SR-T102 Problem

[dan_chau]

Hi, I'm kind of knew to these manual cameras. I have a Minolta SR-T102, and the

diaphragm stop-down button to check the depth of field doesn't go down, and so I

can't set the aperture because the diaphragm is completely open all the time. I

notices when I took the lens off, that at the bottom of the bayonet mount, the

piece that sticks out from the bottom is at the right most position, and I can

push it to the left, but it springs back to the right. I think this is blocking

the little piece that sticks out on the inside of the lens to adjust the size of

the opening of the diaphragm. So, that's my problem, I'm not sure how to fix it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[pteppic]

In response to your second part, the piece on the lens that sticks out is the apateur coupling and it indeed should be sprung. It should return to wide when you let go.

 

The SRTs were the first cameras to use automatic exposure, so you don't need to stop down the lens before you meter, which is what I think you're trying to do. The only instance that you need to stop down the lens is either to check the depth of field, or for lenses which are not meter coupled (SR lenses, M42, etc).

 

It is somewhat disconcerting that the stop down does not work however. Try this as an exercise: Set your SRT to the B setting at f/16 or f/22. Press and hold down the shutter button and look through the lens. If the apateur is closed down whilst your shutter is depressed, then it looks like it's working fine. When you let go of the shutter, the lens should return back to it's widest setting.

[jcofer1]

Note that on the SR-T102, the depth-of-field preview button does not work unless the shutter is cocked.

[dan_chau]

Okay, so, the aperture is closed when I hold down the shutter button and it does return to its widest when I let go. That's a good sign right?

"Note that on the SR-T102, the depth-of-field preview button does not work unless the shutter is cocked." So when is the shutter cocked? How do I do that? You'll have to forgive me, I'm really extrememly new to all this!

[peterblaise]

.

 

"... The SRTs were the first cameras to use automatic exposure, so you don't need to stop down the lens before you meter ..."

 

Actually, the Minolta SR-series cameras have NO auto exposure capability.

 

It's NOT automatic exposure, but automatic aperture diaphracm operation with MANUAL match needle full aperture metering on the Minolta SR T-series "T"hrough the lens metering SLRs.

 

You do need to manually "stop down" the lens to your desired aperture during metering before shutter release or for checking depth of vield preview. However, the aperture remains fully open during metering, and only effectively "stops down" to your selected aperture (below maximum aperture) during depth of preview or at the moment of shutter release.

 

The sequence is:

 

- frame

 

- focus

 

- meter: adjust aperture/shutter to match needle

 

- depth of field preview if you care

 

- shutter release

 

Right?

 

Dan, enjoy your "new: (to you) marvel, and let us know how it goes.

 

Click!

 

Love and hugs,

 

Peter Blaise peterblaise@yahoo.com Minolta Rokkor SR/MC/MD/Z-600 Photographer -- more at: http://www.geocities.com/peterblaise/minoltamf/

[jcofer1]

The shutter is cocked after you advance the film with the lever on the right.

[terence_spross1]

Get used to using the camera before worrying about the diaphragm stop-down button, some of Minoltas like the XG-1 don't even have the button. The lens has markings indicating depth of field use those just like you would on a non-SLR. There is good reason for this - if you shoot in darkend rooms with or without flash, often it is too dark to see the viewfinder clear enough to see what the depth of field is with the lens stopped down. By learning to use the lens markings it becomes second nature and you get better photos. For me, the stop-down button is of most use with telephoto lenses, tripod mounted where I can't accurately estimate quickly enough the focus range even when I look at the markings.

 

Note: in my answer I refer to left and right of the white line--- some lens focus clockwise to focus closer and are therefore just the opposite - so just reverve left and right in that case.

 

 

My usual proceedure when looking at a scene where depth of field is an issue:

 

1. Through the viewfinder, focus on the furthest subject in the photo that you want in-focus. Look at the fous setting on the main white line on the lens. (If infinity -just use infinity -no need to look)

 

2. Focus on the closest subject you want in the same photo and notice the focus setting on the lens again.

 

3. Set the aperture ring with the scene composed using the match needle.

 

4. [Notice that either side of the focus white line, there are numbers corresponding to f/numbers. On many lenses this same white line also is the pointer for the aperater ring f/numbers. ] Look at the aperature set on the lens, say f/8, and then turn

the focus ring until the farthest distance marking is aligned with the f/8 mark to the right side of the white line.

 

5. Then look at the other f/8 mark to the left of the white line and note the distance marking next to it. It must be less than your closest distance in step 2.

 

All points in between are in-focus, [on my 50mm lens 15ft to infinity is in focus at f/8]. If this is more than enough you may feel comfortable refocusing on your main subject and double check that the min and max distaces are still in focus on the ring.

 

If it is not enough distance choose a slower shutter speed which will result in a small enough f/stop to obtain the desired depth of field.

 

6. Recompose and take the picture.

 

Practice this when you are not in a hurry.

 

Obviously your f/stop -distance range will probably be something different than f/8 15ft to infinity.

_______________________________________________

SHORT CUTS

 

1.

If your disposable camera friends are able to take photos faster than you and get better shots of changing events than you because people are moving around etc. and you are still figeting. Try using what I used to call INSTAMATIC MODE:

 

Set the camera to f/11, set the infinity mark on focus ring next to the right most f/11 mark to the right of the white line. Use transparent tape to lock this setting if necessary.

Don't change these settings - just match needle by changing the shutter speed dial. If shutter speeds are too slow use a faster film. Use a 35mm fl lens to increase the depth of field - why do you think the lens on a disposable is almost always a mild wide angle? It yields a larger depth of field range.

 

OR

2. Focus on the main subject and estimating distace note that the markings are in the range you want. You will be better with this shortcut if you've practised the long method sufficiently.

 

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Using the DOF button:

Another time I use the button is to make sure I've sufficiently thrown something OUT OF FOCUS. Say I'm taking a photo of a flower. I don't want the background to be slightly out of focus - I want it to be a complete blur. The button after I've wound the film and am ready to take the photo can be used to see that the backgound is sufficiently no longer detracting. This is where your photo looks like it WASN'T taken by a disposable.

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I hope these hints help.