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LF by stiching digital pics to big size ?


jan_eerala1

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Instead of making huge scans from LF films, could it be possible to

take a lot of pics with a 3-4 MB digicam and stich them all together

with stiching software? I'm not thinking of panoramas which is usual

in this case, but of ordinary views, resulting in a huge file of 200-

300 MB for Lightjet/Lambda-printing. If this could be done, it would

open a door for many very interesting applications, eg. new ways to

handle spatial spaces. Is there anyone having information available?

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How do you define large format photography? For the moment I'm only using 8x10 color films, having them scanned, and making mostly 40x50 inch lightjet prints. The digital files are from 200 to 400 Mbytes. If this could be done in some other way, eliminating the whole scan process, why wouldn't this be considered as LF photography?
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Jan...

 

I think this may be more in the realm of collage.....photomontage.....David Hockney.....however that said...if this does turn out to be large format photography you have just saved me a bundle on a new lightweight system I am considering..... Good luck with your stitching....

 

Annie

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You will see the difference.

 

If you have ever tried to make a panorama by stitching together a series of shots, you know that unless you are very careful about your tripod alignment, the images do not overlap perfectly. This is especially true if you use a wide angle lens, where things look different near the edges - or a lens that gives lower brightness towards the edges. This is also true if you use a polarizer, where the angle towards the sun changes the effects of the filter.

 

If you extend the analogy, and take "panoramic" photographs in both the horizontal and vertical dimensions, you get the same problems, twice over. (As I recall, NASA uses this technique to map distant planets and moons, but that's a different situation. They have no other choice).

 

If you like the effect you get, then by all means do it. In fact, you can save some money by getting a cheaper camera, say 1 MegaPixel. You just have to stitch together a few more images ;-)

 

On the other hand, if you like the exquisitely sharp and velvety look of an 11x14 platinum/palladium contact print, then do that.<div>004fP5-11718184.jpg.0e647ee63518662d920aef0d89e4cd9f.jpg</div>

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Jan...

I just reread my comment to you and I sound snide and unnecessarily sarcastic... It is not my intention to demean your idea...my excuse.... three days ago I broke my wrist while diving to save my beloved Sinar from a tumble.... So I am a bit grumpy on the LF thing..... I wish you well in your photographic endeavours!

...Annie

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stitching is stitching whether its a pan or what you want to do. this panorama (3 transparencies at 800dpi) would take me about 4 hours in photoshop. the print is 36 x 13 at 240dpi<html>

<ul>

<li><a href=http://home.att.net/~shipale/pitts.html>a pittsburgh panorama</a></li>

</ul>

<html>

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<I><B>If this could be done in some other way, eliminating the whole scan process, why wouldn't this be considered as LF photography?</B></I><P>

Well, because you aren't using large format equipment to do it! Kind of like, it isn't 35mm photography either!

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I think you've a misunderstood the question. From what I can see, he's asking if he can shoot small portions of the LF FILM with a digital camera and stitch the bits together with software. This would save the expensive scan.

 

If that's correct, all I can say is "you get what you pay for", i.e. it will never be even close to as good as a proper scan.

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Thank's to all taking me serious! I'm really looking for the same feel and information that is given us by LF and ULF. Of course any digital method will not replace the delight of just looking into a bright 8x10 screen or handling a b&w contact sheet. So take care of your Sinar Annie as of your wrist, analog and digital can live in peace and collaborate together. A collage is a different thing, this could be easy done in PS or by pics only.
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No Ole, I'm really searching for the possibility to do even ULF photography, although ,in a little different way. The scanning step is a thing just degrading the quality of the picture, but it's just one reason only to search for new solutions.
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This is not at all a bad idea and I'm pretty sure I saw once a software that does exactly that, but using a small digital camera will produce questionable results. In fact, when you will start to blend the edges, you will see that the images does not overlap each other correctly. This is due to the deformation the lens induces on the edges of the frame and is especially accentuated with wider lenses. What would produce better results would be to scan portions of the image produced by a large format camera, by displacing the back on the different sections. But then you might ask: is it worth the effort. And if the scene changes during the process, lighting, sky, it will be difficult to have a homogenous result.
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Jan ; the panorama people do this for long strips. A local guy here uses a 5 megapixel camera; with a special tripod head to swing the camera about its nodal point.<BR><BR>Specialized stiching software uses inputs of the actual taking lenses distortion values. These are experimentally measured; and used as inputs to the stiching software. <BR><BR>As in regular film work; the exposure should be close for good matching.<BR><BR> Using the highest storage modes of *.tiff results in long time to write to the storage card; the lighting changes during a sunset will be a horrid mess; and will not stich well at all. (I did this once!) . Using the *.jpg settings allows one to take photos about as fast as my filmholders on my Speed Graphic!<BR><BR>You should study stiching of photos probably in the digital boards; or in Google. <BR><BR>Big stiching programs are not free. My freebiw program will only output a 9 megapixel file. A scan of my 4x5" color negative or slide is about 290 Megabytes with my Epson 2450 scanner!<BR><BR>The stiching is not that easy; and zoom lenses have huge amounts of distortion. My stiching program requires a 50 % overlap just to work. <BR><BR>Many times I manually connect big image together in Photoshop by hand; rubber stamp tool.
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