Hockey Pictures

[scott_currie1]

A friend has asked me to take pictures of the hockey team he

coaches, some action shots as well as stills while each player

accepts their medals.

 

I dont have any exp taking pictures in hockey arenas and I was

hoping others who have could help me out.

 

I will not be able to use flash for the action shots but will be

able to use it for the still shots.

 

My camera gear includes: EOS-630, EOS ELAN-7, 50mm1.8, 100mm2.8 USM

macro, 20mm-35mm 3.5-4.5, 28mm-105mm 3.5-4.5, 70mm-210mm 3.5-4.5,

100mm-300mm 4.5-5.6, 420EX flash, tripod and monopod.

 

Any advise on which body and lenses as well as program settings

would be a gear help for me and thanks in advance. Would program

mode meter corretly for me? I understand shotting pictures on ice in

areas can be tricky.....

 

Scott Currie

[scott_currie1]

Also I would like to know what would be the best film speed to use. Thanks again.

 

Scott Currie

[brambor]

1) Be aware of how the flash bounces off the plexiglass. It really tends to screw the pictures even if you point the flash towards the ceiling. The best is to point the camera somehow so that the plexiglass is not in the picture (wall behind the benches or closer zoom...)

 

2) Use tripod whenever you can. With your 2 cameras the ideal setting would be tripod and second camera in hand for other opportunity pictures. If you use the 100-300mm the tripod will help tremendously.

 

3) Get low grain 800 film and shoot action photos on continuous setting with the highest possible shutter speed with respect to your lens. 3-6 subsequent shots for each take are a good idea. If you use flash I would protably go with slower film as it might overexpose the picture too much. Also a lot of red eyes happen during close up flash photography on the ice. I shoot the whole team and individual photos without a flash and it comes out great but not all rinks are the same. Our rink is very bright.

 

4) Don't get suckered into too many faceoff shots unless you are able to zoom all the way to the player(s) facial expressions.

 

5) Don't take too many pictures where some of the players are with their backs to the camera. It happens more often than you think especially as they fight for the puck near the boards.

 

6) For team shots I used 20-35 and 35-105 and my best photos came out at 35mm.

 

7) Make sure you get the medal picture shot when a handshake is exchanged. The facial expressions are great at that moment.

 

8) If you can, go to the same rink and shoot some test rolls before the actual event. It will help you find the best spots and evaluate your film and flash choices.

[kelly_flanigan1]

Scott; I have shot alot of hockey photos; but none with a autofocus slr. I'll comment on metering and film here. The several rinks I vist here are about 1/250 @F2.8 with asa 800 color print film. I like the 4 layer fuji products; which greatly help with weird lighting spectrums. <BR><BR>The ice will fake off your meter; since it is too white; rather than grey. Either dial in +1 stop extra exposure; or do the same my setting the iso dial to 400; for 800 film. Or just use a manually dialed in exposure. When I'm at one spot shooting photos; I use the same exposure.<href=" http://www.camera.canon.com.my/photography/art/art18/"><b>Experiment with the exposure; meters and ice vary!</b></a><BR><BR>Of your lenses; try the 100mm 2.8 USM macro because it is faster and longer than 50mm. And try the 70mm-210mm 3.5-4.5, 100mm-300mm 4.5-5.6, these are slow at the long end; but might be ok. <BR><BR>Here the lighting is one half during amateur hockey versus the pro games; they only turn on one set of lights. Amatuer hockey is here requires about 1 to 1 1/2 stops more exposure; but one can freely roam around and find a good spot for photos. <BR><BR>I have never used a tripod or monopod at a hockey game; maybe it might help with fatigue if a long lens is used. The newspaper uses them sometimes when they are way up the arena; and use a fast F2.8 long zoom with a AF slr. Here they gets shots not looking thru glass.<BR><BR> M3 105mm F2.5<IMG SRC=http://www.ezshots.com/members/tripods/images/tripods-351.jpg>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<a href="http://www.camera.canon.com.my/photography/art/art18/">metering types</a>

[kelly_flanigan1]

You can sometimes shoot practice photos and tests when the teams practice; but if you are a spy for the other team you may get the boot! Lighting may or may not be the same. Keep a notebook; and document some exposures; and look up and document what lights are on.

