Fast maxxum mount mid-telephoto

[jeffery_pool]

I shoot alot of low available light stuff, like concerts and smaller shows. I've been using the

50mm 1.7 for small venues and for when I can get really close, but I would like something

longer for the bigger concerts. I have a 70-210 F4 which is a nice everday lens, but it is too

slow, even when shooting at 1600 and 3200. I know Minolta's made a lot of nice lenses in the

past so just checking on their website isn't a complete answer. Can anyone give me any

comments on the 100-150 range of lenses that minolta has made? I used to see alot of

135mm 2.8's on ebay but haven't for awhile.

[cmphoto1]

The 135mm f2.8 is a good lens and there are still a few around. There are a few 100mm f2.0s out there. Supposed to be one of the sharpest lenses Minolta ever made. But, be warned: it is rare and therefore not cheap.

 

Another option might be to get an f2.8 80-200mm zoom. There are a number made by Sigma and Tokina and a little more common and about half the price as Minolt'?s version.

 

chad

[bill_thorlin]

There are 2 versions of the 135 f2.8,and also a 100 f2.8 soft focus and three versions of the 100 macro 2.8 which have dual usage via the focus limiter.

 

Have the macro which is top class and the others are reputed to be as good.There are not that many around and none of them are cheap - you get what you pay for.

[michael_hohner]

There's only one version of the 135/2.8. But there is also the 135/2.8 [T4.5] STF, which is a completely different lens.

[ilkka]

Isn't there also a 2/100 lens? That should be a jewel for available light.

[bill_thorlin]

Yes - Chad covered it in his post.

[scott_lewis3]

I guess 85mm to short for you because the best fast prime from minolta has to be the 85mm

[chris_at_vividoptic.com]

For why you need it, the 135/2.8 is the obvious choice. And recommended. Still a few around.

 

The 100/2 is rare now. Extra stop, 9 blades instead of 7. Would be great .... may take some time to find.

 

Avoid macro lenses - too slow at AF.

[greg_heil1]

i am too poor to have anything but leftovers in the eBay parts bin. However i have been doing ok with a borrowed 7D over the last week. The owner bought a Tamron 28-300f3.5-6.3 which is basically useless for events like that indoors. But i have two primes, with oily irises that won't stop down: 28f2.8 and 50f.14. i also have a doubler and a kyocera front mounted .8x, and a Ricoh TC-200m front mounted 2X. All of these mix and match keeping me under 2.8 from 22mm->200mm in jagged steps. Mostly i manage to keep under ISO 800 while shooting 1/25th or so. Good enough to freeze enough shots that if i take a bunch i get one. So it can be done for virtually nothing... in candlelight. While primes are a rich mans game, they can also work for a poor man, just forget about the 35f1.4 and 85f1.4's etc.

 

my own cam is an A1, and i get by by putting it in S mode for 1/20s shots. Basically it is forced to choose ISO and that is fast enough that with a crop of shots i get keepers. With the 7D i can't really do it that simple, because it thinks it can stop down the primes, which it can't - so it over exposes. Sure would make life a lot simpler if there were a way to just tell the 7D the lens cannot stop down. i guess turning the exposure knob is faster than menu jumping the ISO, but the jpe becomes useless then. i guess i need to abandon chimping, unless someone has a better idea. Sure would be nice to program ones own rules into the exposure computer!

[jpursley]

I'd also vote for the 100mm f/2.0. It's heavy (about 3 times the weight of the 50mm 1.7), but it sounds like you could use the speed.

[bacsa]

the 135/2.8 is a very good lens. Sure, the 100/2 is faster and might be even sharper, but i have only seen ONE for sale in my whole life (in an english shop) and it went quite expensive.

 

I've never had one shot that was not good because the 135/2.8 was not good enough.