Which Manual Nikon Body for Me?

[jasunwin]

I am a graduate student who will be doing research this coming

summer in Alaska. I am an avid photographer who enjoys nature,

landscape and B&W photography. I currently have a Nikon N90s that I

plan on taking with me but I'm looking for a relialbe backup that

may need to perform under harsh conditions. I may also need it to

document my research. I'm caught between choosing the older FM body

or the FM2. Which manual body would you recomend? If not these

which one? Thanks (PS I'm not overly wealthy at the moment)

[vedearduff]

Jason,

 

How much can you justify spending?

 

I just checked the B&H web site, they list the gray market chrome FM3a for $469.95. The black version is $489.95.

 

If that is more than you want to spend, you should be able to get a used FM2n (in ex+ condition) for about $100.00 to $150.00 less.

 

The FM3a offers the advantage of aperture priority while still providing a shutter speed range from 1 to 1/4000th of a second even without batteries. With an FE2, you would get the aperture priority mode but you would be limited to 1/250th of a second with cold or dead batteries. Another potential problem with an FE2 is that it was discontinued in 1987 and parts MAY be rather hard to find.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Vernon

[lex_jenkins]

I'll also recommend the FM2N - it'll be a bit newer than the FM or FM2 and chances of finding a reliable one that won't need a CLA are greater. But don't count on finding one in truly excellent condition for less than $200. If you do, better budget some extra money for a CLA or even repairs, just in case.

 

For $75-$150, I'd look for a good Nikkormat, something like an FTn. The meter might not work but the bodies are solid.

[carl_madson]

Either will work great! I would go with the FM2 just because it is newer and probably in better shape with less wear. The FM2n has the following over the FM:

<P>

<table border="1" width="400">

<tr> <td></td><td>FM</td><td>FM2n</td> </tr>

<tr><td>Top Shutter Speed</td><td>1/1000 s.</td><td>1/4000 s.</td></tr>

<tr><td>Top Flash Sync</td><td>1/125 s.</td><td>1/250 s.</td></tr>

<tr><td>Multiple Exposure Lever</td><td>Yes</td><td>More convenient</td></tr>

<tr><td>Flash Ready Light</td><td>No</td><td>Yes</td></tr>

<tr><td>Removable AI prong*</td><td>Yes</td><td>No</td></tr>

<tr><td>ASA Range</td><td>12-3200</td><td>12-6400</td></tr>

<tr><td>Viewfinder Info</td><td></td><td>Slightly improved over FM<td></tr>

</table>

*This is useful for mount really old Non-AI lenses, which you probably don't have if you are using an N90s already. <P><P>The only difference between the FM2 and FM2n is the FM2 only has a 1/200 s. top shutter sync speed. There is also the FM3a but it is a little more expensive. It does have the benefit of being a current production model so parts and repair services will be available for it. One more camera to consider is an F3HP. Sometimes you can find them really cheap on E bay. The main advantage of the F3 is that it is much more durable than any of the FM's. The disadvantage is that is slightly larger and much heavier. <P>

Hope this helps. Out of curiosity where in Alaska will you be? <P>

-Carl

[david_chananie]

Will your documentation require you to see the entire frame before you take the picture? If so, you need an F series bidt, The F2As is wonderful, the F3HP has an excellent viewing system. Otherwise, an FM2n would likely do you just fine.

[daryl]

Hi Jason,<P>

I shoot regularly with an F3HP (sometimes with an MD-4 motor drive) and an FM2n. The one thing that I would like to bring up is the reliability factor here. The F3 has an electronic shutter control and relies on battery power. In comparison, the FM series cameras are fully mechanical. The only thing the battery does is give juice to the meter. If the battery dies, you still have a fully functioning camera. For field work or adventure type photography, this could be of great importance to you. If you plan on using your camera in seriously cold weather, it will become even more important. What usually happens is the batteries freeze up. If that happens on something like an F3, it's toast. Sure, it has a mechanical release, but only a single shutter speed.<P>

A strong argument in favour of the FM2, or even the FM2n is the age factor. The FM was introduced in 1977, and the FM2 replaced it in 1982. The FM2n was introduced in 1983 with the honeycomb titanium shutter blades and then that was changed to the smooth aluminum shutter around 1989. This should help you assess the age of the cameras you are looking at. A second thing the FM2n has going for it is the relatively fast 1/250 flash synch speed. Something to keep in mind as well.<P>

Hope that helps.

[douglas_green1]

The F3HP is NOT much heavier than the FM/FM2n, it is only a few ounces heavier. I'd say that the choice is simple: If you have $400 or more to spend, get an F3, $250-350, get an FM2n, Under $200 get an FM. In good working condition, any of them will serve the purpose you seek. Since it doesn't appear that use with Flash will be particularly important for you, the main advantages of the FM2n will be negated versus the other 2 cameras.

[plattro]

I like my FM2N.

 

The FM2N also takes standard shutter release cables, and has a bigger rounder shutter button. You can mount the MD12 without worrying if this spedial switch is turned... but then the FM takes pre-AI lenses (Which don't fit your N90 anyway).

[steve_levine]

I'll 3rd vote for the FM2n.These are indesrtuctable,they will run W/O batteries (no metering)at all speeds.Last,their small size & lightweight sells these!

[tony_terlecki]

FM2n. This is coming from someone who shot on Denali exclusively with that camera. It performed flawlessly at all temperatures I experienced on the mountain (down to about -40 deg F). I spoke to Nikon about any CLA that the camera might have needed to prepare it for use in the extreme cold and they replied that the lubrication mechanisms in the camera were already optimised for the cold (something about some graphite based lubrication).

[john_belknap1]

I just bought a very clean FM (late model) with a 50/1.8 for a friend of mine. Paid $175. Seems to be in excellent condition although I haven't shot a roll through it yet. There are a lot of them around in that price range. Sure it only has 1/1000 top speed and 1/125 sync. So what? Very reliable, although earlier ones may need new light seals. Clean FM2n's go for quite a bit more - $300-400. Highly recommend you get one of the Nikon reference books if you're buying used so you know what the ser #s are for different versions of lenses and bodies. I have the Nikon Compendium as well as Braczko's Nikon Pocket Book.

[richard_cochran]

If you're caught between the FM and FM2n, there really isn't that

much difference between them. Max shutter speed, flash sync speed,

and flash viewfinder readylight are the most significant ones, IMO,

but these aren't very significant for most purposes. The FM2n has

the annoying habit of turning off its meter just when you're

getting everything set, because its meter is on a timer, while

the FM is much more obedient, keeping its meter turned on until

I turn it off.

<p>

I put together a detailed nitpicky comparison of my FM and my FM2n at

<a href="http://www.lanset.com/rcochran/fmfm2n.html">

http://www.lanset.com/rcochran/fmfm2n.html</a>.

You can see there are lots of little trivial details, but

in practice, the two cameras are almost completely interchangable.

I usually can find no reason to prefer one over the other

for a given mission. I'd mostly let price and condition guide me if

I were buying another.