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Mid-roll change/reload F-100


moses_kumar

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First, you'll have to get the leader out. According to what I've read in this and other forums, Nikon can program your F100 to leave the leader out on rewind. If you don't want to get that done, you'll need a film leader retrieval tool ... and time to practice with it, IMHO. Others have written that these tools are easy to use, and I think they are, too ... but my first 30 minutes with mine were frustrating. After that, I got the hang of it.

 

Now that the leader's out, you want to advance to where you left off in the previous roll. According to Nikon support, you flip the focus mode selector on the front of the camera to M, manual and then just use the shutter release to move up to the frame you want. Of course, the lens must be totally covered.

 

I worried about fogging the film, but this hasn't happened to me yet, although I've only done the mid-roll change a few times. To be on the safe side, I also selected the fastest shutter speed and smallest aperture, and put the lens with cap in a black bag. Overkill, perhaps.

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I�ll be in the minority but I don�t think reloading film is worth the trouble. I recommend getting a second or third camera body even for a serious hobbyist. Sometimes you have to sacrifice for photography. One could have a more expensive habit :)

 

You can use a "Dot Line Corp. Film Leader Retriever" part no. LT-LP6 (or similar) to retrieve the film leader. I just happen to have a spare and unopened one in the desk drawer beside me. I don�t memorize these facts. With practice one can retrieve leaders almost every time, sound and touch help greatly. Mistakes can scratch film if the film is cinched by winding too tightly.

 

After removing the film and retrieving the leader mark the leader with a pencil so you know how many frames to skip when reloading. Skip an extra frame for two to ensure that you don�t double expose frames. When reloading cover the lens with a totally opaque lens cap and cover the eyepiece with your hand. Advance the film as necessary in Manual Mode Only and use a high shutter speed. Some commercial processor may cut the film incorrectly destroying all frames following the point of reload.

 

I pull film leaders for processing as I find it easier and safer to load stainless steel reels from the cassette.

 

Hope this helps,

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I use 3 different C-41 films, and 5 different E-6 films to match subject and light. Eight cameras? Right. ;-)

 

I try to avoid using the leader pullers but I do carry one. I agree that the first 30 minutes are the worst. But you loose nothing by reprogramming the F100 to leave the leader out. If you want to wind it in, just press rewind a second time and it should finish it.

 

Leave 1-2 frames extra so that you don't get a composite. I don't think it's a terribly good idea to do very many reloads on a single roll of film as the probability of surface scratches may increase if you're not careful.

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<em>"Eight cameras? Right. ;-)" --Ilkka Nissila<br>

</em><br>

LOL, I own nine SLR(s). My current Nikon system dates from 1978 to 2003. Id have ten but in a moment of guilt gave an FM2 (early) to a nearby school. They need not all be new, top of the line SLR($). A clean used FE or Nikkormat FT3 makes a great second camera.<br>

<br>

I hate trading in cameras and lenses but like buying what others have traded in at a substantial loss. Ive come to the point that Id almost rather drop a camera or lens into the trash than accept a trade-in. Camera stores cant give market value, make a profit and give a 30 day warrantee on resale so I dont blame them.<br>

<br>

I recommend keeping one camera loaded with color negatives, perhaps ISO 200. Then shoot full rolls with the other camera(s) so they are usually empty at the end of the day. Just think how bad it could be if you were an Ultra Zone Head and needed 5 SLR(s) just for one B&W film? N-1, 2, +1, 2, etc.

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