anti shake tests?

[ron c sunshine coast,qld,a]

Does anyone know of any online tests of the antishake system using

various lenses?

<P>I'm especially interested in just how good it may or may not be

with longer lenses as there has been alot of talk about it (but i've

seen no evidence so far) Thanks for any help!

[rude boy]

I hope you haven't found this already, although its an obvious source:

 

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/konicaminolta7d/page19.asp

 

Although an excellent series of tests, does nothing to answer the question regarding long lenses.

 

I am out of town at the moment, sans long lenses. I can always do a test for you when I get back in town.

[peterblaise]

anti shake tests?

 

.

 

Hi Ron,

 

Buy it and try it! ;-)

 

The only "evidence" that matters is the experience you provide for yourself to your own standards.

 

It all depends on your own hand shaking, heart rate and muscle pulsing AND the weight of whatever camera and lens you choose, how stable you hold it, and how near or far is your subject, and how sharp your focus is and how free from movement is the subject and how much you enlarge your image capture and what are your standards for sharpness and resolution and ISO versus noise levels you find acceptable and so on ... too many variables for anyone to make ONE scientific test that matches all real life situations each different user may prefer.

 

TELL US MORE:

 

Why don't you tell us what kind of lenses and subjects and ISO and so on you are interested in? The more specific your question, the less any of us have to do to guess what you are really after? Is 135mm long to you? 1,200mm? ISO 50? ISO 6400? What available light levels are you planning on shooting in? Can you even focus in some low light levels? What? You tell us!

 

What system are you using now? What are you comparing to? Perhaps NO 35mm based system will meet your criteria. Perhaps even the cheapest Konica Minolta DiMage integrated digital camera will be far more than you need.

 

Also, go to

 

http://konicaminolta.com/products/consumer/digital_camera/slr/index.html

 

... and look at the sample pictures from the KMADM7D Konica Minolta Alpha Dynax Maxxum 7 Digital and KMDMS5D Konica Minolta Dynax Maxxum Sweet 5 Digital. They offer real pictures from the cameras. But, they're not YOUR pictures, and you have no idea how their shooting situation corresponds to yours.

 

Also, don't forget that ALL hand-held lenses attached to these cameras function with antishake, not just a few specialized lenses - including inexpensive 500mm f/8 T-mount (Tamron-style) mirror lenses usually findable new and used for ~$99US - wow! Of course Minolta makes the ONLY AUTOFOCUS version of this type of lens if you want superior automation.

 

Gosh, SMALL 500mm f/8 AUTO focus ANTI shake digital - only from the Mind of Minolta! ;-)

 

 

Click!

 

Love and hugs

 

Peter Blaise peterblaise@yahoo.com Minolta Photographer http://www.peterblaisephotography.com/

 

PS - Most reviewers say that the Konica Minolta Anti Shake system offers 2 to 3 stops slower shutter speed than expected can be obtained compared to approximately the same image taken without anti shake. Their subjective feeling is that the effectiveness lessens somewhat with focal length, so the 2-stop advantage may be for the reviewer's longest focal length experiences, and the 3-stop advantage may be for their shorter focal length experiences.

 

I look forward to you sharing YOUR experience with us as you learn what you are after in this thread!

[scott_lewis3]

here is a nice example

 

http://www.pbase.com/merriwolf/image/27509593

 

it works well and worth a few extra bucks in your camera.

[ron c sunshine coast,qld,a]

<P> Hey Richard i may take you up on that offer!

<BR>Thanks for all comments/help so far.

<P>I've seen the dpreview test and it tells me alot about potential performance for shorter lenses.It's good enough/better than i need at such focal lengths so my buying decisions will have to be made soley on how well it performs at longer focal lengths such as 300-500mm.

<BR>Peter you say that you've heard it's worth about 2 stops at 500mm,which would be adequite for my needs...but anything less would not be worth it.

<BR>I've so far heard talk of about only 1 stop (!) or less benifit at about 500mm focal lengths.If true that would make changing brands simply not worth it!That's why i really need to see some solid tests before making such a big decision.

<P>If reasonably well done -like the dpreview example- such tests are certainly usefull .The important factors are to do multiple shots at each shutter speed,and to use several testers -preferably one with good lens holding technique and one that NEEDS antishake :)

<BR>Then post the results for both testers showing the best and worst shots along with data on strike rates,etc

[chris_at_vividoptic.com]

<a href="http://www.aliasimages.com/KM7D_AS_Test.htm">http://www.aliasimages.com/KM7D_AS_Test.htm</a>

[peterblaise]

.

 

Chris,

 

Why not TRY IT for yourself?

 

I spoke of a 1/2-size MIRROR lens which I can hand hold at slow shutter speeds anyway without "anti shake" since it's SMALL. NO other manufacturer BUT Minolta makes an auto focus mirror lens anyway - does THAT clinch the deal for you?

 

Why not go to your local dealer (or buy with 14 day return) the system in question, slap on a lens you think you'll use and walk around the camera store or wherever and shoot a CF card full of RAW imagas that plassse you and match your image taking style, then go home and play with 'em on screen, and then, MOST importantly - PRINT to your final output size.

 

THEN decide - and tell us what you do.

 

You're NOT gonna get stuck on ONE feature/benefit, are you? A camera system is a SYSTEM, so it's real easy to get caught in comparing uncomparable features and benefits from different systems. All thigs being equal, nothing is EVER equal! How important is DIRECT KNOB control, remote wireless flash? How important are the other features of the system?

 

As an alternative, if you have a budget - and I think you are looking for a way to save THOUSANDS of dollars in IS/VR/OS lenses - that's what you are doing, right? - why not consider a gyroscope that fits ANY camera - see http://www.ken-lab.com/html/tips_and_tricks.html for the Ken Labs KS4 ~$2,400.

 

Now I think you are asking,

 

"What system will alow me to take 500mm grab shots without a tripod down to the slowest shutter speed?"

 

... missing from the criteria is: image qualities for final image display, available lighting, aperture range of whatever 500mm lens you might acquire, weight and size of the hand held system - caryability, ISO and noise levels that satisfy you, and so on.

 

Perhaps the integrated super zoom EVF Electronic View Finder digital cameras (NO mirror slap) with "stabilization" of any type from Panasonic, Kodak, and Konica Minolta, and so on will sufice?

 

Let us know how you progress with this hunt!

 

Click!

 

Love and hugs,

 

Peter Blaise peterblaise@yahoo.com Minolta Photographer http://www.peterblaisephotography.com/

[peterblaise]

.

 

I'm sorry, my above post is to RON, the original poster, not Chris who also is a responder to RON..

[chris_at_vividoptic.com]

"I'm sorry, my above post is to RON, the original poster, not Chris who also is a responder to RON.."

 

Good! I've been trying AS myself on my 7D for nearly 5000 frames already 4786 at the moment.

 

Er, it works! 2 stops for my 200mm. 3 stops for the 28mm. Assum that you are using the converted focal length. So a 28mm you should start at 1/30 and count your 3 stop advantage. Got 28>42mm and treat 1/45 as the base, then you will get 3 stops from there for hand-holding.

 

Likewise the other lenses

[ron c sunshine coast,qld,a]

That is an excellent link Chris-ans also thanks for sharing your experience

<P>Anybody want to do a test at about 500mm? :)