john_philllips Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Went to repair a dinged top cover on my SRT 101 and found that the two back screws were held fast for no obvious reason. In any event, I sheared off the heads of both trying to get them out. I got the cover off ok and now have to deal with the sheared screws. Any thoughts (short of professional intervention)to getting the little guys out without buggering the threaded holes in the frame? thanks for any advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_hopper Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Sorry, the threads are already buggered, that's why the screws were frozen. Either someone lock-tite'd them, or used the wrong threaded screws, or the camera developed some corrosion to electrolytically lock the screws in place. One option is careful and precise application of penetrating oil alternating with careful application of increasingly stronger solvent (if some locking fluid was used), or acid/base (if screws were electrolytically bound up) to eat away whatever corrosion is holding screws in place. If screws were just cross/mis-threaded, then would need to then retap screwholes; again precision work. In most of these kinds of repairs the camera would need some professional help just to get those frozen screw remnants out. You didn't mention whether this was an early 1966-69 101 with JIS flat-slotted screws, or a later one with ISO phillips head screws. The difference would be that if it was an early one it might possibly be worth getting fixed, if it was a later one it would just as cheap to find a replacement 101. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_philllips Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 Actually it is the earlier one with the slot head screws. but why is the value any different than a later version 101? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_hopper Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 That was in the sense of "might possibly be worth fixing...if you were to ever sell it, and then be able to sell it at the right time to the right person (i.e. a collector)". Right now, I'm guessing that this doesn't matter: all you want is to be able to use your 101. As a camera to use it makes no difference what age your 101 is (or, really, even how it looks), just as long as it works well. The Sr-T101 was made from 1966-75 in 3-4 generations, and possibly millions were made (serial numbers range from 1000xxx up to 3xxxxxx with breaks/jumps in series). For those that collect Sr-T101's the early ones, specifically the first 1966-67 version of the three versions made during the first 1966-69 black dial generation, tend to be sought after more than later ones. And then the second and third black dial 101's tend to also be seen as "collectible" for whatever reason might be in the mind of the collector. (External details that set those very first versions aside are that the top cover screws at back were equally spaced from either side of the eyepiece and that the accessory shoe black plastic base has a vertical rear face.) Any extra value for one of these early 101's would be seen only by collectors: again as a camera to use, Sr-T's are all fine mechanical tanks, many with a lot of nice features, and all with great handling (I still use my Sr-t Super now and then). To refocus on working those remnants out, that method I described does work with care, repeated applications, time and a lot of patience. And while you're applying the penetrating oil, solvents and whatever, work on your camera with it upside down: gravity will help keep the bad stuff out of the cameraworks. You'll know when these are ready to come out, sometimes they'll just turn with gentle persuasion with a pick or probe (don't try to cut a slot in the remnant). Hope you can get those remnants out, but be aware that since these were JIS screws you'll need to replace with like kind from another early black dial 101 if the body threads turn out OK, or just retap/chase holes for ISO (threads are slightly different). If you are successful, you might want to wipe the replacement screws with a tiny bit of heavy grease (to help isolate dissimilar metals) and NO locking fluid, don't overtighten (body threads will be fragile) so it's likely that these two replacement screws will always seem a little "loose". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_philllips Posted December 21, 2005 Author Share Posted December 21, 2005 Thanks again for the explanation. I will keep at it and hope for the best. Are replacement screws available do you know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_hopper Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 Definitely not from Minolta. If your's is a 101 with a black shutterspeed dial barrel (versus a silver barrel) and flat-slotted external body screws, Minolta's callout for these JIS screws was "B21-1.7x3(Cr)". A possible source might be a repair shop that's been in business for 30-plus years, worked on older Sr-T's, and kept a stock of salvaged or NOS JIS screws. Another might be eB*y for a parts (non-working but complete) early black dial SR-T101 body matching yours, or maybe/possibly a parts SR-7V body (late model with sloped nameplate: think this model maybe used same JIS body screws). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_heil1 Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 i have a HiMatic E which is completely in pieces in plastic bags, and minus the lens. Should have most of the screws. May be the right vintage if someone has a manual set. Be happy to send it on to whoever could use it. Cost of postage? BTW i am thinking of buying one of the 2 CD sets of all the manuals. i presume $10 is well worth it? Also, dunno if they make them that small, but there are screw remover bits... Very hard steel that bites right into the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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