Nikon d7100 - Lens selection

[jake_m]

<p><br />Hi Pros,<br /><br />It's time for me to get a decent digital camera. After first considering a Pentax K5iis or Canon 5Dmkii - I'm now looking seriously at the Nikon D7100. <br /><br />As a fine artist ( drawing and sculpture ) - I must document both flat and medium sized 3-d art. Until now I've been using a Mamiya Pro TL with lenses that include; 80mm /2.8, 80mm macro, 50mm shift, and 120mm macro. The 120 macro is my go to for 3d stuff - as is the 80mm macro for flat art.<br>

The film process is simply not efficient at this point.<br /><br />Budget is a concern and that's why I looked at the Pentax k5iis first - also partially because I have a decent collection of original smc 35mm glass that I use on my LX. However, I found out that Pentax doesn't support tethered shooting. The Canon 5dmkii is more expensive than the Nikon and has the sensor filter - which i don't want because I need razor sharp images. <br /><br />Portability is not a big concern as most of my work would be done in the studio on a tripod or on my custom built 7' h copy stand w alien bees strobes. <br /><br />___<br /><br />Would appreciate general advice on the d7100. <br /><br />Primarily - I need help with lens selection. Should I stick with Nikkor primes for compatibility or can I also use EX DG Sigma primes? I've read mixed reviews about Sigma compatibility. <br /><br />To start I'm guessing I'd need a 50mm macro and something near 28mm.<br /><br />Finally - to complete the kit I'll need a mac laptop with OS and software that tethers well with the d7100. Would like to get an older laptop to save $- I'm guessing that mid 2011 and up would suffice. Any suggestions here on the laptop, OS and software would also be much appreciated.<br /><br />Thank you,<br />Jake</p>

<p> </p>

[Two23]

<p>There is a very nice Nikon 60mm micro you might look at. One thing that will be a pleasant surprise for you is that your switch is going to give you about two more stops of Depth of Field. What that means is that with the D7100 you will be getting the same DoF at f8 that you used to get with the 67 at f11. This will make life easier for you.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[nick_baker]

<p>If you will focus manually then you have access to an extensive back catalog of F-mount lenses that will be very inexpensive used. </p>

<p>I would suggest googling Bjorn Rorslett lens evaluations. He comments on just about anything every made and he has an interest in macro.</p>

<p>I am not sure whether there has ever been a flat-field 28mm lens for Nikon. </p>

[mike_halliwell]

<p>Just checking the Mamiya Pro TL is 645 right?</p>

<p>That makes the preferred Medium format to DX lens equivalents as v.roughly 60mm for 3D and 40mm for Flat copy.</p>

<p>I'd personally go Tamron 60mm f2 macro for 3D (and small flat copy) and Nikon 40mm 2.8 macro for flat copy.</p>

<p>The Tamron is super sharp but does have +0.2% barrel distortion. The 40mm Nikon is pretty-much distortion free.</p>

<p>If you want a bit longer, the Sigma 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro is very nice with zero distortion.</p>

<p>I'm a PC guy....:-)</p>

<p>However, if they've made ControlMyNikon for Mac by now, is great value tethering software. Nikon's own is dire and way overpriced to boot.</p>

<p>EDIT. I see they haven't yet sadly...:-(</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>Of course if money is not an object, one might consider the Nikon 24 mm. tilt shift lens with an electronic aperture. Several other manufacturers make fully manual 24 tilt shift lenses that look rather interesting.</p>

[nick_baker]

<p>On looking into it I am not sure what there is flat field with a shorter focal length than the current 40mm f2.8 G. Since you are DX you could do worse than simply obtain the current DX pair of the 40mm and the 85 f3.5 G VR. You can also consider 90mm macro lenses from others such as Tamron.</p>

 

[CoryAmmerman]

<p>The D7100 supports metering with manual focus glass. Since you say budget is a concern and most of your work will be on a tripod, you might look at going this route for some of your lenses. Both the 2.8 and 3.5 versions of the 55 macro are outstanding. There are also 35 and 28mm manual focus T/S lenses. Just stay away from the oldest versions that are called non-AI or pre-AI. Those won't meter and might damaged the aperture follower on the camera.</p>

[jake_m]

<p>Thank you Gents for your suggestions -wil research all. Yes - the Mamiya I own is a 645.<br>

Cory, regarding the older glass - is the factory focusing screen compatible? I'd like to avoid swapping it. <br>

Mike Halliwell, thanks for the tethering tip. Based on what you said; <br>

<em>"I'm a PC guy....:-)</em><br>

<em>However, if they've made ControlMyNikon for Mac by now, is great value tethering software. Nikon's own is dire and way overpriced to boot.</em><br>

<em>EDIT. I see they haven't yet sadly...:-("</em><br>

Perhaps it would make sense for me to use a PC laptop to shoot with and save the files? Then I could bring them into Mac later for pp. Thoughts?</p>

[mike_halliwell]

<p>I know the OP has a Mamiya 50mm shift lens, but I can't really see the need for one for recording medium sized 3D art, there is a budget to consider! <br>

___________</p>

<p>The following is not an entirely serious suggestion...:-)<br>

How about a digital back for your Mamiya 645!</p>

[mike_halliwell]

<blockquote>

<p>Perhaps it would make sense for me to use a PC laptop to shoot with and save the files? Then I could bring them into Mac later for pp. Thoughts?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yes! http://www.controlmynikon.com/ for $30. if you feel the need you can make it voice activated too!, say '<strong><em>exposure compensation +2/3EV and fir</em>e</strong>' .........all handsfree* with a Bluetooth headset.</p>

<p>* camera on tripod/copystand, you sitting in-front of big 23inch screen, selecting AF point, camera tethered to laptop sipping a cold one. The beer's for you, not the laptop. I've found they're not very compatible.</p>

[CoryAmmerman]

<p>I've used manual focus glass on a D50 and D300 and never replaced the screens in either. The factory screens aren't the biggest or brightest, but they are serviceable. The focus confirmation in the viewfinder helps, and you can also zoom in with live view for critical focus.</p>

[jake_m]

Thank you! My goal here is quality and

efficiency. Am simply tired of the film to

digital bottleneck.

