Tripod Recommendations

[jessica_jones7]

<p>I am a hobbyist photographer who travels regularly and would like to see if anyone has recommendations of tripods within a budget. I know it is all personal preference so maybe some background info will lead to a few helpful hints that Photo.net folks always seem to follow through on!<br>

I am 5'5", I shoot in a studio but not often, mostly on excursions but probably use a (borrowed) tripod only half of the time. I shoot film SLRS and toy cameras. I do not own very heavy lenses, but want something sturdy enough for long exposure shots. Lugging a tripod is always a hassle but because I don't use one all the time I can suffer some weight if need-be.<br>

Also I'm a student so I cannot afford to spend more than a few hundred (if even) on a tripod, and will consider an upgrade later in life. :) Perhaps a used tripod would be the best bet, but after researching all of the many brands on this site I am hoping you all could help me narrow it down a bit. Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>Jess</p>

[ljwest]

<p>You can get a nice combo (legs & head) from Manfrotto for under $300 (sometimes under $200). The 190 series (legs) is pretty good, even available in Carbon Fiber (which is lighter and stiffer). If you are buying a ballhead, look for a head that has a separate "pan" function, so you don't need to loosen the ball just to point the camera in a slightly different direction. For example, the Manfrotto 496 & 498 ballheads are basically the same, but the 498 has a separate pan function.</p>

<p>The Manfrotto 055 series legs are heavier duty, but still come at a good price. I use an 055XPROB with a gimbal head for my Canon 7D with a grip, and often a 100-400mm zoom, and recently with a 500mm lens.</p>

<p>Whatever you do, avoid the cheap tripods at box or department stores. They'll be more of a curse than a help!</p>

[jessica_jones7]

<p>I figured just buying anything cheap would bite me in the ass later. What are the differences between the ballheads? Is that something you buy separately from the actual tripod?<br>

Thanks for the quick response!</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Hi Jessica. Larry is right than Manfrotto is a good start for a combination of affordable and usable, although to my mind there are now alternatives that may give better price/performance (I'll let others who own them advise which). The old 190 series Manfrottos are quite decent; the new ones look better, but also carry a hefty price premium. My Manfrotto is a 055CXPro3 - the weight difference over the aluminium version is quite small, but it's detectably more rigid. Actually, putting a 500mm lens on this with a gimbal was what persuaded me to upgrade to a high-end (RRS TVC-34L) tripod, but I was trying to do long exposures with it - it was fine for general use. I'd not go smaller than a 190 series unless you're really ready to compromise stability - even the Manfrotto lightweight tripods I see in stores will vibrate when you breathe on them.<br />

<br />

A portable and relatively affordable alternative to the 190 series is a Velbon REXi L. Dumb name, clever design - it's reasonably light, folds down small, is quite cheap (it's metal), has a <i>very</i> clever quick set-up mechanism, and is surprisingly rigid - though I'm not going to say it's more solid than my 055. If you're not after absolute stability - and it sounds as though you're not - it would be worth a look.<br />

<br />

For very long exposures, vibration may be your enemy. Throwing weight at the problem may help, especially as an alternative to carbon fibre. Looking on ebay for the heaviest tripod you can carry (a friend has what appears to be a Benbo 2, whose weight he can vouch for after letting it fall on his foot) might not be a bad idea. Hanging something heavy off the tripod to weigh it down is usually an option.<br />

<br />

Regarding tripod heads, the best design depends how precise your framing needs to be compared with speed of operation. My general advice would be that, on a budget, you probably need a good reason not to pick a ball head. I keep recommending the Triopo RS-3 for its locking power, but you may not need that for a light system. Some tripod designs - especially with long "necks" - do add a little vibration, but it sounds as though most heads would suit your requirements, so best to play in store and see what feels right when you use it (for me, that <i>wasn't</i> a Manfrotto). For future proofing, I would tend towards something that takes Arca-Swiss-compatible quick release plates, but you can replace the clamp on most tripod heads if you really need to. I would probably stick to conventional ball or pan/tilt heads (or a gear head if you can afford and fall in love with one) if you're worried about vibration (and inducing vibration in the tripod, not just in the head), since pistol grips and the like typically add length to the system (in return for some convenience).<br />

<br />

Good luck! (Oh, and be sure about that long lens comment. I got my 055 and a cheap Giottos head thinking that I'd never own a really big lens, then got more into photography. Oops.)</p>

