Can I use a Pentax shoe mount flash on a Canon camera?

[hoang_nguyen9]

<p>Previously I was using a Pentax camera/flash system, and recently switched to Canon. I'm planning to sell my Pentax gears but want to keep the flash to hopefully use it on Manual with the Canon EOS cameras (5D M2 and 6D). I'm sure the TTL function does not work on a non-Pentax camera. Do you know if it's ok to use manual flash without causing any damage to my Canon camera or the flash?</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Hoang N.</p>

[bobatkins]

<p>I would not risk it. If you want to do this use something like a Wein Safe-Sync between the camera and the flash to isolate the camera from high voltages which may be present on the flash terminals, as well as contact with additional pins on the flash that the camera is not expecting to see.</p>

[savagesax]

As Bob says you can damage, even burn the circuits. I wouldn't do it. It's an interesting subject so lets talk science for a

second. It only takes less than 5 volts to fry a circuit board. Actually only 3 volts can often wreck a circuit board, such as a

motherboard on a computer. Scary, but true!

 

A very good non Canon flash, but a dedicated Canon flash unit is the Phottix Mitrox. I actually like it better than the Canon

flashes. Comes with a very nice soft diffuser for excellent bridal portraits to light up the brides eyes. Just one example. It's

also great for nature work and pretty much anything that requires the use of a decent flash. The cool part is it's VERY easy

to operate. Good luck, hope this helps.

[Marcus Ian]

<p>Okay, the short answer is don't use Pentax flashes unprotected with Canon DSLRs. Modern Pentax flashes are ISO 10330 compliant of course, but that merely means that their trigger voltage is 24V or less (as opposed to the 200-400V of earlier flashes - I'm assuming we are NOT talking about a film era flash). Canon DSLR trigger voltages are designed at less than 5V (I do not know what Pentax cameras are designed for, but I'm pretty sure it's substantially higher than 5V!). I am 95% sure that ANY ISO 10330 compliant flash will be fine on even our uber-sensitive Canon DSLRs, but it's your gear, and I don't like failure rates of 5%!</p>

<p>Of course you could test your flashes... (Pretty easy with a DMM - center point to frame)</p>

<p>Alternatively (and the best idea IMO), you could get something like Bob says (though there are ones available that don't cost more than a new set of (compatible) manual flashes! - which can be had for under $50).</p>

<p> </p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Does the manual for your camera show the maximum sync voltage is can handle? Not the minimum it needs to work, but the maximum it can handle? On Nikon it's 250V. If that's the case, then using the Pentax flash on manual or even auto aperture (but not ttl) should be fine.<br /><br />From <a href="http://www.Imaging-Resource.com">www.Imaging-Resource.com</a>:<br />"Canon 5D Mark II Mark II Flash. Like its predecessor, the EOS 5D Mark II does not offer a built-in flash, but instead features a top-mounted hot-shoe as well as a PC sync terminal (rated for under <strong>250 volts</strong> trigger voltage)."<br /><br />Even if you don't feel comfortable using the Pentax flash on the hot shoe, dont' get rid of it since you probably won't get much for it. Keep it as an off-camera flash. Put in on a stand with an umbrella and get better lighting than you'll even get with it in the hot shoe.</p>

[hoang_nguyen9]

<p>Thank you everyone for your inputs. I'm not going to risk putting the flash on my Canon camera but wonder if I can use the Yongnuo YN622C to trigger the flash wirelessly without damaging the Yongnuo itself. A transmitter is on the camera hot shoe, the receiver is attached to the flash for the off-camera flash setup. </p>

<h2 > </h2>

[savagesax]

Well here comes more science! It's worth reading. Again, good questions. Hopefully us fellow readers will save you lots

of wasted money from damaged gear, by doing the things you want to achieve the correct way.

 

First, how are you attaching the receiver and the flash? Can you post a pic? I think you you will be fine, but I'd like to see

a photo before saying yes. Mainly the receiver. If it's a wireless transmitter and receiver, such as a radio slave you

should be OK. The thing that could happen is you may need to set the flash to Auto or Manual. Needless to say TTL

won't work. Setting to the TTL mode the flash will probably fire the flash at full power, such as full Manual power. My

concern is I don't know about this flash, the Yongnuo YN622C set up. There is a slim chance that it could actually get

very hot and short out, starting with the batteries getting too hot. Actually so hot that you can't even handhold when

touching the batteries. Then the flash dies from overheating, again circuit burns, resisters, and other parts of the circuit

board.

 

Now the science part - This gets a bit complicated, so bear with me. You can buy a generic flash, such as a Vivitar 183

or 185 for little money. They last forever and very inexpensive. If you look at the bottom of the hot shoe on these flashes

there's only 1 prong sticking out of the center of this shoe. Canons, Nikons, and several other shoes all have this center

shoe post, but they also have 3 to 5 other posts/prongs/pins sticking out of the shoes. These extra posts are set up for

TTL, and other types of operations, such as the flash sync above 250th of a second, and the second curtain camera

sync. These posts, pins, prong, whatever you wish to call them have other operational functions; I've just listed a few. As

I said it gets complicated. So lets make it simple. Buy a flash that only has one prong sticking out of the hot shoe. This is

your voltage prong. Every camera has one with standard mounts. Some of the Sony cameras and the Minolta cameras

sadly use non standard mounts.

 

Long story short if you buy a non dedicated flash that has the only one centered prong, without any other prongs sticking

out it should work fine on your camera and the chance of voltage overloads are slim. Vivitar flash units are still

considered very decent flash units. You can also check out Sunpak, and some of the Metz strobes. Again, before you

buy one, make sure it only has one prong. That's your key to camera safety. Pretty much all of the new modern cameras

will accept the one pronged hot shoe mounts.

 

My personal suggestion is to go with a dedicated Canon or non Canon flash and buy some really cheap, inexpensive

radio slaves on ebay for about $30 for your external flash use. Post a picture if you wish.

[hoang_nguyen9]

<p>Thanks Bob for taking the time to explain it in great details. I really appreciate it.</p>

[savagesax]

Glad to help. It can get complicated.