Minolta SRT-101 Repair

[daniel_miller10]

<p>Hello all!</p>

<p>I have a Minolta SRT-101 that I found in the attic. Externally, it is in beautiful shape, but it needs a little work internally. I know that the light meter is off, that the viewfinder needs to be cleaned, and that the transparent piece of plastic on the back of the viewfinder needs to be realigned and glued back into place. I didn't notice any light leaks, but it might make sense to replace the seals anyways. I also wouldn't mind getting the shutter timings checked. I own an F3 and a more recent '90s Canon, but I'm really quite fond of the Minolta and want to pay for the repair, even though I know its probably cheaper to just replace it entirely. Where can I get this worked on?</p>

<p>A place in the NYC tri-state area or upstate NY would be great, but I am more than willing to mail it out to somewhere reputable. The only place that I will not use is Marty's Camera in NYC, which lost my 58mm f1.2 and refused to replace it (I'm going to be bitter about that for a very long time).</p>

<p>Thanks everyone!</p>

[rossb]

<p>Garry's camera will repair the camera, clean it, adjust it and such for $45.00. They also charge $8.00 for return shipping. He will turn it around within 7 days. I have had them repair maybe 5 camera's for me over the years. Currently shooting a Nikon FM2n that they did a CLA for me about a year ago. Just google it up. You can talk with them via email first if you want to and they have a repair form to fill out and send with the camera. </p>

[User_502260]

<p>I can recommend John Titterington without hesitation. John has serviced many Minoltas for me and did excellent work on every one. His contact information is 8109 Wenonga Road Leawood, Kansas 66206 - JTCamera@aol.com</p>

[david_stanton1]

<p>I don't know Mr. Titterington, but I can second the recommendation of Garry's Camera. The price is fixed based on the model and brand of the camera, which eliminates any uncertainty. The service is fast.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Just be aware that eBay "Sold" prices for this camera are currently "trending" at ca. US$50, and some have been sold for what I call a "1 or 2-pizza" price.<br>

It is nice to fix up an aging one, but it's hard to justify on a strict dollars and cents sense. :)</p>

<p>It is definitely a "classic" and famous photographers started with one of these.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>I have made this comment more than once before but I don't agree that buying another old camera on eBay for X dollars makes more sense than having a different one serviced. Film and processing is no longer inexpensive. It makes more sense to me to have proper service done on an old camera so I can enjoy it and use it with confidence than than to get a series of old cameras which I know nothing about and which may not work properly. Even if the old cameras on eBay were free, film and processing still aren't. </p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>Before I discovered a camera repair guru here locally (in Vancouver, BC), I had John Titterington CLA one of my Canon FD bodies, and he did an excellent job.</p>

<p>The SRT-101 was my father's first SLR. He bought it in the late 60's, and used it heavily into the 80's. But, alas, it's now long gone, having corroded internally due to all the salt air he used to shoot in. But a few years ago I found a nice clean one, had it CLA'ed, and gave it to him as a gift. Needless to say, he was very happy. It's definitely a classic camera.</p>

[gary_hudes]

Can the electronics be repaired in the SLT-101? My copy has a moving exposure target loop that changes position with adjustment of the shutter speed and lens aperture, but the needle does not move and no lights come come on in the viewfinder when the camera is turned 'on'. The battery is new, and I cleaned the contacts. I'm not sure if this is a wiring circuit issue or if LEDs are burned out. Or if this can be done?

[murray_twelves2]

Gary, the electronics in an SR-T 101 are very simple and in most cases would be repairable. One common problem with old SR-Ts is the CdS cells coming unglued. Another possible problem is a jolt to the camera moving the metering needle off it's pivot. These and most other problems should be repairable.

 

Note that SR-Ts have no LEDs or other internal lumination.

 

- Murray

[gary_hudes]

Many thanks, Murray. I am going to send it out for repair.

[brett_rogers]

Can the electronics be repaired in the SLT-101? My copy has a moving exposure target loop that changes position with adjustment of the shutter speed and lens aperture, but the needle does not move and no lights come come on in the viewfinder when the camera is turned 'on'. The battery is new, and I cleaned the contacts. I'm not sure if this is a wiring circuit issue or if LEDs are burned out. Or if this can be done?