[mbkissel]

<p>Hi Jessica,<br>

I don't know if you are in the US, but if so, Costco has a really decent tripod that would fit your needs and leave you some change in your pocket.</p>

<p>Here's a link: <a href="http://www.costco.com/Dolica-Proline-60%22-Carbon-Fiber-Tripod-with-Ball-Head-Bundle-.product.11746472.html">http://www.costco.com/Dolica-Proline-60%22-Carbon-Fiber-Tripod-with-Ball-Head-Bundle-.product.11746472.html</a></p>

[pics]

<p>I also have good things to say about the Manfrotto tripods (though it may depend on the model you purchase). I have been using a 3021 Bpro for about 7 years now and it has held up well and everything still works perfectly. I don't think that particular model is made any more and has been updated by something else. I use it with a Gitzo ball head. Gitzos are pricey though and may put you over budget, but there are lots of good alternatives. In the past I also purchased a Giottos tripod and had problems with it. It has a twist-lock method of extending and securing the legs as opposed to the flip locks on the Manfrotto and many others. The twist locks would always stick and required me to bash the legs against something to collapse them. This got old quick and I soon ditched it for the Manfrotto. I wouldn't go so far as to recommend avoiding that manufacturer at all costs (maybe they ironed this issue out), but I would definitely do some research on user reviews by anything made by them.</p>

<p>You can get package deals on tripods/heads, but you would need to research the head that comes with the tripod to see if it fits your needs. Tripod heads basically come in two varieties, ball heads and pan+tilt. I would recommend a ball head (with a pan function) over a three-way pan and tilt head. The pan and tilt heads are good for a studio but are cumbersome in the field. I broke the arms off of two of them hiking in the woods when I accidentally dropped them. Ball heads are also quicker to compose and frame your shot (at least for me)</p>

[Aoresteen]

<p>I bought a Bogen 3040 in 1977 when I was a student. I still use it. Bogen tripods were made by Manfrotto. Rock solid.</p>

<p>Invest in a good Bogen/Manfrotto and you will have it for life!</p>

[jessica_jones7]

<p>Alright it sounds like Manfrotto is the winner, hands down. Ball heads too... so you purchase that separately? Would you advise looking on ebay? Or would that be an untrustworthy way to go. I usually purchase most supplies there but I don't know the lifespan of tripods or heads to understand the used value.</p>

[jessica_jones7]

<p>I looked up the Gitzo ball heads... a lot of the postings state the lbs they can hold. I'm not sure the weight of cameras so what would be a weight I wouldn't want to go under?</p>

<p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gitzo-G1178M-Magnesium-Quick-Release-Center-Ball-Head-with-Quick-Release-/181137305859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2c9ff103</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Jessica: I'd still suggest having a look for that REXi L in a store if you can find one (Manfrottos are pretty common - they should be in most camera stores), but I won't say that a Manfrotto 055 or (probably) 190 is something that you're going to regret hugely, from what you've told us.<br />

<br />

Re. weight capacity for a ball head, I honestly suspect that anything half decent would do you from what you've suggested. The head I never use any more (because I now have big lenses) - <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/490020-REG/Giottos_MH1301_656_MH_1301_Pro_Series_II.html">this one</a> but with a proprietary clamp - is rated at 20lbs/9kg, and it would hold my full-frame DSLR with a 150-500mm lens pretty well. It doesn't sound as though you have anything bigger than that. Sirui make some heads (K-10x, K-20x, K-30x, K-40x) which have much higher capacities and about which I've heard good things, though I've no personal experience. I do have a <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/680971-REG/Joby_BH2_01EN_Ballhead_X_Black.html">Joby Ballhead X</a> which <i>is</i> a little limited in what it can carry (but it's tiny!), but you would have to be going some to have a problem even with that, with a film SLR and smaller lens. The Triopo I mentioned is rated (conservatively) to 20kg, and is dirt cheap, but you may prefer the handling of something else.<br />

<br />

It is worth considerably exceeding the weight of your camera when specifying the head. The head has to hold the camera at an awkward angle, and leverage means that the quoted weight is misleading. However, on a budget, one can over-do it. I would strongly suggest just trying some heads in a store - there are different mechanisms, and some will feel better than others to you. Remember that you may well be adjusting the head quite a bit, so it's worth checking what feels good. I won't particularly criticise Manfrotto ball heads (I have a 393 and I've only good things to say about the 405, so I'm not anti-Manfrotto's head division), but I wouldn't assume they're the best choice either - though it's worth checking for discounts if bought with the tripod. I tried them next to the Giottos I bought, and much preferred the Giottos handling.<br />

