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Advice on manual body to comlement X-700 gear & maybe Astrophotography?


drjedsmith

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After I sold my Maxxum 7 gear, I thought I was going to buy an A1 or

A2, but after holding them in my hand, I decided I'll wait until the

fall for the DSLR.<BR><BR>

While I wait, I'm looking for another manual body to complement my

existing gear, so I can have color film in one, and b&w in the

other. This is my current setup, all purchased by Dad back in

the '80s :<BR>

Body: X-700<BR>

Lenses: Minolta 50mm f1.7, Kiron 28mm f2, Kiron 70-150mm f4 macro,

Vivitar 85-205mm f3.8<BR>

Flash: Vivitar Auto Thyristor 550FD<BR><BR>

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for my second body, and possibly a

lens I'm missing to complete my setup? I'm thinking maybe an X11 or

something similar. I shoot mostly in A priority mode.<BR>

I'm also thinking about getting into astrophotography, so would need

something that accepts a remote cord...and possibly mirror lockup,

but I don't think Minotla does that.<BR>

Thanks,<BR>

Jed

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Why don't you get a (working!!!) SRT body. It's all mechanical so you can "complement" the x-700 a.k.a. save yourself if battery dies out in a bad moment; most of them do have (yes they do) mirror lockup. They are cheap too. No aperture priority, tho'...
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<p>First, go carefully when choosing an SRT if mirror lockup is an absolute priority - not all of them do it by any means.</p>

 

<p>Here's a useful page I've referred to in the past:</p>

 

<p><a href="http://home.pcisys.net/~rlsnpjs/minolta/srt.html">http://home.pcisys.net/~rlsnpjs/minolta/srt.html</a>

</p>

 

<p>

Second, I'd consider a brand new X-370s while Minolta still make them (they seem to be selling them in Europe). Alternatively, the Centon DF-300 (which is a Seagull - they made the X-370 under license I believe) is a great, surprisingly solid minolta clone, and is my current macro experimentation camera. No mirror lockup, mind.

</p>

 

<p>

Alternatively, pester Mr Kobayashi of Cosina for an MD mount Bessaflex! :)

</p>

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Your X-700 and the XD-11/7 you're considering are electronic based (and dependent) shutter- and aperture-priority multimode-AE MF cameras, the SR-T's were mechanical single-mode non-AE MF cameras (not dependent on electronics for basic function). Only the earlier SR-7 (without internal meter), most SR-T 101 and some SR-T 102/Super/303 have mirror lockup (MLU): Minolta stopped including MLU during the 102's run, be careful when shopping and ask the seller if it has MLU. These MLU SR-T102's are the most full-featured of the SR-T lines. No later XK's, XE's, XD's, XG's or X-series Minoltas have MLU. And, the SR-T's would need a mechanical remote release, the X-700 and XD-11 can use electronic or IR release.
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To get Mirror Lock-Up, you will need either an early SRT-101 or SRT-102. But these cameras are completely manual, and do not provide Aperture Priority mode. But, the truth is, you don't need MLU for astrophotography. Any camera with Bulb or Time will work with what is known as the Hat Trick. I.e. when beginning a time exposure, cover the front of the telescope or tele lens with an opaque black hat. Once the camera has settled for a few seconds after the mirror has fired, remove the hat from the front of the lens or scope. That way, the vibrations caused by the mirror will have damped out before the actual exposure begins.

 

Given that, any good Minolta will do fine for you. Personally, I would recommend the X-570 as the most practical and inexpensive of the MF bodies out there.

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well, I'd suggest a completely different approach. If you ARE going to buy a DSLR in the future, let's say the maxxum DSLR, why don't you start building an AF system. If you buy lenses now with a film AF body, you could use them later on your DSLR. I think you could use your x-700 for astrophotography, but don't know about battery consumption and don't know if a MD-1 would substitute the alkaline cells. I'd suggest a 'decent' use AF body and an AF 50mm f1.7 to start with. I'd give thumbs up for a 600si, you can get that combination in Mint condition for less than $150. SO, what you think?
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Thanks for the suggestions so far. First, I'd like to wait until the DSLR is out before I build an AF setup. For my kind of (small scale) photography, I didn't really see any big advantage of the Maxxum 7 over the X-700, so I sold it.<BR><BR>

Thanks for the "HAT TRICK" - that just might be my ticket! :-)<BR>

I read the XD-11 has 2 shutter speeds (100 and Bulb) that are mechanical! That's exactly what I need (bulb mechanical setting), plus it has the added features like the X-700, right?<BR>

I guess I just don't think I could shoot in ONLY manual mode all the time - so probably won't get a SRT.<BR><BR>

 

Could someone please rate the X-700, XD-11, and X-570 as far as the feel and operation? I can't find as much info on the 570 as the two other choices...<BR>

Thanks for the help,<BR>

Jed

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Judged just as cameras, the XD-11 is the best camera among those choices. Many people believe (myself included) that it's one of the very best cameras Minolta ever made. However, nice ones are somewhat collectible, and the ones that are typically available on the used market are often either cosmetically ugly (especially since the fake leather covering often shrinks severely) or else they have some operational problems because they've been significantly used. I would also suggest that the XD-5 ought to be on your list, as it is very similar to the XD-11, except for not having the f-stop visible in the finder. Since it is less collectible than the XD-11, and typically saw lighter use by less serious photographers, you can generally find nicer ones on the 2nd hand market for less than the XD-11. The other issue with the XD-11 and XD-5 is that they are becoming hard to get repairs for, while the X-700 and X-570 are still not difficult to get repaired.

