Alaska/Denali NP for wildlife: June or September

[jeff_d._johnston]

I went to Alaska and Denali NP in September of 97 and got great

weather for about a week and far too few images because most of the

wildlife was well out of range. I was considering going back in late

May or early June and was wondering if anyone who had gone at that

time would share their experiences with me.

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff Johnston

[ron_niebrugge]

Jeff, good question and one I have wondered myself. I usually make a couple trips each September. Last year I decided to do one in mid June, and one in September. I would vote for September for the following reasons (although I'm going in both June and September again this year).

 

Animal's coats look great in the fall as they prepare for winter. Most animals are losing their coats in the spring, and are not quite as photogenic.

 

In the fall moose and caribou racks are at their largest and free of velvet. They are not nearly as impressive in the spring.

 

The country side can really explode with color if you hit the dates just right in the fall. In mid June the country side will be just beginning to turn from brown to green, with each gully creating streaks of white because of un-melted snow. Early June it is mostly a brown and white world, and in late May you may not even be able to travel past Teklanika. Even in early/mid June last year the road was closed past the Eielson Visitor Center. You will find very few wildflowers until later in the summer.

 

Why go in June at all? Babies. The young of bears, sheep, moose, etc. will never be as "cute" as they are in the first few weeks of life.

 

Weather can be good or bad at any time. Last June I hit 80 degree plus weather - I have never tried to sleep in such a uncomfortable tent. The week after I left - it snowed! I have worn shorts in some September's - others I have seen a foot of snow and very cold wind.

 

Regarding your September 97 trip, let me just say this. I have noticed that during warm stretches of weather the animals seen less active, so your nice weather may have been a mixed blessing. Denali is a numbers game. I have had great days, and average days. I have had great visits, and average visits. You never know what the next day, or next visit will bring. That is what will keep calling you back for more. Maybe tomorrow will be the day a wolf will approach you, or a wolverine will cross the road.

 

One final note. To get a real feel for Denali at the different times of year, try to find a copy of Denali Journal by professional photographer Tom Walker. I read my copy every spring - it will definitely get the juices flowing.

[john_spreitzer]

I was in Denali during the second week of June '97. (Going back Aug 30 thru Sep 3 of this year for prime colors and racks, hopefully). Rode the shuttle for 5 days. Only got to see McKinley on my last day there.

Saw numerous bears, many very close up. Got a shot of one with a ground squirrel in it's mouth, that it had just dug up. The best places for bears were Highway Pass and Thorofare Pass. Got some great oppurtunities for Dall Sheep ewes and lambs at Polychrome Pass. Golden Eagles were also common here. I saw 2 moose cows with calves, between the park entrance and Teklanika. One was crossing the river with her calf by the Teklanika overlook. The calf had to struggle but it did finally make it across. I did not get any really good caribou photo ops. They were generally too far from the road.

 

If your main focus is wildlife I would not bother going past Eielson. I think your time would be better spent by getting off the bus, perhaps at Igloo Canyon, Polychrome Pass or Eielson.

 

Can't wait to go back. Denali to me is a magical place.

 

Hope this info helps. Have a great trip!

 

ANY TIPS ANYONE HAS FOR DENALI IN THE FALL WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

[ross_geredien]

I am pretty well-qualified to answer this question: I was a park-road driver in Denali for three years.

 

There are about four weeks that are THE peak weeks for action.

 

They are the last week of May, the first week of June Calving and hence-forth large carnivore/prey interaction, spring leaf-out, wildflower bloom, and nice light/dynamic weather are all happening at this time.

 

The other two weeks is from about Aug. 22nd, to Sept. 5th plus or minus two days either side. Here the wildlife is still close to the road, shifting their movement patterns, fattening up for winter, i.e. Grizzly hyperphagia, caribou migration, and preparation for moose rut. Peak foliage happens between Aug. 25th and Sep. 4th-5th. Weather can be extraordinarily beautiful: rainbows, early snowfall, jaw-dropping beauty. Go. It will haunt you for the rest of your life. The next time someone mentions Denali, you'll get a glazed-over look in your eyes, you'll start to drool, and you'll stare into space......Denali.....Denali....

 

SPECIAL NOTE: About a year ago, Galen Rowell did a commentary on Outdoor Photographer about a trip in late Sept. He said the wildlife was very few and far between. He blamed it on the road traffic. It's not surprising that the wildlife were all far from the road, but his reasoning was off. Road traffic is low in late Sept. Most wildlife by that time have moved away from the road corridor, part of their natural seasonal patterns. Activity declines significantly along the road after Sept. 10th with the exception of the moose rut between miles six and twelve.

[jeff_d._johnston]

Additional information is always welcome, but I just wanted to say "thanks" to those of you who have responded thus far. I appreciate your help.

 

Regards,

 

Jeff