70-300mm f4 IS vs 70-200 L

[marilie_fouche]

<p>Which of these lenses would be better for functions where low light is the biggest problem. Or is the Tamron 70-300 VC a better buy?</p>

[philip_wilson]

Best low light Canon zoom is the 70-200 f2.8. But it is big and expensive. There are 3 versions the old non IS, the MkI Is

and the current MkII IS. All three are very good - especially the current lens. The 70-200 f4 IS is also a great lens and

half the weight of the f2.8 lens. In terms of sharpness it is pretty much as good as the F2.8. I have not used the 70-300 L

but the only one I am aware of is the variable aperture model which for most of its range is f5 or slower.

[mark_pierlot]

<p>As Philip has said, the 70-300 doesn't have a constant f/4 aperture, but is rather f/4-5.6.</p>

<p>And I'll second his recommendation of the 70-200/4 L IS. The 70-200/2.8's are nice, but too heavy and expensive (for me, anyway).</p>

[devon_mccarroll]

<p>I wouldn't go any slower than a constant f4 lens (like the Canon 70-200) for low light, and it really depends on how low the light is. The 70-200 2.8 lenses are very heavy, but I've also seen posts from wedding photographers that say the extra stop has really saved them in a few situations. </p>

[kerry_grim]

Will the low light photos be handheld or tripod? Moving subject or stationary?

 

You do not necessarily need a fast lens for low light. Unless you really need the speed, the 70-200/4 IS would be fine and more portable. I have the 70-200 2.8 non IS. Excellent but heavy. Purchasing now, the 70-200/4 IS would be the choice for me and I would likely carry it further afield.

[dcstep]

<p>Get the EF 70-200mm f/4L IS and use it with a body with good high-ISO performance, like the 5D MkIII. It's excellent and the 1.4x and 2.0x TC-III will make it incredibly versatile in good light.</p>

[paul_mullins]

<p>Another vote for the EF 70-200 f/4 IS from me. I use it primarily for landscape purposes with a 5D MkII. Lugging around an f/2.8 as well as other lenses all day does fill me with joy. I also use it with the 1.4x TC and find it a wonderful lens. </p>

[neill_farmer2]

<p>Only you can make the decision between the f4 and f2.8 versions. Low light, I'd go for the 2.8. It will allow a higher shutter speed and in low light you will need all the speed you can get. We don't know what camera you have, a 6D or 5D3 are going to stretch the low light capabilities further than, say, a 7D or 60D. I agree the f4 is a much easier lens to handle, especially for any length of time, and if your use were more well lit surroundings I'd go for that. Low light, hi ISO, movement, get all the help you can, a 70-200L f2.8 will provide more sharp shots.</p>

[ruben leal]

Marilie, could you elaborate a bit more on your specific needs?

 

My experience in low light requirements includes scenarios where prime lens with really wide apertures are the only

solution, but also scenarios where a sturdy tripod is more important than the lens in use, going through the usual wide

aperture zoom lenses as well as lenses with image stabilization, all depending on the subject, camera body,

circumstances, etc.

 

For example, a contemporary dance presentation under dim violet light may need a normal length prime lens with a wide

aperture to freeze a dancer in mid-air. On the other hand, a night scene showing the movement of the stars (actually the

rotation of the Earth) may be done with an exposure of an hour, requiring the lens diafragram to be partially closed, but

depends on a very sturdy tripod to hold the camera still for the length of the shot.

 

Examples of differences of lenses depending on the camera body are the applications where the Sigma f/1.8 zoom lens

could be used (but it only works for cameras with APS-C sized sensors). Also, depending on the generation of the

camera's sensor, size of its photo-sites, density and resolution, you may use a higher ISO sensitivity to compensate for

the lack of "speed" (wide aperture) of the lens.

 

Finally, as it has been mentioned a lot in this thread, the location of your shoot may change your equipment options, as it

isn't the same to carry a large aluminum tripod from Manfrotto with a Canon 1DX and a 70-200 f/2.8 IS Mk II, than it is to

carry a gigantic carbon fiber Gitzo tripod with a Canon 6D and a prime 200mm lens, but both may deliver the same exact

results.