<br />

Gitzo are something of a premium brand. They make good stuff (though it has a tendency to bite me), but you might find a cheaper option that meets your requirements from another manufacturer. On the other hand, if you like the feel of the Gitzo head, go with it. Another option, though at more of a premium, is <a href="http://www.photo.net/equipment/tripods/vanguard/bbh-200-ballhead-review">the Vanguard head</a> Photo.net reviewed last year.<br />

<br />

As for where to buy, ebay is not necessarily a bad choice. Photo.net I believe tends to recommend B&H and Adorama, at least, as big US retailers with a good reputation. (If you're not in the US, please advise - I'm in the UK...) Since there's a significant personal component to the handling of tripods and heads - and there are many who swear by the twist locks that Daniel struggled with (the high-end Gitzo and Really Right Stuff tripods use twist locks) - I'd really suggest playing in a camera store if you can. It may be worth any price premium for the confidence of getting the right thing.</p>

 

 

<blockquote>Tripod heads basically come in two varieties, ball heads and pan+tilt</blockquote>

 

<p>I'm going to expand on this a bit...</p>

<dl>

<dt>Ball heads</dt>

<dd>Ball heads are effectively a ball-and-socket joint (like a hip). You unlock the head, you move the camera to where you want (possibly with some resistance so you can control it better), you lock the head again. This is very fast, but arguably not very precise. Almost all heads sag slightly if a lens is pulling them off-axis, which makes precise framing a bit of a pain; good heads don't sag <i>much</i>, so you can usually compensate. Most - but not all - ball heads let you pan around the base (or occasionally the top, or both) for panoramas. There is a surprising amount of variation on this theme. Most heads attach the ball to the camera and the socket to the tripod, but a few invert this; Arca-Swiss have an aspherical ball, Gitzo have an off-centre design, Manfrotto have fluid locks, several have ways of keeping the head shorter for extra stability, etc. A cheap ball head is likely better than a cheap example of most of the other designs. Ones that can carry something heavy without wobbling and with smooth handling carry a premium. Very cheap ones droop depressingly when something heavy is put on them. Most allow you to drop the head over 90 degrees for portrait shooting (with a bit of a loss in stability).</dd>

<dt>Pan/tilt heads</dt>

<dd>Instead of a ball, the head is built out of a selection of hinge joints, each at 90 degrees to the last. You have to unlock them one at a time, which is slower than a ball head, but you can also adjust them one at a time, which can be more precise (so for some people getting the camera pointing in the right direction is actually faster). A lot of very cheap tripods have integrated pan/tilt heads because hinges are cheap to make; these are often awful to use and don't lock hard enough to support much. From the description you gave us, I suggest you're probably after one of these two types. I'll name a few more in case I'm wrong!</dd>

<dt>Fluid heads</dt>

<dd>These are generally a variation on pan/tilt heads, but with fluid bearings that ensure that the head moves smoothly between positions. This is invaluable for video shooting, because it stops the video juddering when you're trying to follow movement. It matters less for still shooting, although it can make getting to a precise position slightly easier than a cheap pan/tilt head which sticks. They mostly carry a premium over pan/tilt heads, though some aren't too expensive. Note that if they only support two directions, you'll have to level the camera by levelling the tripod, which can be a little tedious (or a levelling base, which costs money).</dd>

<dt>Gear heads</dt>

<dd>These usually resemble pan/tilt heads, but the movements are geared; the directions move independently. There are significant variations on the theme - for example, the Manfrotto 410 is reasonably small and affordable; the 405 is bigger and has a trick clutch for getting it into position faster; the (smaller) Arca-Swiss d4 has a different style of trick clutch and can act a bit like a ball head; the Arca Cube (and clones) is very solid and precise, but needs winding into position. The high end are very expensive. For me (I have a d4) the biggest advantage is that you move the camera into position via the head, not by supporting the camera itself. This means that the camera doesn't sag when you've finished - it was already sagging when you were positioning it, if you will. If you really care about precise framing, I would bear this in mind - but it is likely to be overkill.</dd>