[steve_dunn2]

<p>I can't offer a wealth of experience, only having shot hockey on one occasion. I used an Elan II, 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS USM, and 100-300 f/4.5-5.6 USM, along with a 380EX flash (used for fill).</p>

 

<p>I was near center ice. The 28-135 wasn't long enough for action at the ends of the ice; the 100-300 wasn't wide enough for action roughly between the blue lines. I decided that if I ever did it again, I'd rent a 70-200/2.8. So if I had your lens collection, I'd count on the 70-210 for action shots.</p>

 

<p>The arena I was in was not terribly well lit. My slow lenses didn't help (another reason I'd use a 70-200/2.8 next time). I ended up shooting Supra 800, rated EI 3200 and pushed two stops. That was shooting at f/5.6 (set manually, so that I didn't have to worry about the variable apertures of my lenses) and, from memory, somewhere around 1/125-1/250 - more on that later.</p>

 

<p>I wouldn't trust the camera's meter during action. The amount of ice in the frame will vary depending on how tightly you zoom in and how many players are in the thick of things. Ditto for the boards, which are probably mostly white with some ads on them. With large and variable amounts of white in the scene, the meter will tend to underexpose by a variable and potentially large amount.</p>

 

<p>I used the partial meter to check how bright the ice was at several spots. It varied a bit, but not dramatically. I noted the meter readings, which would result in the ice being rendered as a medium gray (and the players a couple of stops underexposed), and set an exposure in M that was about two stops over that, to bring the players somewhere around mid-tone and make the ice lighter. I'm not saying this is perfect, or even necessarily the best way, but it worked for me; the exposures were reasonably consistent from one frame to another, and all were quite printable.</p>

 

<p>I'm not familiar with the features of the EOS 630, but I do know that its AF system is about a decade older than that of the Elan 7, and there have been substantial advances in AF speed over the years. I'd be surprised if the Elan 7's AF system weren't substantially quicker. So I'd think the Elan 7 would be the better choice for action.</p>

 

<p>Hope that helps!</p>

[peter_luvaas]

Scott,

 

I shot about 40 hockey games for youth teams this season. I use a 400 2.8IS with an EOS 3 on a monopod along with a 70-200 2.8IS on an Elan 7 handheld.

 

The light in most of the rinks I photographed was terrible. Along with poor light, the quality of light varies throughout the rink. I would definitely check out the rink beforehand to find the areas with the best light. Another problem is the type of light. By experimenting ahead of time you can determine if you are going to get a bad color cast from flourescent, etc.

 

My experience has been that 1600 film does not produce acceptable pics in this situation. I personally use Fuji Press 800. I develop my pictures for sale to customers at Costco. I am not able to have the film pushed etc. there.

 

I shoot near one goal with the 70-200 and cover the rest of the rink with the 400. I take my pics very tight most of the time, which helps reduce exposure problems caused by the ice. Personally I shoot at aperture priority wide open. I find I need as much light as I can get. Unless you have a nicely lit rink, I don't think you will be able to get sharp action pics with your 3.5+ lenses.

 

If possible, I would recommend renting a 300 or 400 2.8 etc. to get tight shots of the ceremonies along with more distant action shots.

 

At some arenas I can shoot over the glass. Take this into consideration when deciding on what glass to use.

 

As you know, hockey is a very quick sport to photograph. I notice a difinite shutter lag between my 3 and Elan 7. Take as many practice shots as you can before taking them for your friend.

 

Hope some of this is helpful.

[scott_currie1]

I want to say thanks for all the great info you guys have given me. One morre thing I would like to add is that I will be allowed to be right on the ice close up when the players accept their medals. Would the 50mm and flash be good for this part?

 

Thanks again.

 

Scott

[brambor]

You may not need a flash at all if you use 800mm and shutter speed of 60 or even 90 depending on the brightness of the rink.

[kelly_flanigan1]

For the medal photos a tripod or flash can work wonders.<BR> Walking up on the ice with alot of stuff can be dangerous. Some shoes will grip alot better than others on the ice. Usually the awards stuff here is after the game; but before the ice is resurfaced/Zambonied.<BR><BR> In pregame awards; like when a "special person" drops the puck; the ice maybe just resurfaced; smooth still slightly wet and and difficult to walk on. (ie bust the ass mode )They usually roll out a carpet for the "special person" to drop the puck photo; but the photographer(9) have no carpet.....