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Mini Speed Graphic 2x3 Graflok conversion?


williamtk1974
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Good afternoon,

 

A couple of days ago, I "accidentally" won an ebay auction for a Mini Speed Graphic 2x3 camera. I made a low offer, and much to my surprise, the seller accepted it.

 

Now, the camera was being sold as having a "Grafloc" back in its item description. Well, a bit of further research on my part shows that the pics look more like the Graphic spring back that these cameras came with originally.

 

I would like to convert it to a Graflok back in order to use on of the roll film attachments, but I'm not sure what parts to get for this. I plan on keeping all of the parts so everything could be sold on to a new owner if I ever sold it.

 

Has anyone done this, and might you have any before and after pics of the job?

 

Thank you,

-William

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When Graflex introduced the Graflok back they offered Graflok backs to be retrofitted to older Graphics, including the Miniature Speed Graphic. The Mini's retrofit backs have a flash terminal at the upper left rear corner. If you look long enough, you'll find a Mini with one. New old stock Mini retrofit Grafloks are very scarce.

 

But and however, Graflok backs for 2x3 Pacemaker Graphics (Crown, Speed) fit Miniature Speed Graphics. Also very scarce.

 

There are three ways you can proceed. Sell your Mini and buy a Mini with retrofitted Graflok (proper Mini or later Pacemaker). Use an insertion type roll holder, e.g., the Adapt-A-Roll 620. Buy a busted or somehow inexpensive Pacemaker with Graflok and swap the back over.

 

Ages ago I bought a 2x3 Pacemaker Speed Graphic with a spring back, later found a Mini with a Pacemaker Graflok, swapped the backs and sold the Mini. The swap is easy. Unscrew the screws (four, two on the upper edge, two on the lower edge) that hold the back to the body, carefully pry the back off the body, replace on the target camera. Do not buy a Graflok back without a focusing panel.

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My "Baby Speed Graphic" concurrent or directly on the heels of the "Anniversary " models came with GG back. IIRC the same "springs ( wide long spring steel clips) held it in place. Included in the "kit" was also a roll film back. I was able to simply swap the GG back with the roll film back. The bearing of these steel spring clips was not very much , but sufficient. No leaks if handled with care and dark slide. I believe this is what people refer to as the "spring back". There's one screw in the middle for each spring. The middle pic (see link) is what my 2x3 had in place...call me stupid .. but it worked.. I've been told it's a kluge.. but the clips held the roll back in place.. and like I said..it works....

 

Untitled Document

 

 

You might want to post pics of your gear... easy to evaluate what you have and/or need.

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I've looked into doing the sheetmetal adaption myself, but eventually fitted my 1940s Miniature Speed with a Graflok back.

 

Switching out the back isn't difficult, but the screw holes might not line up properly and will require a little work to drill or dremel tool.

Also the focus will need to be recalibrated as the registration distance is slightly different from the spring back.

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I managed to win an auction for a Mini SG with a Graflok back being sold for parts only. I'm hoping that it might be repairable, but we'll see when it gets here. I'm keeping the other one. Kind of half to now given that I've done a couple of repairs lol. All of the speeds on the lens shutter now work correctly, and so does the Kalart Range Finder. The little mirror inside had come off, but I was able to get it glued back on. Once I exercised the focal plane shutter, it started working very well.
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That'S great... hopefully you'll be able to make it a good working version. My FP was a bit stiff but seems to work Ok. Frankly.. I only have used it a few times. I have what I believe to be the same shutter in my Graflex Jr. Not there's a "clap" when that mirror goes up Plop!!

 

I will post my Baby SG pic here soon... Unfortunately, the "GG" part is buried in the cellar, my pic will show the springs and the roll film back.

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Hi,

 

I need to inspect the bottom of mine, but likely an upholstery nail with a similar rounded profile?

 

Here'S a pic of my Mini/Baby Speed Graphic with the springs and a rollfilm back. Apparently it's a "Kluge" but a popular one, as I found many examples of this "Kluge".. a lot of aftermarket kits were sold.

 

The third image is NOT MY camera, but it shoes the same clips being used to support the GG back.

 

 

 

 

20191115_212146.thumb.jpg.acc03f42f4699fc791024af7a6b1df57.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

20191115_212053.thumb.jpg.aaddb6a55054827d2f4a39a061274d4c.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

MiniSpeedGraphic1.JPG.cf311d040feeee34fc0bc1cd0a89a454.JPG

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Ok, good news is that the camera arrived today. It's what we would call a Pacemaker SG 2x3. Serial number dates it to around 1950, so it's around ten years younger than the first one I bought. It's in pretty good shape. The focal plane shutter works just like it's supposed to. It was being sold as non-working because the Kodak Flash Supermatic shutter on the Ektar 101mm lens was gummed up. A little lighter fluid with a q-tip got it running, at least for awhile...

 

Then, the bad thing happened... The shutter started sounding draggy again, so I thought I would take a peek inside and try to have a go at better cleaning and lubrication. As it turns out, it's perfectly ok to go in through the front of the shutter. But I didn't know that, and tried to go in through the bottom. Apparently, some of the springs use those screws to brace against, so now nothing's working the way it's supposed to, and I'm not quite sure what to do. I'm kicking myself about this.

 

Anyone by chance have a good, clear pic of what the shutter is supposed to look like when it's put together properly?

 

Thank you,

-William

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Google Kodak Supermatic Disassembly and a lot of images and info show up.

 

I ended up getting a manual from Mike Butkus that showed what I needed. Trouble is, I don't think this shutter is ever going to be as good as the shutter on the other camera. I work on watches. and this one looks like a cheap, brass clockwork to me. Lots of places for it to get worn.

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The problem seems to center around the 1/25 shutter speed, which is the first one in the fast grouping. For some reason, the release doesn't seem to spring back all the way, so when you go to cock the shutter, it's like it immediately fires again. All the other speeds, including B and T, seem fine. I haven't done any real scientific testing or anything like that.

 

It's also missing the handle on the left side. I'm probably going to get a dog collar to take its place.

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