Bronica GS-1 flash

[Wilmarco Imaging]

Good job Michael! It takes a while to learn how a speedlight works. Once you get the hang of it, it will become second nature.

 

Experiment with bounce flash and bounce cards. It gives a more uniform light and reduces or eliminates red eye and the "deer in the headlights" look.

 

Later on, practice on using less and less flash power. It will give a more natural look while still delivering a good exposure.

[michael_radika]

I will I'm going to do some bounce Flash I'm just going to keep playing around and playing around with it in different situations so I become familiar with it.

 

I bought a 15ft sync cord to plug into my camera into the flash so I can do some off-camera stuff too and I'm definitely going to try some manual mode stuff too.

[rodeo_joe1]

The only way that a Nikon speedlight indicates 14mm is if the diffuser panel is pulled out. Or if the diffuser has been broken off.

 

Have a look at the diffuser - situated above the Fresnel lens of the flash. If you haven't got one it's been broken off and is the cause of the permanent 14mm display.

 

Apart from displaying 14mm all the time, I'm not sure how much the lack of diffuser affects the performance of the flash. See page 98 of the PDF manual.

 

"Setting the zoom-head position when the wide-flash adapter is broken off using Custom settings menu. It is no longer possible to set the zoom-head position to other than 14mm or 17mm."

[michael_radika]

Everything is going well I have a question page I believe 42 of the manual it's either 41 or 42.

 

It's Auto aperture page which basically means I'm taking a picture of somebody outside I need to blur the background I need my lens to be at 5.6 so I set the flash 25.6 100 is The Flash chooses how much power to light the scene if I'm correct.

 

There's some type of weird graph laid out on page 42 or 41 it's basically showing a bunch of apertures and distances and then there's a little explanation at the bottom if you shoot at five point six hundred II so you'll get this much distance from your subject it sounds more like manual instructions than Auto aperture.

 

I'm not quite understanding The graft I thought Auto aperture was as simple as I picked the aperture I picked the film Speed The Flash pics how much power I could be wrong.

[Wilmarco Imaging]

Michael, it looks like you want to make a portrait with a blurred background, is this right?

 

- I would open the lens to its widest setting. If this is f/5.6, then use it. If your lens opens to f/2.8 or f/4, I would use the largest aperture (smallest f/number).

- Set the flash to the same aperture as you set the lens. For example f/2.8 if your lens can do this.

- Set the film speed on the flash to the film speed you are using.

- check the table on page 41, and be sure the subject is at a distance which corresponds to the lens focal lens, aperture and film speed.

- make the photo

 

This will produce a "fully exposed" image. The good news is the subject will be recorded with enough exposure. The downside is, in my opinion, it will look like "flash" photography, not subtle.

[michael_radika]

Yeah I want to make a photograph with the background blurred yeah I understand I I set the aperture on my cameras at the aperture on the flash set the ISO on the flash I see what you're saying I have to follow the aperture on their and everything and it'll tell me roughly how far away the person needs to be from the flash on that layout on page 42 that's what I thought it was.

 

You're right the downside is it's going to look like a flash shot and I don't want it to look like a flash shot I sorta want like fill Flash and I'm guessing for that I'm going to probably have to go to manual or I can control the output of the power of the Flash.

 

Or maybe I could I guess change the aperture on the flash close it down to like maybe a F-8 or something like that right it's going to let less Flash in but that's only going to affect the overall exposure right it'll just be underexposed.

 

Yeah I think what I'll have to do is all I think I'll have to go in the manual otherwise the auto aperture mode your right is going to just give me a picture that looks like I used flash it's not going to be subtle like a nice look it's going to look like yeah he use the Flash.

 

I understand I think I understand the chart on page 42 now I'm just going to have to play with it and just mess around with it until I get a good feel for it and mess around with the manual part of The Flash 2 then I can control the output the power 16th 1/8 power.

 

I'm buying a Westcott 26 in Octa box which you stick your flash in the back so the auto aperture is going to be useless for that that is going to have to just be flash meter.

