shooting a wedding outdoor in bright sunny day

[tanya_moe2]

<p>I'm shooting an outdoor wedding on October 4, 2014 at 2pm which is the high peak time of bright sunny days. I'm assuming no shade or little shade. I don't have an assistant & can't use a soft box since that would be very obtrusive during the ceremony. I'm a beginner. I have a canon 60d. I thought of using an external flash mounting on my camera. I thought it s call fill light. I've tried w/ no flash & I get the dark raccoon eyes. If I use the flash do I aim it directly at the couple or do I put the flash all the way up.</p>

[savagesax]

You have to aim the flash directly at the people with no shade. Since the sun is directly over their heads

you may want to rent a powerful flash.

 

Try to find some shade. A soft box won't help at all so leave it home. I think you will be able to find some

shade somewhere. Check out the place before your wedding. Can you go there and let us know what it

looks like, take a few pictures?

 

Giving you any advice right now may simply complicate matters or maybe make things worse.

[green_photog]

<p>Outdoor harsh light, use the flash directly on the subject. You can't bounce the flash and back from the clouds. Some people use modifier but I don't as it cuts down the flash power.</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>Only if the clouds are low can you bounce the flash otherwise direct flash. If you can't get good results with ettl then go manual flash and test your results based on distance from subject.</p>

[tanya_moe2]

<p>thanks everyone. That's what I thought. but i'm a beginner.</p>

[jon_shumpert2]

<p>Hi Tanya. My favorite site for lighting tips is <a href="http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/">http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/</a> There are others, but that is my favorite.</p>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>fill flash<br>

practice practice practice</p>

[pete_s.]

<p>Also try to see how it looks if you dial it down. You have something called flash exposure compensation FEC on your camera and flash.<br>

Sometimes it looks more natural and better with a little less flash light than what the camera wants.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>If this is your first wedding, I highly recommend that you read "Wedding Photography: Art, Business and Style" by Steve Sint. (There's an original edition and one with "digital" in the title. Get the "digital" edition.) There are many books on wedding photography but this is the best. Read it. Memorize it. Do what it says.</p>

[joseph_federer]

<p>I assume you are talking about concerns during the ceremony, itself... because during the directed/posed time, you can control things and can easily just find some open shade (or at the very least, put their back to the sun). <br>

For the ceremony, shoot in manual mode with your exposure set such that it doesn't blow out the dress (or only does slightly in small areas). The background and subjects are going to change so much based on framing/events that anything else is a recipe for disaster. If there are no clouds, the exposure should be the same no matter what -- so figure it out at the start and then just leave it. Manual is way more consistent in that regard.<br>

Unless it's a small ceremony, your flash isn't going to have a big impact on the subjects 100 feet away in mid-day sun. Fill flash is a great suggestion when you are close enough -- but for anything other than an informal, small, wedding -- you'll be too far away for on-camera fill-flash to work. You could try putting some off-camera flashes nearer the front, but given you are already concerned about being obtrusive, I would try to keep it simple.<br>

Shoot at your lowest ISO possible, in RAW. You'd be amazed what modern cameras can pull out of shadows.<br>

Remember that you need/want your subjects to match the background (at least in brightness) for the formals... so you still need to be able to light a group of people out doors. I'd suggest putting the subjects in shade and then lighting them with off camera flash (modified or not depending on how much you are leaning on the speedlights)<br>

During your posed stuff, if shooting in the sun and you can't find shade, use your speedlights (off camera, of course) as fill rather than trying to 'overpower' the sun. Also, dont' forget that you can just embrace the sun -- flare and such.<br>

http://clients.federerphotography.com/img/s7/v159/p71751851-4.jpg<br>

Also -- see if you can shift the schedule around a bit to get some photo time at a less-than-horrible time of day. For example, this couple's entire day was pure sun with no clouds... so we shifted stuff slightly so we could do 'informally posed' stuff for a few minutes later in the evening between other events. (2-3 minutes before dinner, 2-3 minutes after speeches, 2-3 minutes before we left for the night, etc) Just one quick shot (that you have time to pre-set-up) can really make a set.<br>

http://clients.federerphotography.com/img/s6/v137/p469870760-4.jpg<br /><br /></p>

[savagesax]

Joseph - the second image you posted is simply excellent!

[katrin_d.]

