Hassy on tripod but no cable release

[Kat D.]

<p>In the middle of my photo shoot today, the cable release which I had in my Hassy 201F while I was shooting at 1/30 second on a tripod, stopped working. (I have the worst luck with cable releases.) I continued with the camera on the tripod, but hit the release with my finger. Do you think the images will show camera shake? My model was a friend who was being very still. This wasn't a paying job fortunately. Will have the film developed, but I'm wondering if I should be hopeful. </p>

<p>I just ordered a Pentax cable release. I seem to remember that brand lasting longer than others. Any input on best release for a Hassy or cable release brands you've found reliable in general would be welcome.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

[dave_s]

<p>Your 201F has a self-timer, doesn't it? (I've never used one.)</p>

[Kat D.]

<p>It does have a self-timer, and I see from the manual that it can be set to 2 seconds, so that may have worked. Didn't think of it. Though I was trying to catch certain expressions, so a 2-second delay would've been a little frustrating. But good idea to consider that next time cable release breaks. Thanks.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>The self-timer on a 200 body works only with the focal plane shutter. That's better than pressing the release by hand, but still introduces noticeable vibration at 1/60 or slower.</p>

<p>I think I have three cable releases in my bag. If you have at least one spare, the first one will never break - Murphy's Law.</p>

<p>Moose Peterson recommends pressing down on the top of the camera during an exposure. It does help. Not the pressure, but the dampening effect of your hand. Don't forget to raise the mirror too.</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>I`m surprised. I don`t find a difference with my Mamiya (1/60-1/30 with a normal lens) :/<br /> After several cheap cable release units broken, I found two options; to buy the expensive models (those with an "oversized", thick sheath) or to have spare thin cheap ones on the bag (more sooner than later they always break). I prefer short ones, but longer ones seem to work better.<br /> Nikon ones are small (AR-3) but well made to my taste. Kaiser and Hama have some "thick" ones that look fine.</p>

[Colin O]

<p>The best* cable releases are made by Gebr. Schreck in Germany:<br>

<a href="http://www.drahtauslöser.com/ESITE/">

http://www.drahtauslöser.com/ESITE/</a></p>

 

<p>* My opinion</p>

[michael_darnton2]

<p>To answer the question, I just about never use a cable release when I'm shooting on a tripod. In fact, I use my other hand on top of the camera to dampen any movement that the tripod alone wouldn't, since most tripods have some small amount of resonance. Been doing this for 40 years, and it works great.</p>

[Kat D.]

<p>Edward: Yes, extra cable releases would be smart! Interesting idea about pressing down on top of camera. Will have to try that. Thanks.</p>

<p>Jose: You mean you don't find a difference whether you use cable release or not with your Mamiya on tripod?</p>

<p>Colin: When I saw your link, I imagined they'd be extremely expensive. But not bad at all, about 33 EU with shipping. The Pentax release I ordered from B&H yesterday was $20. I think I'll order a Schreck one, too. Thanks.</p>

[Kat D.]

<p>Michael: How interesting that you don't use cable release. Makes me feel more hopeful about these three rolls of film. However, I wasn't dampening movement of camera with my hand. After the film is developed, I'll report the results.....</p>

[michael_darnton2]

<p>There's nothing magical about tripods and cable releases: using them doesn't automatically guarantee steady results. Most cameras have quite a slap, and most tripods aren't all that non-resonant. I started doing this with a Mamiya RB67 on a tripod made for 4x5 cameras, and saw no reason to stop, after seeing the results. </p>

[jose_angel]

<p>Kat, exactly. With my RZ over the right tripod, -at the mentioned conditions, I mean-, I don´t need a cable release to get sharp pics; I get the same results either finger-triggering the shutter release button at the camera (mirror down) or by releasing the shutter with a cable (mirror locked up). I never put my hand over the camera, too.<br /> I don`t shoot Hasselblad, maybe they have a different behavior.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>There are degrees of "sharp," it all depends on how fussy you are. You are probably okay if you pressed the release gently, without poking it. Let's say, sharp enough is good enough.</p>

<p>It's when the finest details count that you need to cover all the bases, and using a cable release is just the start. Working with digital, MF and otherwise, reveals a lot about the importance of technique. Even the slightest vibration will cause smearing or doubling at the pixel level, and any focusing errors are highlighted. It's safe to say the same things occur with film, even though they may not be obvious.</p>

[Aoresteen]

<p>I've used Nikon cable release with my Hasselblads since 1976. They have always done a great job. And I use a 2000F/CM most of the time now.</p>

<p>I do carry two ever since I lost one in Greece in 2006.</p>

[Uhooru]

<blockquote>

<p>There are degrees of "sharp," it all depends on how fussy you are. You are probably okay if you pressed the release gently, without poking it. Let's say, sharp enough is good enough.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>+1 </p>

[Kat D.]

<p>Thanks for the Nikon recommendation, Anthony. Checked your web site.....nice that you put all that great info about focal plane shutter Hasselblads there.</p>

[jmlphotography]

<p>Re release cable problems: This may not be relevant but I had my 203FE serviced by Hasselblad USA and the technician made a point of the fact that cable releases must be put in a certain way, but not screwed in, or words to that effect. Unfortunately I can't remember exactly what he said. Perhaps someone can enlighten me. Otherwise, I'll give him a call or stop by next time I'm NJ.</p>

[Kat D.]

<p>J LaRocco: Very interesting. I want to find out about this. When I ran into problems yesterday, my camera seemed jammed, and I was relieved when it worked again after I took the cable release out. I vaguely remember hearing something about some cable releases projecting too far into Hasselblads? If you get the scoop, please let us know. Or if you can tell me who to ask at Hasselblad, NJ, I'd be happy to call. I usually deal with Maryann there. Maybe she can refer me to right person......</p>

[jose_angel]

<blockquote>

<p>There are degrees of "sharp," it all depends on how fussy you are. You are probably okay if you pressed the release gently, without poking it. Let's say, sharp enough is good enough.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Agree. Everybody should make a simple test to know how their cameras perform. Just shooting a small point light source using different triggering methods, and enlarging the image as big as needed to be easily compared, will tell about the <em>real</em> sharpness and gear capabilities.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>1/30 is not particularly slow when you're on a tripod. Unless you were slapping or punching the camera to trigger the release you should be fine.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Shutter times between 1/4 and 1/30 second seem particularly susceptible to camera induced vibration. At slower times, the duration of the disturbance is too small a percentage to make a difference. At faster speeds, the shutter is fast enough to render them harmless. For really long exposures, as for astrophotography, it is common to shield the lens without touching it until after the shutter is open and before it is closed.</p>

[brett_rogers]

<p>If sharpness is really that important, fit a lens with a shutter to your focal plane body, prefire the mirror/body shutter, and use either a cable release (or the timer on the lens shutter if it has one, C types do). With a decent tripod supporting it, there's not much you or anyone else can do for better sharpness with a Hassy.</p>

[Kat D.]

<p>Update: Received my film back on Friday. I was happy with the sharpness of my photos. (Hassy 201F on tripod but with no cable release, hit shutter release with finger, 1/30 second, f 2.8, 110/2 lens.)<br>

Here is one I've scanned so far:</p>

<p>

<p>Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion. Lots of good info.</p>