How to adapt a V lens and TC combo to a MILC?

[dshih]

<p>We all know that the Hasselblad teleconverter needs to be put onto a Hasselblad body first and then we can put the Hasselblad tele lens onto the teleconverter. But if I intend to use the CFi/CFE lens and the 1.4XE TC combo adapted to a MILC, what can I do? Of course, I don't like to carry a 503CW just to assemble and disassemble the combo.</p>

<p>If I put a lens to the TC or remove a lens from the TC without a camera, what will happen? Will this damage the cocking mechanism in the lens or TC? I'm afraid there is more risks than simply triggering the shutter that I can cock again with a coin. Will setting the shutter to the F position help?</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/994964-REG/fotodiox_hassy_v_nex_p_adapter_for_hasselblad_v.html</p>

<p>This V to E adapter does not engage the cocking mechanism of the lens or TC. The normal procedure of mounting the TC first then lens is a precaution against accidentally tripping the lens when the assembly is attached to the camera, which can cause a jam. That should not be an issue with the adapter.</p>

<p>If the lens were to trip, simply cock it using the coupling on the TC. There's nothing to jam on the adapter or Sony.</p>

<p>For cameras other than E-mount Sony, you may need two adapters - E to X and X to Hasselblad.</p>

[tom_chow]

<blockquote>

<p>If I put a lens to the TC or remove a lens from the TC without a camera, what will happen? Will this damage the cocking mechanism in the lens or TC? I'm afraid there is more risks than simply triggering the shutter that I can cock again with a coin. Will setting the shutter to the F position help?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>What Edward said about the Hasselblad to Sony adapter is correct, but you will <strong><em>still</em></strong> have issues with the 1.4XE TC to CF lens connection. Basically you can connect a cocked CF lens to a cocked 1.4XE TC, the issue is when you disconnect them, the lens shutter will trigger (If you listen carefully, you will hear the lens shutter trigger). If you then try to reconnect them, you run a high chance of jamming them as the lens in now un-cocked. You must re-cock the lens before you reconnect it to anything. This involves rotating the key at the back of the lens, which can be done using a coin. F dose not change anything.</p>

<p>It's not a big issue, but when you are working fast, there's a good chance you'll eventually forget to re-cock the lens, and then the chance of the lens jamming is higher (it doesn't always jam, only when you force it...).</p>

[dshih]

<p>As there is nothing in the lens side of the adapter, mounting a TC to the adapter and then a lens to the TC is like directly mounting a lens to the TC in the air. If there is something in the lens side of the adpater to probably HOLD the cocking shaft of the TC, the adapter is likely to work as a camera.</p>

<p>Isn't the accidental release of lens shutter (when disconnecting a lens and TC combo) due to the movement of the cocking shaft probably in the wrong direction?</p>

<p>And, I guess the F position may act as a clutch to disengage the lens shutter from the cocking shaft so that with a 200 series camera users can cock the focal shutter without again cocking the lens shutter that is already cocked.</p>

<p>This is why I asked if the F position might help. The cocking shaft was moved during disconnection of the lens and the TC combo in the air, but the movement now won't trigger the shutter as the F position serves as a clutch that has disengaged the shutter from the cocking shaft. Wrong? Why the lens shutter is to be triggered when disconnecting the combo?</p>

[tom_chow]

<blockquote>

<p>Isn't the accidental release of lens shutter (when disconnecting a lens and TC combo) due to the movement of the cocking shaft probably in the wrong direction?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No, it is the little pin/lever that unlocks the key, which is protected by a half collar. When you remove the TC from the lens, and the TC is not on the body, that pin is still engaged on the lens, hence the key is released and the lens uncocks. This in itself is not an issue, the problem comes when you try to install and uncocked lens onto the body - a little to much force and you jam the 2 together. (Actually I think it is the other way around - a cocked lens onto an unwound body is more likely to jam)</p>

<p>The key must be aligned to mount/dismount the lens, as it can only (dis)engage when the key is aligned in the rotation plane. Any misalignment of the key (on either the body or lens) will prevent you from mounting/unmounting the lens.</p>

<p>The Key is multi-purpose. It:<br>

- cocks the shutter spring<br>

- closes the aperture to set value<br>

- pre-closes the shutter in C mode<br>

- trigger the shutter in C more<br>

- re-opens the aperture in F mode<br>

These are based on the rotation or position of the key, which is controlled by the body.</p>