 

A few thoughts based on responses

thus far ( better ask now before I spend

$) :

 

Would a digital back for the mamiya

seriously make more sense?

 

Because I have no experience with DX

format, would it be suitable for my

purposes? Just FYI I'm not producing

large scale prints. Photos taken would

be used for digital portfolio

presentation and some book size prints

as well.

[mike_halliwell]

<p>Digi Back, probably overkill for these purposes! Oh, and don't forget that budget...;-)</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Photos taken would be used for digital portfolio presentation and some book size prints as well</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yup, DX will be just fine in the studio situation. The only Nikon DSLR to avoid from of the modern D**** generation is the 3000 series as they cannot be tethered. The 7000 series can be tethered and autofocus with all old Nikon (and other) AF lenses; the 5000 series can be tethered but will only autofocus with lenses that have the focus motor built it, or AF-S in Nikon speak, HSM for Sigma and Di in Tamron.</p>

[nick_baker]

<p>yes you can focus manually with D7100. You may find that the focus confirmation indicator is more reliable than the focusing screen (I do). There are even some tricks for increasing the accuracy of the focus confirmation device, although I have never explored them.</p>

<p>I am not sure you will find a 28mm flatfield lens for DX, other than a 24mm PCE and I am not sure of your budget. In general, FX would improve your wide angle options but as the widest DX micronikkor is 40mm and the widest FX micronikkor is 55mm it may not make much difference in your case.</p>

[mike_halliwell]

<p>As the OP is going to be tethering, the zoomed-in LV focus should be ideal. It's as accurate as it can get, as it's the direct image on the sensor being used, not a reflected beam.</p>

[jake_m]

<p>Regarding the 28mm focal length ( In my opening question I was only using my 35mm Pentax LX setup as a reference point ) . Just looking for DX lens suggestions equivalent to a 28mm in 35mm format - in this ( wide angle) case not macro. Sorry for any misunderstandings.<br>

<br />The lenses I may start with are: the Nikon 40mm 2.8 macro - for flat copy work and either Tamron 60mm or Sigma 70mm macros for 3d stuff.<br>

<br />My budget to start is about $1,500. So I'm hoping to get the camera and at least 2 lenses to start with. Later I could add lenses. The only time I use wide angle is when I'm shooting an art installation.</p>

[jake_m]

<p>Guys, Thank you for your responses.<br>

As I look on ebay the d7100 is going new and used around $800.<br>

<br />I noticed that people seem to bid on d7100s that clearly state they are the "US version"<br>

Is there a difference in quality to watch out for with the d7100 depending on where it was made?<br>

If so, does the serial number indicate which is which?<br>

<br /><br /></p>

[CoryAmmerman]

<p>The US version vs. gray market only has to do with warranty issues. They are the same cameras made in the same place (not the USA). If you buy a gray market version, Nikon USA will not repair it under warranty.</p>

[nick_baker]

<blockquote>

<p>If you buy a gray market version, Nikon USA will not repair it under warranty.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>or outside of warranty either</p>

[kohanmike]

<p>Macs all comes with the Image Capture application that will tether to Nikon, which can click the shutter, show you the images and download them to a pre-chosen folder.</p>

[Dieter Schaefer]

<p>Refurbished Nikon D7100 at adorama for $700 - I'd rather get that than taking my chances at fleabay. Comes with a Nikon 90-day warranty - so definitely a legitimate US import.</p>

[jake_m]

<p>Thank you guys for your help. I'm still looking at my options and am concerned that DX may not suit me best. Fortunately - my budget is not written in stone.<br>

Dieter- I read your article " D600 or D7100 ". Very informative. For shooting my artwork ( drawings and sculpture ) I need max dof and low light capability when shooting sculpture in my studio or in a gallery setting. Now I'm seriously considering a d600 over the d7100.<br>

<br />Thoughts on this are welcome. Thank you.</p>

<p> </p>

[jake_m]

<p>Correction!<br />I read Dieters' <em>posting -D600 or D7100</em> ( not article ). Thanks</p>

[mike_halliwell]

<p>Jake, <em><strong>if</strong></em> you're working from a tripod or a fixed/stable copystand, then time is not an issue and you can use the lowest ISO you want and any ANY aperture you want.</p>

<p>If you're hand-held (without flash) in a darkish studio, then <strong><em>all</em></strong> bets are off!</p>

[nick_baker]

<blockquote>

<p>Jake, <em><strong>if</strong></em> you're working from a tripod or a fixed/stable copystand, then time is not an issue and you can use the lowest ISO you want and any ANY aperture you want.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, and if you stack images you can have whatever dof you want from whatever aperture. Not hard to do in Photoshop, or there are dedicated programs available.</p>

<p>In principle FX is better for your purposes since you are not looking to maximize reach. On the other hand, you will have to substitute the 40mm DX micronikkor with a longer focal length - one of the used 55mm AIS micronikkors would be a cheap option. Overall, you will spend more money for a modest improvement in dynamic range, perhaps 1 stop. Also, D800e, D810 and D7100 are the only bodies lacking an AA filter, which does make a (small) difference. Your call.</p>