Jump to content

8x10 Sheets - Ilford Delta 100 vs TMAX 100


lbi115l

Recommended Posts

I've shot only T-MAX 100 Pro in 8x10 up to now. I'm planning a

vacation, and don't have the money for a full box of TMAX. How does

Ilford Delta 100 compare? I've never shot it before in any format.

Just a good, non-biased description of the film will do. Are there

any quirks to it? How does it fare in rotaty processing? D-76 or HC-

110?

 

I intend to shoot a test sheet of two before I go away, but I'd

appreciate some advice before I buy.

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a lot less finicky than TMAX to develop. However, I prefer the FP4 as it is even more forgiving.

 

As for the "look", I find the Delta is reasonably similar to TMAX. When I've used TMAX it seems to have a slightly more contrasty look. A little too much for my taste. But then the Delta still has too much for me as well, except for machinery shots and metal objects. It was explained to me (on this site) that the grains (t-grains?) in the TMAX and Delta are smaller and produce a more defined edge than the "old-style" films, creating an illusion of higher contrast(not sure I buy that, but it sounded good at the time). I find this especially true in contact prints.

 

That said, if you like the look of TMAX I think you'd like the Delta. And again, the hand processing is a bit more forgiving. I use D-76 at 1-1 for Delta and FP4, versus TMAX developer for the TMAX (never got TMAX to look right with D-76. Haven't tried the HC-110, or rotary processing on either of these films.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like it a lot better, Jason. Think you will be very pleasantly surprised.

 

Delta 100 is more panchromatic, with no color bias to get used to. And it doesn't have T-max's annoying habit of blocking up the highlights. Nice, straight-line curve.

 

Have a wonderful trip!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the advice. i think i might try it.

 

I shoot with a barrel lens, so anything over ISO 100 is out of the question.

 

It will be rotary processed.

 

I checked out J&C, maybe I'll think about the Efke PL25.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the old-fashioned metal clips that, you know, look more or less like the clips on "clipboards." They come in many sizes and are found at art stores and stationary stores. Very cheap. They have a tight grasp -- I hang 5x7s, 8x10s and 7x17s by just the eentsiest bit on one corner; string them on a wire (the little handles have holes in them). Very easy and effective. No disadvantage I can think of. -jb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

John - <i>"Delta 100 is more panchromatic, with no color bias to get used to. And it doesn't have T-max's annoying habit of blocking up the highlights. Nice, straight-line curve."</i>

<p>Sounds great. Are there some published charts or graphs on the web or in print, by which we could compare these two films ? I know that Kodak provides them on their site. Does Ilford do the same ?

 

<p>For what it's worth, I have not found a problem with TMax blocking in the highlights. (see <a href="http://www.kenleegallery.com/peonyd.htm" target="_blank">here</a>) Then again, my flatbed scanner, like most, uses the equivalent of a "cold light head" - a diffused light source rather than a condenser/point source. That can make a big difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken, I ran several tests with Photographers' Formulary FX-1, touted as the highest-acutance developer ever formulated. The literature warns that many photographers object to the ultra-sharp, engraving-like quality.

 

I got nice, pleasing results at ASA 100 (very unusual) but none of the special effects I was expecting, even with stand development. The general feeling of this forum was that there is not enough silver in Delta or Tmax for this kind of developer to do its work.

 

I am now into my Rodinal/Calbe R09 @ 1:100 phase of seeking ultimate sharpness. No results to report as yet.

 

That Ilford site has oodles of information, including a table which recommends one of their developers for each effect you are seeking, including maximum sharpness. Until I can show better results with my magic potions, I'd suggest going with information direct from the horse's mouth on their website.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...