Using Curves with Nikon 9000 before/after scan

[ben_grisso]

<p>Most of my 6x6 negs are multiple exposure. The default scans with Nikon software and 9000 scanner come out pretty light. With adjustments after the scan in photoshop I can get good prints, but it would probably be better to get the original scans into more optimal zone and require less manipulation of the data after the fact (I do always scan 16 bit to help with this).<br>

When I did my scans I was too lazy to preview first, then apply curves or other adjustment, then scan, instead I just hit the scan button each time without preview, as this was much faster, and the results OK.<br>

I just opened some of the raw scans (TIF) in the nikon software and noticed it allows you to do the same kinds of adjustments (curves, etc) on the file AFTER it has been scanned as it does before. I'm wondering if this is kind of like a raw file, that you can non-destructively edit with whatever information the scanner has captured and is available in the nikon software, or is the nikon software simply adjusting the image like any image editing software (photoshop) would do?<br>

As I type this it sounds like wishful thinking and I'm almost positive it's just editing the image like photoshop, but I wanted to check before I take the time to go back and do custom scans of each individual neg, using preview and curves prior to the scan.<br>

<br />thx<br>

Ben</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>For optimum results, I'd say to learn how to set the exposure level down on the scanner.<br>

Otherwise, Lightroom and other graphics processing files allow for one or another kind of non-destructive editing. At the worst, you just have to remember to "save as" after you start to edit.</p>

[AlanKlein]

<p>The problem with doing adjustments during the scan is the results are baked in. Post processing might not correct the damage you did with adjustments made during the scan. At a minimum in reduces the flexibility you have in post. </p>

<p>While I don't use a 9000 but rather a V600 flat bed, I mostly scan "flat" with all adjustments turned off during the scan. That includes ICE, sharpening as well as all the lighting and curves. I do all adjustments afterwards in Lightroom or Photoshop Elements or NIK etc. </p>

<p>You might try it both ways and see which works best for you. Good luck.</p>