 

. So I'll just continue to play around with it and experiment on different distances and different apertures and till I become more comfortable with it and I know more what I'm doing thanks again for your input.

Edited February 27, 2018 by michael_radika

[rodeo_joe1]

For fill flash outdoors, set the auto aperture on the flash to one or two stops wider than the camera lens.

 

Personally, I don't like the look of heavy fill, so I'd set the flash power two stops lower than ambient.

 

For example: the daylight exposure demands an aperture of f/5.6, so I tell the flash I'm using f/2.8. This 'fools' the flash into giving a fill exposure two stops weaker than daylight.

 

Alternatively, you can alter the ISO rating on the flash and quadruple the speed from what's in the camera.

 

YMMV, and you might have to experiment to get a setting that looks good to you. Luckily the SB-80 allows flash compensation in 1/3rd stop intervals.

 

PS. You might also need an ND filter on the camera lens to get the aperture you want with full sunlight. Then things get complicated, and you have to do some maths to work out the flash aperture relative to the camera. A 0.6D (two stop ND) makes it easy, since you just set the same aperture on speedlight and camera.

Edited February 27, 2018 by rodeo_joe|1

[michael_radika]

Hey thanks Rodeo Joe I think I understand what you're saying.

 

I can change the aperture on the flash different than what's on my camera or I can play with the iso which is going to fool The Flash into thinking it doesn't need as much power as if I said it that the normal way which then my picture won't look so flashy.

 

I've been watching a lot of videos and all the advice you guys have given me I've got a bunch of Fuji fp-100c so this weekend I am going to blow off a couple boxes on practicing on different exposures different you know playing around with it so I can get a better feel for it.

 

But I think I made a good choice I'm I like the flash I like the menu I like I like everything about it I just think I think it's a good Flash I actually have two of them.

 

I need to practice in manual mode too because like I said I have a Westcott 26 in Octa box coming which Depp going to have to basically be all manual lots to learn.

 

From what I'm reading a lot of photographers most photographers struggle with taking the flash off the camera and doing off camera flash as soon as you step away from TTL and you have to calculate things yourself I think a lot of people get lost.

 

That guy in Samy's Camera told me 60 75% of the people that work in there once they take the flash off their camera do not know what to do.

 

Again thanks for everybody's help I'm sure I'll come up with more questions.

 

Yeah I think in studio it's much simpler then outside outside the ambient light plays much more into the equation I mean I can basically take my bronica aim the camera at the sky and get the ambient light exposure which will then and meter for that little then throw my subject Into Darkness then you start popping flash or you start bringing in the The Flash to fill in the subject.

 

I think it's getting the right balance so it doesn't look obvious that you used your flash where it's just a nice fill in but it's very subtle.

[rodeo_joe1]

For your studio work, get a flashmeter. It'll save you a lot of wasted film and other grief.

 

I've used several makes of flashmeter - there's almost no difference in accuracy between the cheapest and most expensive. However, ones that meter both flash and ambient are obviously more useful, but generally more expensive.

 

For a basic flashmeter that has limited ambient measuring ability, I think it's hard to beat a Shepherd FM1000. They sell used for around £25 (=$35 US) here in the UK. It'll save you that much in film and processing very quickly.

 

A Minolta Autometer IIIF or IVF is a nice step up, but one in good condition is going to cost 2 or 3 times the price of the Shepherd, and is a more complicated meter to use.

[michael_radika]

Hey my fellow photographers I've got another question for you I have the two Nikon SB 80dx they are Optical slave.

 

I want to put those two flashes on a stand separately the only thing that will fire those two flashes is a another SB 80dx on my hot shoe on my camera is that correct?

 

What I'm trying to do is I'm trying to fire those two SB 80dx flashes from a wireless trigger on my camera is in the hot shoe is that possible another words how do I Go Wireless without putting another flash on my camera.

Edited March 3, 2018 by michael_radika

[michael_radika]

I'm talking about using something other than pocket Wizards a little expensive looking for a cheaper alternative.

