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Rolleiflex - Xenotar lens question


dave92270

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Hello experts,

 

I have a question regarding the lens quality on the 1958 TLR

Rolleiflex I'm planning to purchase; would appreciate any advice on

this before I'll buy it; this particular model comes with Schneider

Xenotar 3.5 lens, is it any good?

 

(I already own much older Rolleiflex (a pre-war model, think with

Tessar lens; don't have the camera on hand now to verify), but this

camera has mechanical problems (film advance & shutter), so I'm

looking for the replacement... I was happy with the camera and it's

lens as well - not perfect, but sufficient for my needs).

 

If anyone could recommend a better TLR, I wouldn't mind advice on

that (beside the mentioned Rolleflex, I used to have more modern

Rolleicord which I really liked, and 60's Flexaret which was OK as

well). All these cameras were somehow equal, but Rolleicord most

reliable & with sharper optics if I recall it right.

 

Anyway, thx in advance for advice on the Schneider Xenotar 3.5

equipped model.

 

dave

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The Xenotar is apparently a very good lens. In his book on collecting classic cameras, Ivor Matanle says he's never noticed any difference between the Xenotar and the Planar.

 

Apparently, the Xenotar equipped camera enjoys a lower price than those equipped with Planars because the neck jewellery crowd have got it into their heads that the Planar is better.

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Harvey is absolute right. I have two 3.5F, one with Xenotar and one with Planar, there is no difference in practice. I prefer the f3.5 models to the f2.8 models because they are not so prone to flare. A Rolleiflex with a f3.5 Xenotar is a wonderful machine, but check everything carefully. Look through the lens, check all shutter times, buy a cheap roll of film and check the film transport. The lens board should be parallel to the film plane, check it at infinity and while moving the distance to one meter. Everything should run smooth!

In good working condition it's an excellent camera with an excellent lens and (as user) I would only rate the 2.8 GX higher

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Thanks for fast reply; if the camera will be available, I'll try to get it then... Possibly my biggest concern was the experienced lens corner sharpness issue (more visible at certain appertures), which was a bit problem on 2 out of 3 of my previous TLR's; if the Xenotar 3.5 is considered to be generally good lens, I should be probably happy with it.

 

Btw, I very recently purchased a decent digital camera, but quickly realized that even at 5megapixel this won't be most likely a match to a medium format film for certain tasks and larger prints, so decided to get relatively inexpensive TLR once again.

 

thx again for your advices

dave

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Actually, most SERIOUS Rollei users think that the f3.5 Xenotar is the BEST lens you can get on a Rolleiflex for absolute performance. The Planar is just as sharp, and there are f2.8 versions that are faster and otherwise ALMOST as good (and sell for more money), but for the combination of resolution, contrast, freedom from flare, and bokeh, the f3.5 Schneider Xenotar is probably the best lens that was ever made for Rollei TLRs. It will be a noticeable improvement on your current Zeiss Tessar at the faster apertures.

 

And Rolleiflexes are definitely superior to Rolleicords.

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Thx for reply Douglas G too...

 

I've got actually one more question; could anyone recommend a dependable retailer who ships in the US and who sells the TLR Rollei's (in full working condition and recently checked-serviced)? I looked a few reputable stores, but they don't carry any (except approx. $3000 anniversary edition model at Adorama).

 

I don't know exactly how much to spend on it neither, was thinking that some $300-$400 should provide me with a good one hopefully... possibly a 50's-60's model, so the wear and condition would be acceptable. As I said, I want to use it frequently, not as collector's item or 1-2 occasional shots once a while.

 

I'll go to check the local retail stores first though (in San Jose & Palo Alto), didn't have the time to do so yet, but expecting fairly higher prices there, someone pls correct me if I'm wrong.

 

thx for advice on that

 

dave

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Well for $300-400, you won't find a dealer-checked-out and warranteed Rolleiflex with a Xenotar lens. You could probably get one from the early-mid '50s with a Zeiss Tessar or Schneider Xenar lens for that price. With a Xenotar, in ready to use condition, from a dealer, you are looking at $550-600 minimum. Below $400 would be an very good *bay auction price for a good quality mid-50s vintage Rolleiflex TLR with a Xenotar Lens. BTW, check out the numerous archived posts in the Medium Format forum.

 

If your budget is really $300-400, and you are looking to truly use the camera on a serious basis, what I would do is this:

 

Get either a Yashica Mat-124 or a Minolta Autocord (figure $125-150 for the camera in very nice condition, but may need a shutter overhaul), and get it professionally CLA'd and have the shutter overhauled, and have a Maxwell Brilliant-Matte Focusing Screen put in. Figure $100 for the CLA, and $125 for the focusing Screen.