<p>Use family members & friends to practice in the meantime. Everything will also depend on the location of the sun - you will most likely want to shoot with two cameras for the ceremony: 1) one metered for the grooms reaction and one for everybody walking down the aisle because if the groom has the sun behind him, you don't have enough time to whip around, change your settings and capture the bride walking down the aisle if you only have one camera given the "high noon" scenario. Practice, practice, practice.</p>

[tanya_moe2]

<p>Thanks for everyone for the suggestions. I tried in Manuel mode & auto mode. After about 10 test shots in Manuel mode I was finally able to correct the exospore so the pictures were not black. I did about 10 test shots comparing auto to Manuel mode to auto mode. In manuel mode I shot at 100-250 iso f4.5/ shutter /1/30-1/60. some of the photos came out but the edges were feathered. in auto 400 iso, f4.5 shutter 1/60 and & photos came out correct. I think I'll stick to auto mode so I'm not sitting there for hours to keep adjusting everything. also does it matter what lens you use. I have a 28-55 mm lens its a pretty good brand lens. I'm assuming I should buy a 28-75 mm lens. my studio is small so the maximum is about 35 mm but at 55mm i'm almost in there face. but not sure if it's worth the investment. Also I've been looking everywhere on the internet for posing idea's & can't find any.</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>Now that you have done some testing and are able to give use some setting information we can better answer your questions.</p>

<p>Based upon your settings you are not in bright sunlight. You say auto and I assume you mean the flash. You don't need to use manual you can use your auto as you say. I assume you have plus or minus compensation on your speed light. That is how you adjust the brightness in an auto mode.<br /> Your shutter speed is too slow which is why you are getting feathered edges. As a rule you should never shoot slower than the lens focal length and it is better to go one stop faster. In your case you should have been at 125. I shoot everything at 200sec regardless of lens unless it is a 200mm or longer. Usually the camera defaults to the camera sync speed when using a speed light when not shooting in manual. Aperture priority will allow the shutter to be slower but this is where you run into problems with feathered edges (blur) It is best to keep you CAMERA on manual at what ever gives you a decent exposure and let the flash fill in the raccoon eyes. The down fall of auto flash is that it can put out too much flash or not enough when shooting into dark clothes and white clothes which is exactly what we face in weddings. Thus manual flash mode is tested, tried and true but that is usually for more experienced users.</p>

<p>Your second question about the lens all depends upon your style of shooting. The lens you have is best suited for family shots and full length shots. Tighter head shots will lack the impact that a medium to telephoto lens will produce. Your shooting space is snug to say the least and you would be better off moving the shoot on location. You will get bored of your picture given your limited ability to be more creative with your choice of lenses.</p>

[tanya_moe2]

<p>Ok, so I kind of get why to shoot in Manuel mode. What the iso, shutter speed & aperture does and why. But I'm shooting a wedding so I will not have a ton of time to keep adjusting all of this & I'm assuming each photo or different photo I take depending on the light I will have to keep re adjusting everything which people are not going to be wanting to stand around for 5 minutes. How do I know what to set so I'm not sitting around playing w all the settings. I wish my area had a photography class.</p>

[t_tran4]

Also, know how to adjust your

flash manually and quickly...

just in case ettl doesn't do it

for you.

[fotografz]

<p><strong>Tanya, I am going to give you advice that others may deem blasphemy!</strong></p>

<p><em>By all means, practice the techniques that others have suggested</em> to see if you can get it down pat so you do not have to think about it very much when shooting your wedding.</p>

<p>However, you do not have very much time until Oct 4 (I have a wedding that day also ;-) Weddings can be unpredictable, and even seasoned photographers can get flustered when the pressure is on to get those "one time" shots … especially in adverse lighting conditions.</p>

<p><em><strong>If you find yourself in a bind, or you go brain-dead, simply set the flash to TTL, and set the camera to P (Program). I tell my less experienced assistants that "P" stands for "Panic" … LOL!</strong></em><br>

<em><strong> </strong></em><br>

Frankly, I usually use powerful off-camera strobes and lighting assistants, but when working alone at a fast paced wedding I've reverted to "P" when faced with really harsh lighting myself. Today's modern cameras (including yours), are very smart in these type situations.</p>

<p>IMO, for you, what is most important is getting the right shots at the right time. That has to be priority #1, not fiddling around with your camera, and raising your level of anxiety because you can't get the exposure right fast enough.</p>

<p>Since you were specifically interested in techniques in no-shade, bright sky, at a less than ideal time of day, I went into my archives to find a similar situation rather than one offering more "creative" opportunities, or use of more sophisticated pro lighting which you may not be able to become accomplished at this fast, or have the gear to even do it. </p>

<p>Here is a ceremony shot from 12 noon to 12:30, no shade, sun coming from directly overhead, no chance to change the time or the location of the ceremony … they were all givens.</p>

<p>I set the camera to P, the flash to TTL and let the camera's CPU do its work. Every shot came out (no raccoon eye, detail in the wedding dress, some detail in the groom's black suit, etc. … and I just concentrated on framing and timing the shots. Admittedly, no award winners, but the ceremony was captured with decent timing and delightful expressions … and no exposure foul-ups. </p>

