Readyloads, Quickloads, Polaroid - HOW??? 4x5

[lbi115l]

Hello. I am thinking of getting into large format, specifically 4x5.

I understand most of the invloved processes, but am a bit hazy on the

exact workings of 4x5 readyload, quickload, and polaroid sheet films.

I have used 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 pack film in a MF polaroid back and know

how it works, but how do the sheets for 4x5 work? Need they be loaded

in darkness? Also, how do the quickload/readyload systems work? How

do they keep the film light-tight and how are they operated? I am

planning on travelling with the camera, and have determined that the

only feasible way (with airport restrictions) is to either pack a

checked bag with film holders (I worry about impact bending them) and

bringing a huge changing bag, or using quickloads. I heard that TMX

was discontinued, but Calumet lists it.

 

Thanks.

[bill_proud]

Jason,

 

I'm sure someone is going to tell you to check the archives but I couldn't figure how to get there myself so.......

 

Fuji's Quikload system is a $120.00 holder and 20 individually sleeved sheets in a cardboard box, for about $60.00, sold separately.

You slide the film sleeve into the holder which grabs and holds a metal tab on the sleeve bottom. Pushing the sleeve in also releases a catch, which allows you to pull out the sleeve but not the film. The sleeve stops at the top of the holder, you expose the film in re-insert the sleeve.

 

You then push down a gray colored, spring loaded release tab, which allows you to pull out the entire sleeve, with film attached and again, lighttight. Take to lab and process, voila, you have, in my case, a crappy out-of-focus exposed sheet of film, but one without dust spots. Well occasionally I get one right.

 

Good luck

[brian_ellis3]

The three film systems you mention (Quickload, Readyload, Polaroid) don't need to be loaded in the dark. They do need to be unloaded for developing (in the case of Readyload and Quickload) in the dark by you if you're doing your own developing or by your lab. The systems consist of a holder that you buy and a sheet of film in a paper envelope. There is some interchangeability among the holders so you don't necessarily need to buy all three to use all three types of film (e.g. the Polaroid 545i holder can be used for Readyloads as well as some Polaroid films). To make a photograph you insert the holder in the camera back, insert the envelope into the holder, pull up the envelope (the film remains down in the holder so it can be exposed), make the photograph, push the envelope back down, remove it from the holder, remove the holder from the camera. It takes longer to type it than it does to do it.

 

TMX hasn't been discontinued. Kodak recently conmpleted construction of a new factory for manufacturing black and white film and there have been some minor changes in some of the films but T Max is very much alive and well. In fact it's the only Kodak black and white film available in Readyload form.

[kelly_flanigan1]

How many of you "develop these yourself" versus "send it away" to a lab?

[brooks short]

I use Kodak T-Max 100 quickloads and Kodak E100S quickload. I develop the T-Max myself because I use the Zone System for exposure and development control. The E6 I download into a traditional 3-way box and have the local commercial lab proces it.

[dave_whitehead1]

Jason, I hope you take the plunge and get into 5" X 4". Don't overlook using Polaroid Type 55pn. The PN stands for positive/negative. It will give you a proof print AND a negative. I have found these negatives give beautiful results. (Do be aware though that the negative is about one half to one stop SLOWER than the print!). Get a Polaroid 545i back. The film comes in boxes of 20 single sheets. These are loaded individualy (as stated in your first answer). The "sleeve" acts as a darkslide. Don't worry about light leakage - I have never had a problem. If you want to use the camera out in the field, the 545i back will let you take the exposed film out without processing it. You can re-insert it back at home and "pull" it to develop it then. Full instructions are included with the film. Check out the Polaroid web site also.

[brian_c._miller]

Readyloads, Quickloads, and Polaroid film all contain the film within an individual packet. Put the film in the holder, the holder catches the metal clip at the end, insert it into the camera, pull the paper, click the shutter, push the paper back in. Using the Polaroid holder and Polaroid film you then flip the lever to the process position, pull out the film, wait, then peel it apart.

 

The old Kodak 2-sheet loads had some occasional light leakage problems. I used a Polaroid 545 film holder with these. I haven't used the new single-sheet loads yet.

 

Polaroids and Readylods do make travelling convenient, and cost about the same. The Polaroid has about the same contrast as E-6. Here's the Polaroid data on how to work with Polaroid Polapan PN Type 55 sheet film: http://www.polaroid.com/service/userguides/photographic/4x5filmguide.pdf

[robert_eaves2]

I frequently use the Kodak Readyload system (newer style), and have excellent results. As far as being "out of focus", I have never had an issue with this. The lack of dust is a definite plus. It is a little costly, but if you don't mind paying for convenience and time not spent in the darkroom loading and unloading film, it is well worth it. When backpacking, you only need to carry one film holder, not twenty, which saves space and weight.

[bob_finley]

Since a picture is worth a bunch of words, here are some pictures that might help you.

 

http://www.butzi.net/reviews/readyquick.htm

[noshir_patel]

A suggestion...

 

Get the new Kodak Readyload holder (the single sheet variety). It works well with both Kodak Readyloads and Fuji Quickloads (the Fuji holder only works with Fuji Quickloads, so I have heard). I own both holders and think the Kodak is easier to work with. I can't imagine bothering with traditional holders (loading hassles, dust problems, extra bulk, less film in the field). I usually carry the holder and up to two boxes of film (total of 40 sheets) on a photo dayhike.

 

I haven't had any sharpness problems. My scanner captures enough detail to make nice 20x24 prints and a look at the transparencies shows clearly that the scanner is not capturing all the detail that's actually there. You just have to set focus correctly and stop down the correct amount. (I use the method for optimizing sharpness that you can find on www.largeformat.info).

[john_luke]

See previous postings at

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004Msk

[joffre_swait]

For about 1/2 year now I have been successfully using the Polaroid 545i holder with PN 55, Kodak Tmax Readyloads and Fuji Provia Quickloads. I have not had film flatness problems with any of these sheet films and holder, but I have had a couple of small light leaks on the insertion edge with the Kodak Readyloads and this holder; nary a problem with the Quickloads.

 

Don't quite know why, perhaps a procedural problem on my part, but I have lost a good number of PN 55 sheets because the film sheet slides out of the envelope with great ease after being removed from the holder. Just remember to tape the envelope down immediately upon removal from the holder.

 

Joffre