Yashica electro 35 rangefinders.

[baisao]

Additionally, anyone know of there is vertical rangefinder adjustment on the Electro 35?

[winfried_buechsenschuetz1]

<p>I have several Electro35. First, the G in the name has nothing to do with "gold contacts" - even the earliest models had gold plated slide contacts. <br>

I am not sure how vertical adjustment of the rangefinder is done in detail but you have to remove the viewfinder housing first. Usually there is an adjustment screw on the bottom of the small "mirror turret", i.e. the base of the small mirror which is actuated when focussing. You have to adjust the rangefinder first vertically, then horizontally, or in other words, the vertical adjustment probably will disturb the horizontal alignment a bit. <br>

Once you opened the viewfinder, you should clean everything. But do NOT touch the rear surface (towards the eyepiece) of the semi-transparent mirror!</p>

 

[frederick_joicey]

<p>Jim, and others, The more I look at the photos I suspect some of the problem might be lens flare, as that problem occurs when I shot with the sun in front. Other shots, taken in shadow(in the afternoon) are perfect.<br>

Bear with me and I will scan various shots and upload them for your opinions.</p>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>I have just done a rudimentary test on the Yashica, Completely dark in the room. Camera set to B, then I pressed the shutter button; held the shutter open, then with a torch shone light at the back of the camera, all round the joins, hinges, etc. I could see nothing at all whilst looking through the front of the lens towards the back of the camera, not even a glimmer or slight bit of light.<br>

Can I take that as a plus, not necessarily 100%, result ?</p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<blockquote>

<p>"vertical rangefinder adjustment on the Electro 35<strong>?</strong>" <strong><em>Jim T.</em></strong></p>

</blockquote>

<ol>

<li>Remove two screws holding "Battery Check" panel</li>

<li>Use MEK or Acetone to loosen up "loctite" around adjust screw</li>

<li>Move gently and slightly until (a far distance target) <strong>vertically</strong> aligns</li>

<li>Infinity/<strong>horizontal</strong> adjustment<em> access hole</em> under hot shoe "shield/cover"</li>

</ol><div></div>

[baisao]

Thank you, Gus!

[john_robison3]

<p>Pretty camera. Isn't this Yashica a 'auto only' (no full manual exposure control) camera? I see an f stop scale but no shutter speed ring in the photo. Looks like aperture preferred auto only for exposure control. I've always had an irrational dislike of auto only cameras but this Yashica seems to have acquired quite quite a fan base. My negative feelings toward auto only cameras are probably unwarrented but well.......there it is, too old to shake it now. </p>

[john_robison3]

<p>Pretty camera. Isn't this Yashica a 'auto only' (no full manual exposure control) camera? I see an f stop scale but no shutter speed ring in the photo. Looks like aperture preferred auto only for exposure control. I've always had an irrational dislike of auto only cameras but this Yashica seems to have acquired quite quite a fan base. My negative feelings toward auto only cameras are probably unwarrented but well.......there it is, too old to shake it now. </p>

[winfried_buechsenschuetz1]

<p>Yes, this is a "fully auto" camera. Only "manual" shutter speed is 1/500 sec if you remove the battery. You can set the aperture accordingly. <br>

The B setting on the "shutter" dial works with battery only. <br>

Once these beasts work, they work great. I had excellent results even with nighttime shots (with a tripod, of course) and automatically controlled exposure times of several tens of seconds. <br>

@Gus: thanks for showing a less invasive way to the vertical adjustment. I used to work a lot on the E35 (once I owned half a dozen or so, I have reduced this to three E35 and most, if not all, other rangefinders of the Electro series) but I have forgotten a lot. </p>

 

[sebastianmoran]

<blockquote>

<p>yet a few have what looks like may be light leaks, but I would have thought if that was the case, then a light leak should show up, most likely on every shot.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Think of is this way. If it's a light leak, say in the seals, then the light is coming in when the camera is idle in bright light. And, where will it hit? Probably not on the frame behind the lens. So, it might be very different from frame to frame<br /> <br /> In my experience, the Electros leak at the film door hinge, even when they come back from work by good people. Try a half case and see if this helps reduce the leak. I added additional velvet material at the film door hinge on several of my Electros. See <a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108016">this thread on another site</a> with several examples of leaks at hinge door.</p>

<p>FWIW, I think the Electros, with a clean lens, are quite resistant to flare. But, show us some examples.</p>

[sebastianmoran]