<dt>Pistol grips</dt>

<dd>A variation on a ball head, these (and there are again different variations) have a grip that lets you position the head very quickly. They sometimes add additional leverage which makes the solution less stable than a simple ball head. They may be worth considering if moving a ball head via the camera doesn't work for you. Some swear by them; I don't really see that they give me much, and the speed advantage for me is lost by not having my hand on the camera grip and shutter when I'm positioning things (I lock the head left-handed).</dd>

<dt>Gimbal heads</dt>

<dd>Essentially a way of positioning the centre of gravity of a big lens at the pivot point of the head. Wimberley make a well-known option; the Manfrotto 393 is a budget solution. They're generally quite big, and usually not needed unless you have a very big lens in use. If that's you, they're exceptionally good for tracking moving wildlife and sports with a big lens.</dd>

<dt>Panoramic heads</dt>

<dd>A way of precisely positioning the optical centre of the lens at the pivot point of the head, meaning that you can produce stitched panoramas without tearing (theoretically). There are motorized versions too.</dd>

</dl>

 

<p>I've probably missed some (and I'm ignoring accessories like macro rails). I don't suggest that anything but a ball head is your best option, but I also don't want to dismiss anything if you've not considered them. Good luck, and I hope that's more helpful than confusing!</p>

[pics]

<p>Andrew gives a lot of good information. I should probably elaborate on my experience with the twist lock feature that gave me problems, so as to not sound prejudice against it. My issues were only relevant to that particular make (Giottos). As Andrew mentioned, Gitzo tripods use twist locks and they are regarded as being among the best tripods on the market. I didn't bring them up because they aren't cheap and combining a Gitzo tripod with a top end head would probably exceed your budget. I looked at some more recent reviews of the Giottos tripods and didn't see many complaints about their twist lock feature so perhaps my negative experience (over 7 years ago) was isolated, or has been resolved in the design. I can also say that the flip locks on my Manfrotto have never failed or given me problems and I can recommend them for sure.</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Just to sound contrary to Daniel's report (:-)) I <i>have</i> had the flip locks on a Manfrotto Modo tripod break - but they're quite small bits of aluminium on that tripod. The locks on something like a 055 are appreciably more sturdy, and I've seen no signs of trouble. The flip locks on my 055 are a bit of a wrench to open (the new 190 series design may be better), but then so are most twist-locks - though the shaping means that my RRS tripod hasn't pinched my fingers in the way that several Gitzos have when I've tried them. Flip locks do rely on making sure they're at the right tension; it took me about a week to lose the little tool that Manfrotto give you for doing that, but then I'm <i>very</i> incompetent (and I've not needed to adjust them in several years of mild ownership). Fortunately I've not lost the hex keys from my RRS yet, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time.<br />

<br />

No mechanism is perfect. I found the Manfrotto neotech solutions - which sounded really promising - to be pretty fiddly when I played with one, and they're very expensive for the tripod level. I do recommend a play with the REXi L, because its "twist from the foot end" approach saves a lot of fiddling (though long arms help), but it's possibly a bit less flexible if you want significant height differences between legs, and it's dependent on the friction between the leg segments to stop the whole thing collapsing in a way that could potentially go wrong on a bad day. Not that I've seen signs of it, but I've not used mine all that much yet. (That tripod isn't perfect, by the way - there's no integrated bag hook and I have to rubber band a film cannister between the legs to stop them getting crushed in transit, for example.)</p>

[2Oceans]

Jessica, I would recommend looking at some of the good used gear web sites by googling used camera gear. You can

put together a pretty good combination that way for under $200 that will not embarrass you if you do your home work first.

Carbon fiber is often better but aluminum pods are perfectly fine especially if you going with a good brand like

Manfrotto/Bogen. The market has been flooded in recent years by products from companies that did not

exist 10 to 15 years ago. Some of the products look the part but are not very well made while others are pretty good.

Good hunting.

