit a doorway, bang into a post, their flashes are history. The Norman can be fixed right at the wedding yurself. --the 200b that is. The Normans have an auto head. The Normans are 200ws--The Nikon unit is likely 100ws. The Norman can be pointed in any direction. The potatoe masher units cannot. Norman has a 400ws unit. Don't choose a unit based upon its styling; choose power, toughness, serviceability, accessories, flash duration , battery availability, etc. Don't think it is "old style" Function is more important than the paint job. If you want, you can paint it black.
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Unless you know what the exposure is for the candles, ceiling projection of stars, and other factors, you are stumbling into a situation with your auto strobe that has less of a brain than you do. The candles light will not necessarily "come out" because you use a certain model of strobe. This is cardboard camera thinking. Go do the site and test your ability. When you wash out, you will re-read my suggestion about Photoshop.
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Justin you should really consider the photoshop idea. Use equipment you are familiar with so you can concentrate on the job inhand photographing the wedding couple. Then swap the backgrounds with the correctly exposed ones in photoshop. The more tightly framed shots may not swapping.
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