<p>In F mode, the key still rotates, closes the aperture, trips the shutter spring (but the leaf shutter did not close in the first place) and re-opens the aperture.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>You can't jam an uncocked lens by attempting to mount it. The cocking shaft will be rotated and will not engage the corresponding shaft in the adapter or camera. It simply won't fit.</p>

<p>The most serious jam occurs when the lens is somehow tripped as it is being attached or removed. the two shafts may lock together so that the lens can't be cocked nor rotated in its mount. The pin referred to in the preceding post is an extension of a latch which engages the cocking shaft. It may trip during assembly if it is bent or worn. It is supposed to be disengaged just as the assembly is completed, by a pin in the female part of the mount.</p>

<p>The adapter has no shaft or pin, so that won't present a problem. There's nothing to trip the lens nor jam.</p>

[tom_chow]

<p>As Edward said, the Hasselblad to MILC adapter has no pins. No problem.</p>

<p>Unfortunately the Hasselblad 1.4XE Tele-Converter dose have the full complement of pins and key, and can trip the lens when detached off camera.</p>

<p>There are 3 pins/key on the hasselblad lens interface (depending on age)<br /> 1 rotating key<br /> 1 key release pin<br /> 1 guide pin. (ed: I don't think your CW has this pin, my CX has it, but most GMS cameras don't...)<br /> (There is a 4th lock pin from the early lenses that are no longer used - probably should be called the 1st pin?)</p>

<p>The guide pin sits in front of the key on the body, and prevents an uncocked lens from mounting as the slot is not aligned with that pin. However, I have seen people get the lens past that pin when things are worn or slightly mis-adjusted, and the operator is forceful, so I've learned not to say never.</p>

<p>The worst jamming issue occurs with a cocked lens is mounted on an uncocked body. As you mount the lens, the heel of the body key trips the key release pin in the lens, and the key on the lens starts to rotate. If you are mounting the lens in a hurry, the slot in the lens key enters the body guide pin before it rotates enough to be blocked, but then it rotates such that it traps the guide pin, which locks your lens in a not quite mounted position. The only way to remove the lens is by force, or dismantling. The key is not engaged with the body key, so you cannot use the special tool (or screw driver) to rotate the body pin so the lens can be released.</p>

<p>However, you are not likely to encounter this with the Lens & TC issue.</p>

<p>In <strong>F-mode</strong>, the shutter stays open whether the lens is cocked or not, so you can use it on a MILC, But the aperture will <em><strong>not</strong></em> stop down if the lens is uncocked. Thus when/if the lens trips removing it from the tele-converter, you'll have to re-cock the shutter if you want anything other than wide open.</p>

[dshih]

<p>The screw driver and the pin in the front side of the 1.4XE look the same as those in the mount of the 503CW. Removing a lens from a camera won't trigger the shutter. Why does removing a lens from a TC not on camera trigger the shutter? They look being of the same connecting mechanism.</p>

<p>And, while mounting a lens to a TC not on camera won't trigger the shutter, why does removing trigger the shutter?</p>

[tom_chow]

<blockquote>

<p>And, while mounting a lens to a TC not on camera won't trigger the shutter, why does removing trigger the shutter?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The key is prevented from rotating (tripping) by the Body key, which is locked (until you trip the body shutter). When you remove the lens, the pin that locks the lens key disengages first, locking the lens key before the key actually disengages from the body key.</p>

<p>When you disconnect the TC off body, the pin gets tripped momentarily as you disengage, and since there is no body key to prevent the lens key from rotating, the lens shutter releases.</p>

<p>If you have the TC, just try it. You cannot harm anything by doing it.</p>

[dshih]

<p>Thank you. I tried but I could not see the movement inside the camera and the TC. In fact, I could not see how the 503CW screw driver rotated. It rotated so fast that I saw nothing. I simply saw the screw driver stopped at different positions for cocked, mirror locked-up, and shutter released.</p>

<p>It seems that my original guess is correct: "If there is something in the lens side of the adpater to probably HOLD the cocking shaft of the TC, the adapter is likely to work as a camera."</p>

<p>Sorry I still don't understand why mounting a lens to a TC not on camera doesn't trigger the shutter. When the lens is mounted to the TC, the pin is engaged. The cocking shaft of the lens is now unlocked by the pin and can't be hold in position by the TC not on camera. Why isn't the shutter released when mounting and mounted?</p>