 

To get one of the better Rolleiflex cameras, in known good condition from a Dealer would be at least $500. and I would still STRONGLY recommend getting the Maxwell bright screen installed, and while you are at it, a CLA with shutter job wouldn't hurt for any 40-50 year old camera.

 

Mark Hansen, who posts on the Medium Format board, does this work as a hobby/part time job, and I'm sure he'd have something that he'd be willing to sell you with a warranty.

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Thx for detailed info on that, Douglas.

 

I'm not overly oriented in the current prices of Rollei's, and so $300-400 was rather my rough estimate....

 

I actually checked the YashicaMat124's (eBay) and considered it first, but then I couldn't find anything in my (estimated, and this time similar to yours) range around $150; any nice ones jumped quickly over $250... Maybe just a bad week, but well I figured if I should pay $250-300 for YashicaMat, I may as well just get another Rollei for only a hundred bucks or so more.

 

I think I've seen a Xenotar Rollei in supposedly great condition(2002 CLA), with Maxwell Brilliant-Matte Focusing Screen, for around what you mentioned above, maybe I should try to bid on that one then.

 

If I'll not find anything there or in local stores, I might try to contact the guy (Mark Hansen) as you suggested...

 

Since the camera will obviously cost more then I thought, I may need to wait a month or two.

 

thx again

 

regards

dave

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FYI, The key with Yashicas is to get a Mat-124, NOT a Mat-124G

 

The Mat-124G is the later model, but it is not improved, rather it is cost reduced. I just sold ONE of my Really NICE Mat-124s on ebay for $170 (because I just got a Rollei). Mat-124G models tend to sell for around $200, whereas Mat-124 tend to sell for $100-170, but they are better cameras when well kept.

 

The reality is, you could get a very useable Yashica or Autocord for well under $200 if you got lucky and shopped diligently. But you should STILL plan on upgrading the focusing screen on ANY of these older TLRs, for ~ $125 more, to make them really useful. That's true with a $400 Rollei, OR with a $150 Yashica or Minolta.

 

I am VERY skeptical that you could find a Rolleiflex in GOOD WORKING shape, with both a Xenotar lens, and a Maxwell Bright Matte Screen for $400 from someone who knew what they had and what it was worth - On ebay, if knowledgeably described, that's a $600 camera minimum.

 

$400 with a Maxwell Screen WOULD be reasonable if it was a Schneider Xenar or Zeiss Tessar lens.

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If the camera is 40 years old; probably the mirror is dirty. Having the mirror cleaned properly; by a trained person; WILL brighen up the viewfinder ALOT. Many times the "new view finder screen gambit" also involves a "free mirror cleaning"; thus a good portion of the "new brightness" is just due to the cleaning of the mirror for the viewing lens. This is my experience with a 1937 and 162 Rolleiflex; and a 1950's Rolleicord. A new screen ALWAYS is brighter on a 1958 model; just like replacing the original shocks on a 1958 car ALWAYS gives a firmer ride. Automobile aftermarket shocks are ALWAYS stiffer that factory shocks; that way one always feels they should have been replaced. (according to my marketing neighbor; around 15 mile road in Detroit several decades ago).<BR><BR>The mirrors are a first surface mirror; easy to goof up; easy to clean if you already clean first surface mirrors for one's telescope
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Thanks for good info too, Kelly.

 

Btw, I found a Xenotar model (2.8D - approx. 1956) on eBay, price reasonable $300 so far (ends tomorrow) , supposedly an excellent & working condition (but no extras); I will possibly try to bid on that one and see how the auction will go - requested an additional info from the seller first.

 

dave

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  • 3 months later...

I'm quite interested in this issue of corner sharpness. I have a 3.5E2 Xenotar with a lens that is literally brand new -- I purchased a NOS (New Old Stock) lens, and had Marflex install it -- and even *it* has soft corners until f8 (and they become truly sharp only at f11). In the center and at the edges the lens is astonishingly sharp, even wide open. And the contrast is phenomenal throughout the range. Is this corner issue simply typical of the 3.5 Xenotars and Planars? I've never seen it with the 2.8 lenses -- and I don't think I've ever seen a 3.5 without it.

 

Anyone out there have a 3.5 Xenotar/Planar which is sharp in the corners at f3.5 or f5.6?

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