<p>Nikon camera on regular Program, ISO 250, Nikon flash on TTL, 24-70/2.8 lens (camera set 1/250 shutter and f/14 or 16 for most shots).</p>

<p>Just in case : -)</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[steve m smith]

<blockquote>

<p>Only if the clouds are low can you bounce the flash</p>

</blockquote>

<p><br /><br /><br />Well, you can use a bounce card or adaptor.</p>

[tanya_moe2]

<p>What shutter speed, iso, & aperture do you recommend to use at 2 pm in bright sunlight for the wedding. I'm assuming a shutter speed of 1/200, aperture f4.5 & iso 100?. If this setting doesn't work do I keep adjusting everything. People are not going to want to be standing around while I keep adjusting my settings. Also when I'm doing individuals like just the bride do I have to manually keep re adjusting & then change it again when I shoot the groom & then keep manually changing all day long.</p>

[Bill C]

<p>tanya, there is a rule-of-thumb for setting exposure in direct sunlight. It is to set the lens aperture (f-stop) to f/16, and set the shutter speed the same as the ISO speed (with the American-style numbers, not DIN). For example, if the ISO speed = 100, then set the shutter to "100" (1/100 second).</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>...at 2 pm in bright sunlight for the wedding. I'm assuming a shutter speed of 1/200, aperture f4.5 & iso 100?.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>In this case, the aperture ought to be about f/11. The way I get this is to start with the rule above, which suggests 1/100 second at f/16. To get to the shutter speed you said (1/200 second), I think to myself that the shutter speed is doubled one time, so therefore I need to open the aperture by one full f-stop. Since I memorized the f-stop sequence many years ago, I already know the next number past f/16 will be f/11. If you want to use this exposure method for different f-stops, you should probably memorize the full f-stop sequence (ie., f/4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, etc.). Or write the numbers where you can find them easily.</p>

<p>Note: this exposure rule-of-thumb is for the case where the sunlight comes from behind you, and is on their faces. If they are backlit, meaning that the sun is behind them, the rule doesn't work; you would need to increase the exposure.</p>

<p>I think that for the most part, though, you should be working from your camera's exposure meter, then make slight adjustments as necessary.</p>

<p>Let me warn you about a potential problem (disaster?) when you are trying to force your own settings into the camera, AND using hot-shoe flash, AND in the sunlight. Here's how it might work. Say, under these same conditions, you want to use a lens aperture of f/4 (in order to blur the background slightly?). If the baseline settings, using the rule above, are 1/100 @ f/16, going to f/4 is a change of 4 full f-stops (from f/16 to 11 is one, then to 8 is another, then to 5.6, and finally to f/4). For the same camera exposure, you also need to double your shutter speed 4 times, ending up at 1/1600 second (the sequence is from 1/100 to 1/200 for one "doubling," then 1/400 for another, then 1/800, and finally 1/1600 second). So you are shooting, in sunlight, ISO = 100, at 1/1600 second (or something close to this) @ f/4. Everything is fine, so far, exposures are ok, AS LONG AS YOU ARE NOT USING HOT-SHOE FLASH.</p>

<p>Now for the problem: say that you want to use a hot-shoe flash for "fill." As soon as your camera "sees" that a flash is in use, and will immediately see a problem - 1/1600 shutter speed is way beyond the camera's maximum sync speed (as a guess, sync speed is probably about 1/200 second for your camera). More than likely, your camera will automatically reset exposure time to the max sync speed, ~ 1/200 second. If nothing else changes, this will blow out your exposures; they will be ~ 3 f-stops overexposed! If you are not allowing the camera to readjust the f-stop setting, this overexposure will likely happen - the photos will be no good. So when you are in full sunlight, be very careful about trying to manually control your camera with a fill flash.</p>

<p>If you don't thoroughly understand what is going on in the problem I just described, your best course of action is probably to leave the camera in some automatic mode, and let the camera run the show. (At least when using a hot-shoe flash in the sun.)</p>

<p>I see that you have just over 2 weeks until your wedding shoot. I would suggest that you use the time to fine tune what you already know, and wait until after the wedding to learn the manual operations. Don't forget to have a backup camera system on hand, just in case something goes badly wrong with your main camera. Best of luck to you.</p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>What shutter speed, iso, & aperture do you recommend to use at 2 pm in bright sunlight for the wedding. I'm assuming <strong>a shutter speed of 1/200, aperture f4.5 & iso 100?</strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>No. That would be very bad to use those exposure parameters, because you will be several stops over exposed with those settings.<br>

You’d be much better to follow Marc Williams’ advice and use the Camera in P Mode and with your flash set to TTL.<br>