 

The X-570 is very similar to the X-700, with two main differences: The X-700 has Programmed exposure mode while the X-570 does not. But, surprisingly, the X-570 has superior viewfinder information for metered-manual mode, with all the camera's settings visible, and the correct exposure is indicated when LEDs line up. Otherwise, the X-570 and the X-700 are basically the same.

 

If I were ranking them, in absolute terms, I'd say: XD-11 is the best, then the XD-5, then the X-570, then the X-700. However all of these cameras are VERY CLOSE in overall capability.

 

In terms of practicality and value, I'd rank the X-570 first, then the XD-5 and X-700 tied, then the XD-11 last, simply because nice condition ones are a bit more expensive.

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I appreciate all the discussion - I think the XD-11 is what I really want, but have a hard time justifying it when I can get the X-570 for a fraction of the cost!<BR><BR>

 

Is there any reason why the XG-M and X-570 are so cheap? Also, does every SRT have the "battery problem" that I've read about?<BR>

Thanks for your time,<BR>

Jed

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OK, after reading some more, I've got the choice down to the XD-11 or an SRT. I guess I don't need more than 1 camera with "auto" mode, so I have decided to include the SRT as a possibility, because it seems so well loved, all mechanical, and I found 1.35V batteries on Ebay!<BR><BR>

I like the fact that both of these cameras can function without batteries if needed. (Limited on XD-11).<BR><BR>

If price is taken out of the picture, which camera would be best, either an XD-11 or SRT, considering I alrady have the X-700?

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Hi, I have used both cameras. I started with a XD-11. It is a wonderful camera, however, you have mentioned that you didn't go for the A1 or A2 for the feel in your hands. The SRTs are way bulkier than the XD-11 and heavier. However, somehow I like that. Not that I have big hands, but if you attach a zoom to the XD-11 it might feel smaller than it is. The feel of the XD-11 is not very different from the X-700, but keep in mind that a SRT is bigger and heavier. Probably you'd like that too.
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The only reason that X-570 and XG-M cameras are so cheap, is that they are not collectibles, and generally seen as amateur cameras. While the X-700 and XD-5/7/11 are seen as more serious cameras, by the market at large. However, I personally would prefer the X-570 over the X-700 even at the same price, in the same condition, because I personally am MUCH more likely to use metered manual mode (where the X-570 shines due to complete finder info) than program mode (which only the X-700 offers). In fact, I sold my X-700 and kept my X-570 for exactly that reason (plus the fact that an X-700 sells for at least $50 more than an X-570 in the market). But other than those two modes, the cameras are the same.

 

As for SRTs, they are great cameras, but they ALL used 625 mercury batteries. In fact, there is a perfectly good workaround, which is to use inexpensive and widely available 675-size Zinc-Air hearing aid batteries, with a spacer in the battery chamber. A #9 rubber O-ring, available at Home Depot or any plumbing supply store, for well under a dollar, makes the perfect spacer for the battery chamber.

 

The other issue with SRTs is that they are all pretty old. Undoubtedly, the light seals around the back door and the mirror bumper will be degraded and need replacing, but these are easy fixes. More problematical, is that many of these cameras will not work properly at the fastest 1/500 and 1/1000 shutter speeds, because the curtains have slowed down as the shutter springs have weakened and the bearings have stiffened over time. Of course, that's not an issue for astrophotography, but I have found on average, any typical SRT that you might find at a garage sale or on ebay, its about 60-75% likely that the 1/1000 speed will not work properly, and about 25-35% likely that the 1/500 speed won't work. In all likelihood, the other speeds will work fine, but in the worst cases, even the 1/250 speed is affected, and a basic CLA might or might not fix this problem. Still, if you could find a nice Minolta SRT-101 body in nice shape, even if it suffers from this problem, it could make a great astrophotography camera, and you shouldn't have to pay more than $50 or so for an SRT-101 body. Note, be sure you don't get one of the LATE SRT-101 bodies that has a hot shoe. If an SRT-101 has a hot (rather than cold) flash shoe, it doesn't have Mirror Lock-Up, as Minolta got rid of that feature late in the camera's lifespan.

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I should add that the SRT-303 and SRT-Super are identical to the SRT-102, but originally sold in other geographies besides the US, or to stores under private label agreements. These cameras (except for the latest ones, and the SRT-101, also except for the latest ones, had the MLU feature).
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Jedidiah: I see you are narrowing your choices down away from X-bodies, but let me add this for the archives.

<p>

In the X-570 etc, the shutter is held open with an electromagnet. If you are doing extremely long exposures (to get star circles) it represents a drain on the batteries. Those little bitty batteries don't last forever.

<p>

A work-around is to use the version of the Autowinder base that has an extension that goes into the battery compartment of the camera. This way you have 4 AA-cells keeping the shutter open. Certainly enough for an 8 hour exposure.

<p>

Called the Auto Winder GP in the <a href="http://www.rokkorfiles.com/X%20series%20accessories.html">ROKKOR Files.</a>

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What's good for conventional photography is not always best for astrophotography. I have an X-700, SRT 201, and an XD-5. The bright XD-5 screen makes focusing my 35-135 Minolta and 70-210 Tokina a pleasure, but lacks contrast compared to the screens in my other two Minoltas. When attached to my Celestron 90 Astro,( 1000 mm f11), it is difficult to find precise focus compared to my SRT or X700. The light weight of the X-700 doesn't throw the balance of the scope off as much as the XD-5 or SRT so the scope tracks better. Solution: I use them all: SRT for piggybacked long exposures, X-700 for Jupiter's moons and Venus' phases, and XD-5 for lunar and solar photography.
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