[savagesax]

This is a very general answer. The longer the zoom the more that the zoom will not be as sharp. Also

remember that the longer the zoom the higher the F stops will be.

 

As others have stated there are some great zoom lenses from 70-200 with a 2.8 F stop, A 70-300 most

likely will have a beginning F stop around F4 to F5.6.

[mark from thailand]

<p>I have the 70-300 f/4-5.6 and the 70-200 f/4. I find the 70-200 a little sharper and it suffers far less from vignetting than the 70-300 on a FF camera. The 70-300 is also bulky.</p>

<p>Both have their place but, if I do not need the reach, I always use the 70-200.</p>

[Mark Keefer]

<p>I have the <a href="/equipment/product-detail?product_id=17864">Tamron SP 70-200MM F/2.8 DI VC USD</a>, excellent lens, no regrets. Fast lens. Will also do f/2.8 all the way from 70mm to 200mm. Very sharp. Works great on both my 6D and 7D. Took this shot with it today with this lens on my 6D, not the brightest of scenes, bird in flight into forest.<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17845759-md.jpg" alt="" width="542" height="680" /><br>

Shot at 200mm ISO 500 1/4000 sec f/3.5 <br>

Here is a link to the PN page if you want to see large. <a href="/photo/17845759&size=md">LINK</a></p>

<p>This shot was also with the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 and Canon 6D. Band outdoors performing on 4th of July with fireworks behind. Not the brightest of scenes either. I pushed the ISO a bit so I could keep an f/4 depth of field. I love this lens.<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17809296-lg.jpg" alt="" width="761" height="700" /><br>

Shot at 121mm 1/125sec f/4 ISO2500</p>

 

[angkordave]

<p>I have been using a 70-200 F4 IS for 3 years now with 5D Mk 2 and a 1.4x Extender. <br />That is a great combination and with the 5 Ds low light performance at even 6400 ISO I could not be happier with this lightweight lens. <br>

I tried the F 2.8 version and I could not see at F4 any difference in IQ. But the weight would mean that I'd leave it at home while travelling. <br>

I was impressed with the 1/4 extender too Its the first one that I can say does not materially affect the image quality even when at the widest aperture of the 70-200 F4 <br />I have no hesitation in recommending it over the F2.8 version.</p>

[greenjeans]

<p>Another vote for the 70-200 F4 IS. I had to micro adjust to a -3 on my 70D, but it is spot on with my 6D. Great lens and very lightweight.</p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>Which of these lenses would be better for functions where low light is the biggest problem.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Anyone of the three F/2.8 70 to 200 L Series Zooms Lenses will allow you TWO STOPS more of shutter speed than the 70 to 300 F4~5.6L IS, or that Tamron lens, at any stated ISO, when the lens is at FL = 200mm, or longer.<br /> Therefore, the generic answer is an F/2.8 Zoom is better -<br /> BUT - <br /> <em><strong>those TWO STOPS of shutter speed might or might not be relevant to your particular shooting situation and the camera that you are using at the time.</strong></em></p>

<p>Therefore - as already asked, more information is required.<br /> Please define:<br /> <strong>> how low is “low light” ?</strong> (goes to defining the three components of exposure – you might not be able to give an EV value/range, but you can outline the typical venue & shooting scenario e.g. High-school Basket Ball Gymnasium; Indoor Swimming Pool; Jazz Club; etc.) <br /> <strong>> what Shutter Speeds do you need to attain ?</strong> (goes to defining what ISO is necessary at the maximum aperture of the lens – e.g. I require a shutter speed of 1/800s or faster for a Backstroke Start at a National Meet, but for an indoor Junior School Gymnastics display I can usually use a slower shutter speed, if I time the shots when the participants are mostly still). <br /> <strong>> what camera you are using ?</strong> (goes to defining suitable/acceptable ISO. e.g. EOS 450D is not as good as EOS 7D at High ISO Values)<br /> <strong>> uses of the final product ?</strong> (goes to defining suitable/acceptable ISO – e.g. web page is not as critical as 11 x14 inch prints)<br /> <br /> WW</p>