<p>To test for light leaks: <br /> - Load the camera.<br /> - Remove the battery (so it'll fire at 1/500th) and put on the lens cap (to minimize exposure through the lens).<br /> - Shoot four blank frames. <br /> - Leave the camera in bright light for a couple of days. Now take a photo and advance the film.</p>

<p>Shoot the rest of the roll. Check the first four frames to light leaks. See the thread I linked just above.</p>

[baisao]

<blockquote>

<p>I've always had an irrational dislike of auto only cameras but this Yashica seems to have acquired quite quite a fan base.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I feel the same way and it is a strange feeling to not be able set the exposure off of some other surface than what is in front of the camera. With my other cameras I may meter off of a floor to take a shot of something nearby but with very contrasty light. Can't do it with the Yashica.</p>

<p>However, my experience is that it handles difficult lighting very well. Dark stairwells with bright splashes of light on the walls? No blowouts and dark details render well.</p>

<p>Another thing that surprised me was the sharpness of the lens and the pleasing (to me) out of focus rendering. For a 47 year old stamped metal, mass market camera an old CdS cell I wasn't expecting much but the little camera delivers.</p>

<p>I find it slow to operate as I am frequently adjusting stops because of the warning lights, but I am impressed by my Yashica Electro 35. It won't replace any rangefinder in my collection but it is fun to shoot and a much better camera than going prices would suggest.</p>

<p>Click through to see a larger image...</p>

<p><a title="Meadow's Edge by Baisao, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3793/9602579689_084c6a6b90_c.jpg" alt="Meadow's Edge" width="534" height="800" /></a></p>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>I have scanned some of the photos from first use of the Electro 35, and some show what might be lens flare; others possible light leaks; and yet there are some of the photos absolutely perfect. Hoping some of you can provide interesting comment re the possible defect.<br>

However, I am now lost as to how to attach the scans to this post of mine. Any help/suggestions.</p>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>Just done a search on Photonet, and found a similar query to mine, so hopefully I can now attach the photos.</p><div></div>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>Struggling a bit at the moment, but have managed the above 3. I will try and add some more.</p><div></div>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>And here are some which are near perfect exposure. Two shots of a house/roses - 1st one taken with camera doing the work - assuming it was working correctly. The 2nd assuming shutter firing at 1/500 sec, and used appropriate aperture from using a light meter.</p><div></div>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>Looks like I am getting the photos uploaded, but too large a file ? When clicking the attachment it opens up in another window. Probably get it right eventually.</p><div></div>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>If I have done anything incorrectly re the uploading of the photos, my apologies. But if anyone has any observations re what is happening, I would be grateful.<br>

Thanks.</p>

[baisao]

Tape your hinge and see if that helps.

[sebastianmoran]

<p>Frederick, that's a light leak, probably at the hinge door. It's very similar to what I showed in my "light leak" thread linked above (<a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108016">link repeated</a>).</p>

<p>My solution: add seal material at the hinge (sticky-back velvet or foam).</p>

[frederick_joicey]

<p>Jim, and Sebastian, Thank you both for that suggestion, and I will give that a try. I have seen your 'light leak' thread, and will go into that fully.<br>

Sebastian now just had a look at your link, and things are becoming a little clearer for me. If I am correct in my asumption, the camera is taking close to perfect shots, and then when the film is wound on, when a properly exposed frame is 'stationary' near the door hinge, - that is the time when light is getting to the frame. Yes, that makes sense to me now. Perhaps at times I have had my right hand over the door-hinge area, preventing light getting inside. I had been assuming that light was getting to the frame when it was directly behind the lens.</p>

 

[sebastianmoran]

<p>Frederick, I think you've got it. At least, that's what I discovered.</p>

<p>For the benefit of others reading along, my test was: shoot two frames, wind through four blank frames, leave camera in the light for a couple of days with frame 7 behind the lens, then wind-on a couple more blanks. Here's what the developed film looked like. (Some dark right at the edges are typical for me with my bulk-loaded film.)</p>

<p><img src="http://2under.net/images/GSN-Light-Leak-Test-700px-Annotated-P1000972.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="181" /></p>

<p>My interpretation:<br>

- A is the primary light leak, from door hinge onto the take-up spool.<br>

- B is print-through of sproket holes at A onto the film one layer down on the take-up spool.<br>

- C is the film at or near the advance sprocket, light going behind the take-up spool and then through the anti-halation backing? The thin dark line to the left of C is real and repeatable; what is it?</p>

[baisao]

Very savvy test, Sebastian. As for the line next to C, I am stumped at the moment. It looks very precise.

[sebastianmoran]

<p>The line next to C? Looking at the geometry, it's next to the edge of the pressure plate. I don't know.</p>