[jessica_jones7]

<p>Wow thanks fellas for ALL of that super helpful info! I'm glad not to be going into this blindly now, I wasn't sure about carbon vs. aluminum prior but I will make sure that is part of my comparison now.</p>

[nathaniel_alpert]

<p>Hello Jessica,<br>

I am sorry to complicate your life but I am concerned that the information you have received will not prove useful to your choice. The Manfrotto tripod legs recommended use a proprietary clamp to mount the tripod. This clamp has proven to be a weak point in the design. More modern clamps use the Arca Swiss design, now a defacto standard used by many manufactures, one which is much more convenient to use, too. Furthermore, there is a special plate that mounts to the base of your camera. It can be very simple but better custom plates have a machined lip that stops the plate from rotating around the mounting bolt. Before you reject this as overkill, something that you don't need, think about the purpose of the tripod and tripod head. It is to hold the camera steady. Any wiggle at the point where the camera is mounted can severely degrade the image quality you are seeking. You could buy the Manfrotto legs and change the clamp but you should also consider manufacturers such a Feisol (e.g 3442, wt ~ 1 Kg) and Benro. Photo Clam makes an adequate ball head with an AS clamp. You would also need a mounting plate for suitable your camera body.</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Belatedly (in case anyone comes back to this thread): Nathaniel, I'm not sure what you're discussing here when you talk about "mounting the tripod". It appears that you're talking about a tripod head, and the fact that most Manfrotto heads use a proprietary clamp (though their latest "Q6" clamp mechanism is, in fact, Arca-Swiss compatible).<br />

<br />

Please bear in mind that almost all tripod legs connect to the tripod head via a standard 3/8" screw, usually with some mechanism to stop the head unscrewing. You can put almost any head on almost any set of legs - it's one of the most compatible standards in all of photography. Perhaps you believe that Manfrotto only sell legs and heads as a kit? That is absolutely not the case.<br />

<br/ >

I completely support the concept of buying a tripod head that's got an Arca-Swiss-compatible clamp on it (although it's not "more modern", it's just that third parties adopted it); this gives you a wide range of camera- and lens-specific quick release plates, and a choice of compatible heads or clamps, without being tied to one manufacturer - though for flip-lock clamps, check the small print about the definition of "compatible". The ability to have mulitple plates for any camera or lens you own, and not have to replace them all if you switch to another head design, is very useful. I'm not an enormous fan of Manfrotto ball heads anyway, but on most you could replace the clamp if you really wanted to. However, since Jessica is apparently after her first system, I would suggest that getting something she can afford and feels comfortable is a priority over future-proofing (we're not looking at high-end heads anyway, in the budget suggested or by the demands of her system), though I would think carefully before buying a large number of proprietary QR plates.<br />

<br />

But, again, this has nothing to do with the choice of tripod <i>legs</i> (with the possible exception that there may be a deal if buying the head and legs together - but they still come apart!) - it's a matter of choosing the head, and with very few exceptions, all legs and heads will mix.<br />

<br />

By way of example, my tripods (that support replacement heads) are: a Manfrotto 055CXPro3 (older, has useful centre column), a Really Right Stuff TVC-34L (very solid, big and expensive), a Velbon REXi L (folds down very small, cheap, not as solid as the others) and a Joby Gorillapod Focus. On each of these, according to need, I use an Arca-Swiss d4, a Triopo RS-3, a Joby Ballhead-X and a Manfrotto 393 (only on the first two). I also have a Giottos head with a proprietary clamp, but I haven't used that in a while (partly because of the clamp, partly because it's not got a stability or size advantage over the others). The d4, RS-3 and Ballhead-X all have Arca-compatible clamps. The 393 has a proprietary plate, which I leave on the bottom of my 500mm lens, since that's the main use I have for a gimbal head. I have a RRS Arca-compatible L-plate on one of my cameras and a few general-purpose Arca-compatible plates that I can switch between whatever else I'm using; I'm likely to get some dedicated feet for my bigger lenses (200 f/2, 70-200 f/2.8) soon.<br />

<br />

When I switched to Arca-compatible systems, that meant it wasn't worth the effort of using the Giottos head any more, though I keep it for holding flash guns. Giottos do make Arca-compatible heads, by the way, it just happens that mine is proprietary. However, the only thing that dictates which of my tripods to use is the combination of weight, bulk, height and stability that I need. I don't put my 393 on my Gorillapod because it won't take the weight of a 500mm lens, not because it doesn't physically fit. Despite owning Manfrotto legs, I have never owned a Manfrotto ball head, and I bought the 393 at a much later date.<br />

<br />

As you suggest, other good leg and head manufacturers exist, most of whom now offer Arca-compatible plates (Manfrotto can afford not to, since they sell large quantities of proprietary items). A dedicated mounting plate is a good way of avoiding the camera twisting and unscrewing itself, although a generic plate will usually hold a camera perfectly steady. On a budget, "need" is over-stating it, though I'd certainly check the camera hadn't come unscrewed before use.</p>