[michael_radika]

I know I could run a PC sync cord from my camera to the first Flash and then the first flash will fire the second Flash without any wires but I'm trying to eliminate the PC cord willing to spend 80 bucks maximum.

 

I was looking on the auto Rama at lots of triggers receivers that my head spins when I see that I don't understand how it all works.

[Wilmarco Imaging]

Michael, have you carefully read pages 82-90 of the speedlight manual? What are your thoughts about the information you have read?

 

Slaves are generally of three types: optical, infrared and radio. It appears that the Nikon SB-80DX uses an optical slave. The word "wireless" is used many times in the manual, and technically the word is correct. Wireless in the case of your flash seems to mean optical, it does not mean "radio".

 

Wireless in modern usage has a connotation more closely associated with "radio", ranging from several hundred MHz to 5 GHz and above. Radio "wireless" is used by laptops, smartphones and radio triggers like PocketWizard and others. PocketWizard, for example, uses roughly a frequency around 350 MHz. I think newer triggers use the 2.4/2.5 GHz frequency range. Therefore radio triggers are indeed "wireless", but are neither optical nor infrared. As a final example, Minolta had a few "wireless" accessories that use infrared as the communication means.

 

Back to your situation. For off camera flash, you can shoot corded, or wireless. Corded means you need a PC cord (cable) from your camera to the speedlight, wherever it is placed in your studio. Wireless means a radio trigger. To shoot wireless with a radio trigger, you need a pair of trigger devices, one on your camera and one attached to the speedlight, wherever it is placed in your studio. I want to emphasize that PocketWizard Plus II units are not very expensive, but you need to be patient to find them at a good price.

 

If you are willing to use a speedlight on your camera grip, this can be used as a master to drive other flashes; in this case no cable is needed. I point you once again to pages 82-90 of the manual, where diagrams are provided and instructions are given.

 

Send me a private message and we can schedule a phone call if you want. I am happy to help.

[michael_radika]

Let me rephrase my question try to make it simple. I have to SB 80dx they have Optical slave mode.

 

I know I can put them in the mode where they see each other one fires the other and I can run to PC cord from my camera into one Flash and control both of them independently of each other far as power goes.

 

I don't want to run the cord what I want to do is I don't want to buy another flash I know if I buy another SB 80dx and put it on my hot shoe I can control all three flashes I don't want to do that I want to control the other two flashes without buying a third Flash.

 

I know you guys recommended different ways that I can fire it. Is there something that I can just put in my hot shoe that I can make those other two flashes fire off the camera do I need a transceiver a transmitter or receiver this is where I don't understand this stuff or can it be done.

 

I've had two people at camera stores tell me the only way to fire those two flashes off the camera is with a third flash in the hot shoe I don't believe that I got to believe there's something on the market I can put in that hot shoe it's going to fire those two flashes without using a third Flash.

 

Pocket Wizards are too expensive basically what I want to know is some recommendations from anybody out there do I need a transceiver receiver what do I need to fire those two flashes off the camera appreciate any help I'm trying to order something from Adorama camera but I don't know what to get thank you.

[Wilmarco Imaging]

Michael, yes.

 

Buy a pair of radio triggers.

 

You say that PocketWizards are too expensive. I am telling you, this is not always the case if you are patient.

 

What is your budget for triggers? There are a number of choices: Yongnuo, Godox and maybe others. What have you found on eBay and craigslist, assuming you are located in the US.

[michael_radika]

I got about $100 budget yeah I'm in the USA I'm in California. Is see where I get confused you're right Godox ,yongnou, very inexpensive the problem is they offer 20 different varieties of them Canon Nikon Fuji receivers transceivers that's the part where I'm confused.

 

Am I going to be able to put just one on my hot shoe or am I going to have to put one on my hot shoe and receivers on each Flash?

