moving from Rolleicord to Rolleiflex

[j.a_swan]

I currently use a Rolleicord IV, which I'm considering trading in for

a Rollieflex. I'm not sure which model to go for however, and would

be interested in any advice and opinions. I'm not too concerned with

getting a metered Rolleiflex as I use a handheld meter with

the 'cord. How much should I expect to get for the Rolliecord, and is

it worth making the transition ?

 

thanks

[martino]

J. A.

 

Depending on condition you could get around $100-150 for your Rolleicord.

I recently got a 2.8D Rolleiflex with a Planar lens. No light meter. Even a 2.8C would be fine. I can recommend the Planar and Xenotar lenses which both deliver amazing results. Most 'E' or 'F' would be quite expensive but certainly a good investment in the long run. A dark horse here is the 3.5E which I used to have until it got stolen. Excellent choice if you can afford it and not as expensive as the the top end models. Another cheap option is the the Automat/MX-EVS model. In the end, though make sure the shutter/focusing mechanism and crank arm are in perfect shape. Any repairs on a Rolleiflex are usually expensive . Minor lens scratches do not affect picture quality. Good luck.

 

Martin Reis

[ken_munn]

Usually - though there are no hard and fast rules in the world of old cameras - 2.8s cost more than 3.5s. But unless you are a low light specialist, you'll never need that expensive extra stop. For most subjects you'll want to shoot at f8 or f11 for optimum performance plus d-o-f. So go for the best 3.5 your money will stretch to. And hurry, the prices for good Rolleiflexes seem to be going up every month - in the UK at least.

[mostly sports]

I have a Rolleicord V with the Xenar 3.5, a 2.8F Xenotar and a 3.5F Planar. What you will gain by moving up is much better performance at wider apertures, some speed in handling, and a more versatile viewfinder with a brighter view. Beginning with the "fs' in about 1960, the viewfinder comes off and can be replaced with a prism. At 5.6 the Rolleicord is fair, the Xenotar is excellent. At f/11 I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. I consider the 'cord more reliable, due to the simple mechanism. 'flexes can jam, and when they do, it's $200 minimum repair. Buy an old Rollei and you can easily spend $150 to CLA the shutter, another $150 for the advance, and $75 to calibrate the focus. Add a bright screen or prism for another $125. So a really tuned up 2.8 Rollei can approach $1000, if you buy an old one and go through it. But it's just as good as a $2,500 'Blad, if you're using just the normal lens. It's a personal thing, I happen to love them, but I also have a Mamiya TLR for the different lenses.

[andrew_schank]

I just did exactly what you are thinking about last year. Had a Cord V for 20 years, and enjoyed the fabulous negs it produces, but was always taken with the machanical perfection of the later model Flexes. I picked up a 3.5F Planar on e-bay for a good deal last year. Here is my experience: The previous poster is correct in that when you are finished having the camera gone through so that it will work like new, upgrade the screen, and get a few items like the hood, close up set, etc, somehow you end up with close to $1000 invested. I bought my Cord for $40.00 20 years ago!

 

As far as practical use, my Flex has a perfectly working coupled meter that is very accurate and handy to use. I just have to make sure I point it away from the sky, and/or move in closer to take a meter reading in tough lighting conditions. Even though collectors seem to favor the non meter models, I love having the meter built in, which of course the Cord did not.

 

My Cord must have had a way above averge lens on it, because I do not see a big difference at the larger apertures that other posters claim the Flex will have. Both my camera are incredably sharp at 5.6, and maybe the Flex is slightly better wide open.

 

I'm still getting used to focusing with my left hand on the Flex, and I also noticed my hand held shots were sharper with the Cord. I wonder if its becasue on the Cord my right hand supports the camera while my left hand pushes the release, and that is the opposite on the Flex. I am a righty. On a tripod, the Flex may be a bit sharper, but both are capable of 20 X 20 enlargements.

 

Hope some of this info is helpful.

[wes_almond]

I own a Rolleiflex 3.5e /planar lens and love it!

I would buy this one if you can find it, there are a few on ebay now!

really cheap. The only real diffence between the 3.5E and the F model

is the light meter and since you don't care for build in meters this would work perfect for you. To be honest I would keep the cord. Its nice to have a backup plus you'll miss your old friend if you sell it.