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Nikon f2 film advance battery on lever not working


Harrisonlittrell

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i’ve got a nikon f2 photomatic and the film advance lever (which doubles as the “on” trigger for the light meter) is loose, it doesn’t stay after it extends over the red button, it just falls back to place. i’m also finding that the light meter is staying on and draining the battery, any ideas on what could be the issue, and how it might be repaired?

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Agree with Gary and Rick. The F2 body is densely packed full of gears and wiring that runs from the battery box in the base to the advance/on off switch.

No knowledge and opening an F2 = disaster that'll run you even more to have a repairman eventually have to rescue you from.

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3 hours ago, Greg M said:

Agree with Gary and Rick. The F2 body is densely packed full of gears and wiring that runs from the battery box in the base to the advance/on off switch.

No knowledge and opening an F2 = disaster that'll run you even more to have a repairman eventually have to rescue you from.

Units in excellent condition are available in eBay for about $100 or even less.  If you still want shoot film with this camera, replacing it may be a good idea.

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On 11/2/2022 at 8:33 PM, Greg M said:

Agree with Gary and Rick. The F2 body is densely packed full of gears and wiring that runs from the battery box in the base to the advance/on off switch.

No knowledge and opening an F2 = disaster that'll run you even more to have a repairman eventually have to rescue you from.

These Schematics Offer an Exploded View of Old Nikon SLR Cameras | PetaPixel

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Having extensively stripped down an F2, there's nothing at the top end that could make the wind-on lever go floppy. The trouble is most likely under the bottom-plate where the electrical switch is located. The bottom plate removes easily, allowing visual inspection of the switch contacts and the cam that operates them. Whether the problem is easily fixed can then be ascertained. It might be anything from a simple loose screw to a broken spring or support plate. Or prior tampering by a previous owner. Doesn't hurt to look, since it's only a matter of removing a couple of screws to get the baseplate off. There are no spring-loaded parts underneath it to fly apart. 

Unfortunately the exploded diagram posted above doesn't show the underside of the camera in sufficient detail to be of much use. But the switch mechanism is pretty obvious once exposed. 

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On 11/1/2022 at 9:08 PM, Harrisonlittrell said:

i’ve got a nikon f2 photomatic and the film advance lever (which doubles as the “on” trigger for the light meter) is loose, it doesn’t stay after it extends over the red button, it just falls back to place. i’m also finding that the light meter is staying on and draining the battery, any ideas on what could be the issue, and how it might be repaired?

Any repair tech, who has been in business during the film days, should be able to work on an F2. No need to be a specialist, just a good reputation is fine.

Avoiding those whose names everyone repeats on the Internet will likely yield shorter wait and lower price. Ask around in your local area.

If you like the camera and if it is in presentable condition it is better to spend a few hundred $ on a repair than a similar amount on another camera with possible unknown defects.

You will not recoup the repair costs if you resell, but this is a hobby, not a source of income.

 

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Niels
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  • 2 months later...

As a footnote to the above excellent advice, those new to camera tinkering and DIY projects should be aware the Nikon F2 baseplate has one glaring "gotcha" feature that can make opening the bottom annoyingly difficult.  The always-exposed motor drive coupling (see left side in pic) defies easy removal if you do not have an appropriate tool (and it is alarmingly easy for even the correct tool to slip and seriously scratch the baseplate). The motor drive coupling wheel prevents the baseplate from coming off despite previously removing all baseplate edge screws and the door latch handle. It is held in place by a dual pinhead screw: this is very tiny and usually frozen solid with 40+ year old Loctite thread glue. Unscrewing it requires either the exact precision screwdriver or a decent substitute. The two pinholes are quite small and shallow, the turning force needed to break the Loctite seal is strong enough that any makeshift tool easily slips from the tiny holes and scratches the finish of the screwhead, the coupler, and if you're really unlucky the baseplate. Work slowly and carefully!

 

Nikon F2 MD Clutch.jpg

Edited by orsetto
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I've seen many posts reporting success with the solder gun trick for loosening Loctite afflicted screws on old Nikon gear (esp lenses), but it has never worked for me. Properly fitting tools are the most helpful solution (i.e., use true Japanese JIS cross head screwdrivers vs ordinary Phillips jeweler screwdrivers). I eventually filed down an ancient brass mini pliers  to needle nose, and use those for the occasional pinhead screws. This works, but after a couple mishaps on beater F2 bodies I learned to go very slow with steadily increasing turn pressure (stopping and starting again if I feel the tool beginning to slip). Ideally one would obtain a fixed dual-pin screwdriver of matching size, but they weren't readily available when I was looking years ago.

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On 1/6/2023 at 7:13 AM, orsetto said:

Ideally one would obtain a fixed dual-pin screwdriver of matching size, but they weren't readily available when I was looking years ago.

It's been a while, and I forgot about the motorwind coupling. Doh! 

However. A tool is easily made by snipping the head off a dressmaker's pin, heating it in the middle to reduce its hardness and bending it into a U shape whose ends fit into the holes. 

The bent pin can then be gripped in some 'mole' grips, or with a simple pair of pliers, allowing plenty of torque to be applied with little to no damage to the holes.

Scratching can be avoided by padding the surfaces with thin card, paper or masking tape. Or taping over the plier Jaws.

A paper-clip can be similarly cut and bent for use with larger diameter pinhead bolts, lens-rings or similar.

FWIW, the few F2s that I worked on showed no sign of Loktite securing of the motor drive bolt. 

Edited by rodeo_joe1
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