Using Speedlights with Hasselblad 501cm

[joel_b.1]

<p>My process for using speedlights with the 501cm is cumbersome and I wonder if you have suggestions for how I might improve my process.</p>

<p>Once on location, I set up a Nikon SB910 with its hotshoe in a Phottix Stratos radio receiver, on a lightstand behind an umbrella. Then I set up my Hasselblad on a tripod with a 80mm CFE lens. </p>

<p>Next I take the Phottix transmitter and plug it into the port on a Sekonic L-608S meter. </p>

<p>I set the speedlight to manual and make a ballpark guess about how much power I will need. Then I ensure that I have the ISO on the Sekonic set to match my film speed. Then I activate the flash metering mode on the Sekonic, hold it in place in front of the subject, and use the Phottix transmitter to pop the flash. </p>

<p>I consult the results on the Sekonic. If it's above or below my desired exposure, I go back to the speedlight and dial it up or down as appropriate, then repeat the metering to see if I've got it right. </p>

<p>Once I'm satisfied that the speedlight is providing appropriate output for my desired aperture and shutter settings, I disconnect the transmitter from the Sekonic, and attach it to the jack on the Hasselblad lens, using the hotshoe on top of my camera's PME5 prism finder to hold the transmitter. </p>

<p>Then it's time to set my desired aperture and shutter speed, focus, and shoot. </p>

<p>This whole dance can take some time, and I wonder if there are more efficient processes I should be using. Maybe I just need more practice. </p>

<p>I only very recently got the SB910 and before that was using a fully-manual Yongnuo. I am very pleased using the SB910 for TTL on my digital camera, but of course must use it in manual mode when using the Hasselblad. I offer this point of information lest you think me foolish for buying an expensive TTL flash and then only using it in manual mode. Actually, to tell the truth, the Yongnuo was a lot easier to use for film than the SB910, with all its complicated menus and buttons.</p>

<p>Anyway, as always for any suggestions you may have!</p>

 

[BrianS1664879711]

<p>If I read the post correctly, it seems like you just need more practice.</p>

[joel_b.1]

<p>Thanks for your response, Brian. I take you to mean that I'm not doing anything stupid, and just need more practice to make the process more fluid. </p>

[BrianS1664879711]

<p>No, nothing sounded stupid to me. In fact, it sounds quite like what I do. It always seems to take longer than it should. Any time I've seen other photographers do things like this faster it is generally in situations where they already have the details worked out and the gear pre-configured.</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>Why not just buy a simple little adapter which accepts your hot shoe flash and to which you can attach a standard PC flash cord? Then hook the other end directly to your Hasselblad, using an extension cord if necessary (very cheap) fire the flash on the test button and use the meter in cordless mode (or if easier, just unhook the PC cord from the Hasselblad and connect it to the meter to take a reading, then re-connect it to the Hasselblad).</p>

[joel_b.1]

<p>I understand the virtues of the sync cord, David -- for one thing, no batteries to fail! -- but I also really like the freedom of the wireless triggers. </p>

<p>I was thinking about another tactic -- what if instead of using the light meter, I used a DSLR to do my metering for me? I could put the radio trigger on the DSLR and shoot a frame, check the exposure and histogram, adjust the flash if necessary, repeat, and then once I'm happy with the exposure, I put the radio trigger on the Hasselblad and make the "real" picture. </p>

<p>This seems simpler than my current process, and has the added virtue of giving me an immediate rough preview of what the film negative will look like, sort of like folks used to do (and I suppose some still do) with polaroid backs. Might give it a try! Thoughts? </p>

<p> </p>

[sheldonnalos]

<p>Sounds like you're on the right track. Only other thoughts would be about leaving yourself open to making adjustments on either the camera or on the flash depending on what you are trying to accomplish. The camera settings don't necessarily need to remain static, and you might be able to cut down the number of back/forth iterations with flash power adjustments depending on what you're trying to do. And in some situations, you may actually have to adjust both the camera and the flash to get the right exposure.</p>

<p>If ambient light is a consideration in your shot, take into account both the global exposure of the scene from the camera's POV (reflective metering) and also the contrast ratio given by your light meter (see the % figure on the Sekonic) that tells you what your ratio of flash to ambient is from your incident metering. Controlling this is very important to the look of the photo you'll get (flash dominant vs subtle flash).</p>

