What developing times for delta3200 using xtol

[monica_alonso]

What are good times to develop bw delta 3200 using Kodak xtol ?

Indoor concert lighting and no flash f2 1/500 

[conrad_hoffman]

Might try here- https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

Not a combination I've ever used, but the MDC is usually pretty good.

[monica_alonso]

3 hours ago, conrad_hoffman said:

Might try here- https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

Not a combination I've ever used, but the MDC is usually pretty good.

Yea I checked that chart but I am worrisome about the time they put which is 7 min the same amount of time I use for tmax400 and for illford hp5 , I have read peoples responses on forums etc that day 20min , etc a drastic difference I’m not sure what’s accurate I haven’t developed 3200 before also do you know what it means when they say stock vs 1:1 ratio ?

[za33photo]

You might want to look at the App. "Massive Dev Chart Timer" , it can be found on the Google Play Store , it costs about $10.

The App. is written by Digitaltruth Photo Ltd.

Hope this helps.

Oops , I see that this has already been suggested.

 

Edited November 12, 2022 by za33photo

[AJG]

14 hours ago, monica_alonso said:

Yea I checked that chart but I am worrisome about the time they put which is 7 min the same amount of time I use for tmax400 and for illford hp5 , I have read peoples responses on forums etc that day 20min , etc a drastic difference I’m not sure what’s accurate I haven’t developed 3200 before also do you know what it means when they say stock vs 1:1 ratio ?

For many developers you make a stock solution and then dilute it with water to make the working solution that you use for a particular batch of film that you are developing.  It is common to use D-76 (for example) diluted 1:1 with water as a single use developer that is discarded after processing your film.  Times for a diluted solution will be longer than when using a stock solution without diluting it. I am not familiar with X tol, but there is some "internet wisdom" about it suddenly failing to work after some time in storage. I have used Kodak HC-110 for many years, mostly diluted 1:31 from the liquid stock solution that it is sold as.  Among other good qualities is that it keeps extremely well. 

[monica_alonso]

18 hours ago, conrad_hoffman said:

Might try here- https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

Not a combination I've ever used, but the MDC is usually pretty good.

Yea I checked that chart but I am worrysum 

 

1 hour ago, AJG said:

For many developers you make a stock solution and then dilute it with water to make the working solution that you use for a particular batch of film that you are developing.  It is common to use D-76 (for example) diluted 1:1 with water as a single use developer that is discarded after processing your film.  Times for a diluted solution will be longer than when using a stock solution without diluting it. I am not familiar with X tol, but there is some "internet wisdom" about it suddenly failing to work after some time in storage. I have used Kodak HC-110 for many years, mostly diluted 1:31 from the liquid stock solution that it is sold as.  Among other good qualities is that it keeps extremely well. 

The xtol is diluted it’s not straight . I looked up some suggestions and they are just all over the place from the chart saying 7min to people saying 20-30min the differences are extreme not sure what to do 

[AJG]

People suggesting long developing times are probably pushing the film to gain extra speed.  They aren't getting more sensitivity, they are just getting more contrast and larger grain, but if they like the results I'm not about to argue with them.  Be aware that developing times vary with temperature as well.  The warmer the developer the shorter the developing time should be, other things being equal.  Some of those short times you're seeing may be at higher temperatures.  

[monica_alonso]

Yea makes sense , the temperature  on my chemicals are on the lower side so I’ll just shoot for higher developing time . What about for stop bath does that increase also ? I usually do 30 seconds when developing tmax 400 . And fixer I’ve heard I could extend also which I do around 6-7min  

[JDMvW]

Long ago and far in time, I may have used some developer other than D-76. It still seems to work well enough for me. After development, for the last 15 years or so, I scan the negatives. I don't worry much about temperature.

[AJG]

3 hours ago, monica_alonso said:

Yea makes sense , the temperature  on my chemicals are on the lower side so I’ll just shoot for higher developing time . What about for stop bath does that increase also ? I usually do 30 seconds when developing tmax 400 . And fixer I’ve heard I could extend also which I do around 6-7min  

What temperature are you currently using?  Stop bath and fixer usually work well enough between 65 and 75 degrees F. not to worry about exact times.  Be aware that much below 60 F. that fixer may not work that well.  What fixer are you using?  Kodak Rapid Fixer and other ammonium thiosulfate fixers shouldn't need 6-7 minutes at 68 F. if they are fresh enough. For sodium thiosulphate fixers 6-7 minutes may not be long enough although it should be if the fixer its fresh.

[SCL]

Generally try to closely approximate stop bath and fixer temps to that of the developer...likewise the final rinse. The reason is to avoid reticulation in the film which will definitely spoil your images.

[maris_rusis]

I shoot a lot of 120 format Delta 3200 rated at E.I. = 1000 which is about its true "non-pushed" speed.
Development in my darkroom is via Replenished Xtol. Development time is adjusted according to the temperature of the developer, fixer, and wash water which should be all the same. Recent examples that worked well here include:
4 minutes 10 seconds at 30 Celcius
11 minutes 15 seconds at 20 Celcius
18 minutes at 15 Celcius

I must say that the development of Delta 3200, a low contrast film, is not particularly critical, say +/- 10%. What is critical is adequate exposure or even a bit more.
Delta 3200 is often used for dark subjects which tend to be ungenerous in delivering useful shadow detail.

[conrad_hoffman]

People have developed film at every temperature between freezing and having the emulsion melt off. I've always stuck to 68F, but if you look at the preferred process recommendation (the bold print) you'll see some developers are best used at some other temperature, like 72F. I did find somewhat better results using the PPR, though it's not a huge deal.

[glen_h]

The official data sheet is here:

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1913/product/682/

Some years ago, I bought some (not many) rolls of TMZ and Delta 3200.

For TMZ, the highest EI values are for TMax, TMaxRS and Xtol.

Note also that there are times for 20C and 24C.  Because of the long times

that are needed for the higher EI values, they suggest the 24C times.

As noted earlier, the official ISO speed is closer to 1000.

Because of the shape of the curves, you do a little better than might

be expected with the push times.

 

This picture is on TMax3200 (TMZ) by moonlight, developed at the EI 25000 time.

I believe it is 1s and f/3.5, as I didn't have a cable release to do longer times.

 

 

[glen_h]

11 minutes ago, conrad_hoffman said:

People have developed film at every temperature between freezing and having the emulsion melt off. I've always stuck to 68F, but if you look at the preferred process recommendation (the bold print) you'll see some developers are best used at some other temperature, like 72F. I did find somewhat better results using the PPR, though it's not a huge deal.

I believe Delta 3200 is hardened to give a suggested 24C/75F development.

 Otherwise the times are too long, and people get tired of doing it.

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1913/product/682/