Nikon D7000 + SB700 flash sync limits?

[lisa_tiffany]

<p>I'm having a lot of trouble getting my Nikon D7000 to go above 1/320 when I'm using an external SB700. Basically I want to make sure my background is under exposed enough while still being able to use a shallow depth of field with an external flash lighting up my subject. I've made sure to set the D7000 to 1/320 s (Auto FP) so that the flash can go into high speed sync mode but it seems to make no difference.<br>

I'm using manual on both the camera and flash, the flash is set to remote and has no problem getting the signal to fire. Is it a simple case the the SB700 is unable to reach a higher sync speed than 1/320? I really don't want to have to sacrifice depth of field or have to use an ND filter just to shoot faster and still fire the flash. Any feedback would be great, particularly from someone who has the same kit mentioned.</p>

[kari_oinonen]

<p>Lisa, test first with SB700 attached directly to the camera. There are some limitations with the built in flash capabilities - functions and power.</p>

[ilkka_nissila]

<p>I think to do high speed sync faster than 1/320s remotely you need to use a speedlight (e.g. SB-700, 800, 900, or 910) or SU-800 as the commander, instead of the built in flash. Notice that the maximum flash energy in high speed sync mode is reduced by as many stops as you gain the speed over 1/250s (roughly speaking).</p>

[lisa_tiffany]

<p>Thanks Kari you were spot on, it looks like a pocket wizard is the way to go so.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Cheaper, I would think, to get an SB-800 than to buy the expensive PW mini and flexTT5. The equivalent US dollar price here for a pair of (break your) Pocket Wizards is around $450. You could easily get an SB-800 for less than that.</p>

<p>The reason I'd recommend an SB-800 is because it's one whole stop more powerful than your SB-700, with a realistic GN of 28 (metres/100 ISO) as opposed to the true GN of ~22 for an SB-700. If you're trying to overpower the sun or average daylight, then an SB-700 doesn't really have enough power to do that at more than a few feet distance. At 1/4000th sec shutter speed those Guide Numbers will drop to 10 and 7 respectively! And that's using direct flash. If you then want to use any sort of modifier you need to set a high ISO - which kind of defeats the point of using FP synch - or use a lens with a very wide aperture.</p>

<p>Of course the PWs are much more reliable than CLS in daylight, but they still don't get you any more flash output power. And I believe that similar Chinese made products can be bought for a lot less money.</p>

[ilkka_nissila]

<p>Yongnuo triggers are recommended by some: http://www.hkyongnuo.com/e-detail.php?ID=339</p>

<p>I haven't used them personally.</p>

[bnelson]

<p>Ilkka, I have used the triggers and controller and they work great. Some people criticize them, but following a few youtube videos, it explains how to use them properly. And I can even use my old non nikon brand flashes with it.</p>

[orcama60]

<p>The SB-700 is a powerful flash and you should be able to shoot it above the sync speed up to 1/8000 ( if your camera allow it ) by using the TT5 ( or one TT1 and one TT5 ) ... but, above the sync speed, any flash ( SB-800, SB-900 or SB-910 ), not just the SB-700, will loose power so you need to get closer to the subject. <br>

I do have two TT5 and I have been able to shoot my SB-700 above the sync speed. I do recommend to use a f/2.8 lens just in case. See the below picture and tell me if it is not possible. I will not deny that the SB-800 and above flashes are more powerful, but do not underestimate the power of the SB-700 and if you know how to manage the light and some techniques about using it, you should not have any trouble. </p><div></div>

[orcama60]

<p>... and this one, against the sun ... it is not powerful enough ? </p><div></div>

[orcama60]

<p>...http://neilvn.com/tangents/ </p>

<p>... this is Neil Van Nierke website, a professional wedding photographer and a master of using speedlights. Learn from him and forget about if this flash is more powerful than the other or anything else. It is about technique and know how to manage lighting. Unless you want to become a full wedding photographer, your SB-700 is more than enough. Just my 2 cents. Happy shooting!</p>

[ilkka_nissila]

<p>Bill, yes, I've read mostly positive and enthusiastic comments regarding the Yongnuo TTL triggers (YN-622N and TX) but the manufacturer don't list D3 and D4 series as compatible. The price is great - in my country the Yongnuo YN-622N pair costs about 80% less than Pocketwizard equivalent. However, Pocketwizard do list e.g. the D3, D3s, D3X, D4 as compatible cameras. This is of some concern for me, but of course, paying 400% extra for Pocketwizard doesn't feel good. Probably I will wait for Nikon to integrate radio control into their flash system.</p>

<p>I understand the attraction to the SB-800, it is quite compact for the flash energy that it can give, but on the other hand the flash head isn't as flexible as the SB-900/910/700 (for bouncing) and the user interface of the SB-800 is cryptic and slow to use e.g. when you need to go to the menu. For mostly these reasons I moved to the newer flash units which I like a lot. If I need greater flash energy than provided by a speedlight, I use battery powered studio flash. A situation where this might be encountered is when using a large modifier to soften the light (using direct flash to fill or key in sunlight looks quite harsh). I found bundling speedlights behind a single modifier (umbrella, as suggested by McNally) to be clumsy (one of the shoes in my tri-flash broke on the second time I used it, also the setup of three small flashes is quite top heavy), though it does the work if that's what you have.</p>