synching old Bowens monolites

[davidxgreen]

<p>Is there any way to use two Bowens 400D monolites at the same time? I have flashwaves wireless triggers but the lights only have one sync lead/jack in the back. One of them goes into my camera but I can't figure out if it's possible to fire both somehow.<br>

<br />Also in the market for an inexpensive BW-1890 (to adapt one of these monolites to S mount softboxes).<br>

<br />Thanks in advance</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>Cheap answer - a 1/4" jack splitter:<br>

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-35mm-MONO-Jack-Y-Splitter-Adaptor-Connector-Plug-to-2-x-Socket-6-3mm-1-4-/350841809935?hash=item51afcd2c0f:g:vJgAAOSwPe1UCdCa<br>

Plug the splitter into one monolite, plug the camera lead into one side of the splitter and plug a jack-to-jack lead into the other side and the second monolite.</p>

[davidxgreen]

<p>Ah, so simple. Brilliant, thanks. Excuse my lack of mechanical aptitutde but do I have to have any concerns about hurting the camera powering two monolites this way? I'm only asking as there does seem to be conversations online about "trigger voltage" etc. Thanks again!</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>I personally don't know about the trigger voltage, the 3rd contributor on this page<br>

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2986642<br>

seems to think it is OK!</p>

[paul_k1664875007]

<p>The cheapo, and time proven, solution to trigger a 2nd flash unit if you only have a radio trigger for one unit, is to simply get an optical trigger (can be found for under $6), possibly with a plug that will fit the socket on the 400D, or , which they usually do, accepts the PC flash synch of the standard flash synch cable that comes with the studio flash unit (if it didn't they can be had for as little as < $5)</p>

<p>Bowens still uses that procedure even with its latest studio light sets. If you eg buy a twin 500W Gemini set, you get a Pulsar radio trigger and only one trigger card for one flash unit. The 2nd one has a built in optical cell which will trigger the unit when the main flash goes of.</p>

<p>I noticed though that the Flashwaves seem to have a female PC jack too, so if you have a 'standard' sync cable that would be the simple, also cheap, solution.</p>

<p>Main advantage is you can still trigger cableless, possible disadvantage is that the optical trigger reacts to any flash going of, which could be a problem if you're working with /are in the company of someone using a flash/speedlight</p>

[davidxgreen]

<p>Hey David thanks for that too. Will wait and hear if anyone disagrees with the trigger voltage safety issue and meanwhile am ordering the part you so kindly linked for me. thanks again!</p>

<p>Thanks to the other posters who got in before this message. will look into all of this, help much appreciated!!</p>

[davidxgreen]

<p>I meant to say thanks to Paul (e.g. "the other posters"). am having trouble with this site today.<br>

Will check the box of jacks and things that came with the flashwaves. didn't think the solutions would be so fast and accessible today!</p>

[henryp]

<p>There's a voltage risk (sometimes) attaching a flash to a camera's hot shoe. There's almost no risk if you're attaching a sync cord to the camera's PC outlet.<br>

Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

[davidxgreen]

<p>ah, brilliant, thanks Henry! Looking forward to the next pilgimage to your fine shop!</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

Beware of plugging old Bowens

400s into a digital camera or

radio slave trigger. The

trigger voltage on early metal-

bodied 400s reaches something

like 600 volts and will blow

the cr#p out of most modern

cameras and radio triggers.

 

Safest way to trigger a

second 400D is to use an

optical trigger. Some 400s

came with a built in optical

slave (little domed red lens

on the back). Better yet

would be to trade those old

400s for something a bit more

up to date.

[paul_k1664875007]

 

<p><em>Beware of plugging old Bowens 400s into a digital camera or radio slave trigger. The trigger voltage on early metal- bodied 400s reaches something like 600 volts and will blow the cr#p out of most modern cameras and radio triggers.</em><br>

<em>Safest way to trigger a second 400D is to use an optical trigger.</em></p>

<p>Guess I've been dumb lucky for many years then<br>

Despite having a couple of more recent Bowens Gemini's, still use my 30+ year old Hensel 500 Economy's and a couple of old Bowens monoblocs (400D, 500Ws MonoSilver)<br>

Have used them with D1, D1H, D1X, D2X, D70S and D3 with a classic synch cable without frying those camera's interns</p>

<p>Similarly also have used them with a cheapo Chinese (product description on the box "Studio Flashlight Radio <strong>Slace</strong>' ) and PW TT5's (with the ridiculous expensive MP1 cable) with the same boring result (no issues)<br>

Haven't used those old flashes with my D800's and DF as by that time I had purchased the PW's, so can't comment (from personal working experience) on the use of old studio units with those two camera's</p>

<p>An optical trigger as previously posted is the easiest, time proven and cheapest option<br>

<em> </em><br>

<em>Better yet would be to trade those old 400s for something a bit more up to date.</em><br>

IMO only really urgent reason would be the (in) compatibility with S mount accesories (although K to S mount adapters can be found)<em><br /></em><br>

For the rest the old Bowens units are sturdy (although big and quite heavy), reliable, and not in the last place of a much better built quality then many discount cheapo Chinese units</p>

<p> </p>

 

[dhbebb]

<p>I have to say that as an old-school photographer I tend to use old-school methods: the most reliable method of syncing several studio strobes from an electrical point of view is without doubt cables. The downside of this is that very long cables will be needed - to link two strobes 5 meters apart, for example, will require a cable at least 10 meters long - and that cables in the studio are a trip hazard. Almost as good if you are working indoors and no one else is using flash is photocell triggering - even cheap cells seem to be quite reliable. I find the use of wireless triggers an unnecessary complication in a small or medium-sized indoor studio - they are of course invaluable for covering large distances, other than that I am wary of adding to the electromagnetic smog around us, notwithstanding that wireless triggers are available cheaply today and seem to work well.</p>

[davidxgreen]

<p>Awesome, I'd no idea that the plug and adapter I needed to fire the second monolite were already in the Flashwaves box. So that's what those are for! Thanks so much all for the help<br>

<br />As far as the two widely opposing opinions about the trigger voltage, I'll have to side with Paul and the chap from B&H. Makes me now a little nervous but I have also been firing one monolite directly from a port in my cameras (various Pentax digitals, including the K-3) as well as using a hotshoe thingy and nothing bad has ever happened.<br>

I imagine if the trigger voltage was going to kill one of my digital cameras it would've happened by now...or is that faulty thinking?</p>

<p> </p>