[Wilmarco Imaging]

You need 2 (a pair of) trigger units. They are called transceivers. Each unit can transmit and receive a signal. The signals are radio frequency, not optical or infrared. One transceiver is mounted on your speed grip hot shoe. The other is attached to the speed light. A transceiver is needed on each speed light unless the speed light has optical slave capability.

 

Sort of like the following photo. Your GS-1 will function in a similar way as the ETRS.

 

Bronica ETRs meets Pocket Wizard Plus ll

 

The minimum number of tranceivers you need is 2.

 

$100 is easily enough for a pair of tranceivers. I found 3 PocketWizard Plus II units for $60 on Craigslist. I usually see them for more than $20 each, so patience is needed.

[michael_radika]

Hey thanks I appreciate your help thanks for being patient with me now I understand what I need to do.

 

I will look for some transceivers to make my system work thank you for your help thank you for your recommendation there's a lot of stuff out there for $100 or less that I can use now that I know what I'm looking for thanks again really appreciate it.

[michael_radika]

Going with the yongnou 622n-tx seems like a really good price. It looks like the transmitter on the camera as a decent size LED screen and I should be able to control my flashes from that without having to walk over to each Flash hopefully it's going to do that but I think it will it's $75 for the whole system I'm going to give it a try.

[michael_radika]

Okay I've got one last question for you guys. I can get a really good deal on the godox xpro -n, it's a it's a transmitter it's got an LED screen you can control all kinds of things that power the all different kinds of things.

 

I plan on buying two receivers to put in my two Nikon SB 80dx on the receivers now comes my question.

 

Do you think when I put the x-pro on my hot shoe on my camera and I put the receivers on my to Nikon flashes do you think I'll be able to control those flashes through the screen of the transmitter another words I can choose one 16 power 1/8 power do you think I'll have that functionality with it or is it going to just trigger it ?

 

I know I don't have TTL I just want to be able to control the Flash manually and auto aperture through that little transmitter screen without having to go over to each flash I want to go to turn the power up and down I'm wondering if it'll give me this kind of functionality or not?

[Wilmarco Imaging]

Sorry, but I am no help on the specific question Michael. I am not familiar with how the Godox works. It would be safe to assume that no advanced functions will work correctly, and that basic flash triggering might be the minimum functionality possible. Therefore the shooting options with the Nikon SB 80dx would be manual or automatic, as described in the speedlight manual. The flash triggers would be just that, flash triggers. Not flash controllers.

[michael_radika]

Okay so after some serious digging around the internet I stumbled onto the cactus V6 it is a transceiver that is kind of self learning it will pick up a Flash and learn how to operate it there are many many many compatible flash is it supposed to be compatible with almost every flash of course not everyone ever made but a lot of them and I was on their site and my Nikon SB 80dx is listed as fully compatible so there's a profile for it so you into the profile and it learns all the functions of the Flash and you can completely control The Flash from the little transceiver pretty exciting I just ordered my Cactus V6 we'll see how it works.

[michael_radika]

I've included a link to a video on the transceiver I'm getting this thing is freaking amazing you just put the flash on it and it starts learning all the functions of different flashes it's amazing.

 

[rick_jack1]

Any of the Quantum Q flashes will work fine. Forget about TTL, "friends don't let friends shoot TTL". You have more control and better results in auto. Multiple heads and wireless is the way to go.

[michael_radika]

Hey guys I'm back got a few more questions.

 

So I received my Cactus V6 transceivers in the mail I was able to finally figure out how to get it to learn my Nikon sb-80dx the th the two Cactus V6 is are communicating when I push to test-fire it fires The Flash when I put the cactus V6 in my hot shoe on my camera and I fire it it will not fire the flash on the other end of the cactus V6 only when I push the test button on the transmitter on my camera will it fire when I cock and fire my shutter it will not fire The Flash don't know why.

 

The cactus V6 does have a place for a sink cord the only thing I can think of that I have to run a sync cord from my sink poured on my camera into the cactus V6 on the camera to get it to work which I'm hoping I don't have to do that but that may be why it's not firing been playing half the night can't figure it out.