I'll add that on an EOS 60D you'd be best using the Metering Mode and set to "EVALUATIVE".<br>

Set ISO to ISO200.<br>

Hot shoe mounted Flash.<br>

Point the Flash direct, do not bounce or use diffusers.<br>

If you have a 580 Model Flash, then keep the shooting distances as much as possible, to within 15ft (4meters). If you have a 430 model then you need to be a little a bit closer.<br>

You need to be aware of your Flash recycle time as the flash will be working very hard in that bright sunlight especially as you get toward the 15ft Shooting Distances - so have adequate batteries for your Flash Unit(s)</p>

<p>*</p>

<blockquote>

<p><strong>If this setting doesn't work do I keep adjusting everything. If this People are not going to want to be standing around while I keep adjusting my settings.</strong> Also when I'm doing individuals like just the bride do I have to manually keep re adjusting & then change it again when I shoot the groom & then keep manually changing all day long.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No. I do not advise that you guess exposure settings and then re–guess if the original settings do not work. I do not advise that you continue the guessing of the expousre settings all day long.<br>

That’s correct: people will not want to be standing around waiting for you.<br>

Again, I’d advise that for this shooting scenario, that you use the Camera in Program Mode as Marc Williams has described.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[tanya_moe2]

<p>What's the difference between program mode & auto.</p>

[tanya_moe2]

<p>Should I buy a flash diffuser for my external flash. Also should you always use a flash diffuser such as indoor. I bought I thought a diffuser & it darkened the people at an indoor wedding so I' m really hesitant if I should buy one. I also see people recommend a lens hood. I'm really not to worried my camera is going to break & I'm really not concerned w/ lens flare since I haven't noticed it in any of my pictures. Thanks everyone</p>

[fotografz]

<p>Tanya, I already took the time to answer your question regarding the difference between Program and Auto in my e-mail answers to your p.net e-inquiry.</p>

<p><strong>"A"</strong> does <em>NOT</em> stand for Auto … is stands for <strong>Aperture</strong> Priority mode.</p>

<p>All the modes other than<strong> M</strong> (Manual Mode) are automatic modes where the camera automatically selects something for you … when you select the lens aperture in <strong>A</strong> mode, the camera automatically sets the shutter speed … when you set the shutter speed in<strong> "S"</strong> (Shutter Priority mode), the camera automatically sets the lens aperture for you … if you set P (Program mode), the camera selects both.</p>

<p><strong>Best Advice: I suggest you take a course in basic photography. </strong><em>Unfortunately, there isn't enough time to do that before your wedding shoot on Oct. 4 </em><em>… so Program Mode will be your friend that day.</em></p>

<p>- Marc </p>

<p> </p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>What's the difference between program mode & auto.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>For a Canon EOS 60D, the differences between ‘Full Auto’ (which is designated by the Green Rectangle Icon on the Camera Mode Selection Dial) and P Mode (which is designated by the letter “P” on the Camera Mode Selection Dial) are mentioned on page 113 of the <strong>User Manual</strong>. A full table of the differences are listed on pages 226 & 227 in the same <strong>User Manual</strong>.</p>

<p>As general comments, perhaps most importantly, P Mode allows the User to set various parameters, including but not limited to: ISO; Max ISO Limit; White Balance; Auto Focus Mode; Metering Mode; Drive Mode – whereas ‘Full Auto’ Mode does not allow the user to set these parameters.</p>

<p>P Mode also allows the user to initiate ‘Program Shift’, which allows for the Shutter Speed and Aperture to be changed by the User.</p>

<p>Also P Mode allows more User initiated flexibility, when using a dedicated Flash.</p>

<p>But also, and as already mentioned twice by Marc Williams, P Mode is quite a smart Automatic Mode. It is also my strong opinion is that it will be the most suitable and most productive solution for you to use for your 60D shooting outdoors in sunlight with a Camera mounted Dedicated Flash as Fill. Note in my previous comments that I have suggested Metering modes and also other guidelines.</p>

<p>*</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Should I buy a flash diffuser for my external flash. Also should you always use a flash diffuser such as indoor.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I think that you need to take small steps and I endorse taking a Basic Photography Course, before you buy any more gear.</p>

<p>*</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I also see people recommend a lens hood . . . & I'm really not concerned w/ lens flare since I haven't noticed it in any of my pictures.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I use a lens hood mostly all the time. You might not have noticed Flare simply because you have not shot in conditions which caused Lens Flare.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I'm really not to [sic] worried my camera is going to break.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>If this is a response to the suggestion that you need second camera (and also a second main working lens and a second Flash) for shooting a Wedding, then that is quite a dangerous position for you to take.</p>

<p>WW</p>