Gary,<BR><BR>

If the meter needle does not move at all there is a fairly good chance that there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the metering system and that the needle itself is simply stuck.

These were very well made cameras and one of the things Minolta did was to fit small pieces of foam at the ends of the meter scale to act as shock absorbers if the camera suffered a shock of some type such as being dropped. You could say the foam was intended to prevent just what Murray mentioned as a possibility, Ie. the needle pivot being shaken off its mount in the galvanometer. <BR><BR>

 

This is evidence of sound design and Minolta's commitment to making a really durable product—unfortunately, decades later, the deteriorating foam becomes rather sticky and when the meter needle rests off for any length of time, if you go to use it the needle won't respond because it simply can't move. It will be stuck tight to the foam.

<BR><BR>

Although it means removing the top cover, the solution is usually as simple as carefully removing the original foam remnants, cutting and installing some new replacements and your meter will be as good as new.

<BR><BR>

In some cases the small sub prisms that the CDS meter cells were fitted into will have suffered deterioration of the optical cement used to attach them to the main pentaprism glass. You'll usually know this because the originally clear adhesive starts to go opaque and inadequate light ratio hits the cells, resulting in a meter system that will permanently act like it is darker than it really is and encourage over exposure. This one is a little more involved to fix however by removing the cell prisms and the remnant adhesive (acetone would probably work if kept away from the cells themselves) the cleaned glass can then be re-attached to the pentaprism and meter accuracy will be restored. <BR><BR>

An experienced repairer should be able to attend to either or both of these tasks without too much difficulty. I've done the first, but not the second, but would confidently tackle it if needed. While the top cover is off a general clean of the prism glass and focus screen can and should be done. <BR><BR>

Cheers

Brett<BR>

[gary_hudes]

Many thanks, Brett. This information about the meter design and operation is most helpful!

Gary

 

 

Gary,<BR><BR>

If the meter needle does not move at all there is a fairly good chance that there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the metering system and that the needle itself is simply stuck.

These were very well made cameras and one of the things Minolta did was to fit small pieces of foam at the ends of the meter scale to act as shock absorbers if the camera suffered a shock of some type such as being dropped. You could say the foam was intended to prevent just what Murray mentioned as a possibility, Ie. the needle pivot being shaken off its mount in the galvanometer. <BR><BR>

 

This is evidence of sound design and Minolta's commitment to making a really durable product—unfortunately, decades later, the deteriorating foam becomes rather sticky and when the meter needle rests off for any length of time, if you go to use it the needle won't respond because it simply can't move. It will be stuck tight to the foam.

<BR><BR>

Although it means removing the top cover, the solution is usually as simple as carefully removing the original foam remnants, cutting and installing some new replacements and your meter will be as good as new.

<BR><BR>

In some cases the small sub prisms that the CDS meter cells were fitted into will have suffered deterioration of the optical cement used to attach them to the main pentaprism glass. You'll usually know this because the originally clear adhesive starts to go opaque and inadequate light ratio hits the cells, resulting in a meter system that will permanently act like it is darker than it really is and encourage over exposure. This one is a little more involved to fix however by removing the cell prisms and the remnant adhesive (acetone would probably work if kept away from the cells themselves) the cleaned glass can then be re-attached to the pentaprism and meter accuracy will be restored. <BR><BR>

An experienced repairer should be able to attend to either or both of these tasks without too much difficulty. I've done the first, but not the second, but would confidently tackle it if needed. While the top cover is off a general clean of the prism glass and focus screen can and should be done. <BR><BR>

Cheers

Brett<BR>

[Matthew Currie]

Although it's likely a much more expensive proposition, it appears that LeZot camera, now in Williston, Vermont, is doing full restorations of some older cameras and one of their specialties is old SRT Minoltas. I think they have a fixed price of $195, which includes a complete strip down, rebuild, recalibration, and whatnot and a one year warranty. Might be worth looking in to. They also do conventional repairs.

[gary_hudes]

I will investigate all of these repair people, options. Other than the meter problem, the camera is in very good shape with shutter that sounds good (but worth checking the speeds), and a few small dust specks in the viewfinder. Definitely worth servicing. Thank you.