<p>If the scene is totally lit by flash, then maybe the camera settings don't matter as much. Get a reading of f/8 and the camera is set at f/5.6? Just walk back to the camera and set f/8 and you're done. Of course, this depends on DOF considerations, but just trying to illustrate flexibility in making quick adjustments.</p>

<p>Also, you shouldn't need to plug the trigger into the meter to take a reading. Just hold the meter in one hand and the trigger in the other and pop the flash. I do this all the time, just switch the Sekonic into the basic flash mode rather than the corded flash mode. </p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>I do pretty much the same thing using my Sekonic meter (don't know the model number offhand) and PocketWizards. Only difference is I use the meter in cordles mode so there's no need to plug in and unplug the PocketWizard on the camera end. I don't find it to be a particular problem.<br /><br />Is your Sekonic one of the ones with PocketWizard built in or with the option for it? if so you could trigger the flash directly from it. But that would require switching to PW rather than Phottix, so it might not be worth the extra cost.<br /><br />I agree that a $500 speedlite is overkill once you put in on manual. I have an SB-900 but I use my old Vivitar 285 units it for location work and my old Novatron monolights in the studio.<br /><br />As for using a DSLR as a meter, you can do that in theory but I think there's been some debate on the accuracy. With film, I usually go with whatever the meter says and if it turns out to have been off a fraction of a stop I compensate for it when printing. But with digital I usually start with the meter reading, fiddle around a lot because the LCD and the histogram don't necessarily always agree with the meter, then look at the files on the computer later and usually decide I would have been just fine with the meter reading.<br /><br /></p>

[joel_b.1]

<p>My thanks to Sheldon and Craig for your helpful comments.</p>

<p>Sheldon, you're right that I don't need to plug the Sekonic into the transmitter, and right too to remind me to keep the ambient / flash ratios in mind. I use flash only as subtle fill and my goal is that its effects are "invisible," so to speak. My Sekonic (L608) doesn't have a "% figure" on it, so I'm not sure what you mean by that. </p>

<p>Craig, no, my Sekonic is more basic and doesn't have the PocketWizard module, and I don't think I'm moving to PW any time soon, since these cheapo Phottix triggers have been super consistent for me. Thanks for your input about using the DSLR to meter; it's very helpful. </p>

<p>Thanks again, everyone. I'm off to experiment. It's good to know I'm roughly on the right track. Cheers, Joel</p>

<p> </p>

[BrianS1664879711]

<p>Maybe you need a new meter? :) My 558 has % flash and I find it very useful. It has all sorts of other stuff on it that I never use, but that feature is really nice. The 558 seems to be available for decent price, and the 778 has even mroe features... like it will rub your feet when they are tired and sweaty. ;)</p>

[BrianS1664879711]

<p>p.s. Maybe you don't need a new meter. Check out page 32 of your meter's manual. Isn't that the meter function that could use?</p>

[joel_b.1]

<p>Well I'll think about it, Brian -- heaven (and Amex) knows I do love to spend money on gear -- but I my Sekonic L608 is pretty cute (it's red!) and has served me pretty well . . . Plus, I aspire to one day completely internalize Fred Parker's Ultimate Exposure Computer and just meter with my eyeballs . . . </p>

[joel_b.1]

<p>Uh oh, I'm afraid I'm about to be ashamed of myself for not having read past page 2 of my manual . . . </p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>You don't really have a hot shoe, it's just a shoe. The only electrical connection is through the lens contact.</p>

<p>I use the same procedure you describe. I attach a transmitter to the meter (mine is a Sekonic L-508), and trip the flash from the subject's position. I set the camera to that f/stop and the shutter according to ambient light for the desired lighting ratio. That works equally well with a monolight setup. By the time light bounces off an umbrella, the SB-900 doesn't have much light to spare.</p>

<p>I also use the flash (an SB-900) on the camera, using the AUTO setting on the flash. The flash measures reflected light and quenches the flash when the set exposure has been achieved. That works very well for event and wedding candids, better than the internal meter on my ELD body. Sometimes I use a flash bracket (RRS) to hold the flash about a foot above the lens. Less chance of redeye that way.</p>

[keith_pitman]

If you are trying to avoid unplugging and replugging, you can get a (Paramount) Y-cable and leave your meter and

wireless receive connected all the time.