Selenium toner spotting - HELP!

[steve_feldman2]

I've really messed up. Big Time.

 

This evening I made several b & w prints. Plain water wash for 20

min. Then immersed in selenium. Then got called away on

an "emergency" phone call. Twenty minutes later I realized that my

prints were still in the toner.

 

AAARRRRGGGGHHH!!! I said to myself and anyone in ear shot for half a

mile around. All of the prints are unevenly tone and spotty. Brown-

purple stains dappled all over my images.

 

AAARRRRGGGGHHH!!! Again.

 

The question to this forum (I'll also post to the LF forum, where I

also read and post) is - Can these prints be salvaged? Can a

treatment with any other photo chemical hide or eliminated the dapple

of brown/purple? A light wash in ferricynide? Sepia for a split tone

effect?

 

FWIW here are the specs:

 

Gekko RC VC paper.

 

Fixed ten min.

 

Washed for twenty min. in Zone VI washer.

 

Selenium toned for twenty min (AAARRRRGGGGHHH!!! Again.)

 

Washed again for twenty min.

 

Currently holding in water-filled washer.

 

Help please someone.

 

Thanks.

 

-Steve

[david_lazarus]

I would say NO. I think your done. The one thing about toning that is great that it's close to lasting forever. But I hope I am wrong.....

D.

[photojoe]

<b>Gekko RC VC paper. </b>

 

This may be your problem. Not the greatest photo paper out there. I wasted alot of time with this material. The Mitsu/Gekko is great for photo 101 students (dirt cheap) but is lacking in consistancy required for advanced users.

 

You might also be looking at a problem where the paper floated up to the surface of the toner and recieved uneven toning due to uneven exposure. You can determine if this is the problem by getting the pring back into the toner and making sure it stays completely under the surface. I've had similar problems with workprints that were left in a water bath, but had floated to the surface, and thus didn't get a good wash in some spots.

[ken_schroeder]

Steve, I'm curious...Your fix and wash time seem very long to me for RC paper. I usually fix RC for 30 seconds to a minute and then wash for several minutes. I don't tone it, although I have added benzitriozol (spelling?--I know that word is not in spellcheck!) to cool the print color somewhat. I use RC for proofing and reproduction prints. You obviously put a lot of care in your prints. Why not use fiber (dare I say real paper)? I believe you will find it is more satisfying to work with, and more responsive to developer and tone changes.

 

I know it's probably an outdated notion with today's RC technology, but many of us tend to think of RC as temporary paper.

[donald_miller1]

I agree that the fixing time seems excessive. My procedure with FB paper is to fix twice. After I pull my prints from the second fix then I go directly to the Selenium toner, then to the hypo clearing agent and then to the wash. I used to wash between the final fix and the selenium toner but also experienced uneven toning. It is important to note that rapid selenium toner contains thiosulfate which is the primary ingredient in fixer whether it be sodium or ammonium thiosulfate. So washing and toning will leave a print with fixer still on the print surface. Whereas if one fixes, tones, hypo clears, and washes... the print is left free of chemical.

[alex_hawley]

Don't know of anything that can reverse selenium toning. A four minute wash is usually adequate for RC papers. If you want a good inexpensive RC (or FB) paper, try Adorama. Some say its relabled Ilford, but I've found slight differences. Its a good 1/2 stop faster and tones differently that Ilford does. Still very close though. I use it for trial prints. When I'm finally satisfied, I shift over to Ilford, usually only having to lengthen the exposure a few seconds.

[steve_feldman2]

Many thanks to all respondants. Ah well, back to the darkroom. A bad day printing photographs is better than your best day at work.

 

FWIW - I've used many papers over the years. Settled on Seagull graded FB for a long period until it was discontinued. Resisted VC papers until the logic of one box of VC over several boxes of graded was finally hitting home. Resisted RC papers, mosting due to the excessive shine of the glossy surface. Then came upon the Gekko brand. Yes, it really is the least expensive (dare I say, cheap) VC RC paper I've ever found. But I kinda like it. Deep black color with very bright white base. The matte surface is very matte. Good reaction to filters on a cold light head. Split filter printing also react well.

 

What can I say.

 

Thanks again.

 

-S.

[steve_feldman2]

Problem solved. Thanks again to all.

 

I went back to the sceen of the indignities. Re-printed the offending images. And this time followed your expert advice. And, of course, it all worked out fine.

 

Fixed for 2 min. No wash, no rinse. Just drip off the excess fixer. Five minute in selenium, with agitation. Drip off excess and into the wash for 5 min.

 

No color change. No spotting/motteling.

 

Very nice.

 

BTW, I still like the paper.