User_1577653 Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 <p>I could use some guidance fixing/upgrading a Light box (Logan Tru-View 16"x24") which I use for reviewing slide film. The problem is that it is typically very difficult to turn on - most of the time I can <em>eventually</em> get it to light up, but often only after depressing the ON/OFF toggle switch for an extended length of time, or else making use of a special technique I developed (which to give you a hint, takes advantage of the typical dry climate where I live). But I am tired of fighting with the thing, so it is time to fix it!</p> <p>Presumably this problem is due to the ballast, right (I replaced the bulbs a while back but it didn't help)? Any recommendations for a replacement ballast? From what I have read, it sounds like I should go for a rapid start electronic ballast over the old-style magnetic one in there now. Anything else I should be looking for which is important (ballast factor for example)? Should I also be thinking of switching from T12 to T8 bulbs? I ask because I read somewhere that T12's are being phased out, and I don't want to get stuck with needing bulbs that are no longer available. I should add that I am pretty comfortable with re-wiring, replacing bulb sockets if necessary, etc.</p> <p>Finally, any suggestion as to where to purchase appropriate color-balanced bulbs would be appreciated. I think I can get "daylight" bulbs at my local hardware store, although it is not clear to me how optimal these are for light box use in terms of color temperature and quality (e.g., 5000K vs. 5500K?, CRI rating, etc.).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_simpson1 Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 is the box in which the bulbs and ballast are mounted, wood or metal? fluorescents need a grounded metal enclosure nearby to start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_1577653 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 <p>It is metal.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_mcferren Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 <p>Sounds like it is push to start. If that is the case it is preheat as holding the switch allows it to start. Hold the switches until the ends glow white then release. Since these are T12 24 inch lamps, you don't have to worry about them being discontinued. You would want to got Chroma 50 bulbs (GE), Colortone 50 (Philips), or Design 50 (Sylvania lamps). Try replacing the lamps and for the love of god don't use "Daylight" as those are 1940's formulas and put out horrible light near 6500k.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_1577653 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 <p>Thanks John, that's exactly what I have - push start switch, and two 24" T12 bulbs. The bulbs in there now are Sylvania Design 50's. My recollection is that these were replacements I put in there myself not too long ago, and that they didn't solve the difficult starting issue. That's what had me looking at the possibility of replacing the ballast. </p> <p>Given that my memory is often faulty, I suppose I could get new ones just to be sure, and then go from there. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_mcferren Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 <p>Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. How did this work out, if you are still having trouble and haven't changed the bulbs, hold down the start switch with the cover off and look at the ends glowing. Hold it down for about three seconds and see what colors the ends are glowing. If they are glowing white with or without an orange tint you are good, if they are glowing orange with no hint of white on any end release the switch and see if the tube lights and is steady (if not try a replacement). If the ends don't glow at all, try wiggling the switch when held down to see if that starts glowing, if not then replacements are absolutely necessary.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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