Reality Check: How usable are legacy lenses on modern Pentax dSLRs?

[tomadakis]

<p>Douglas, you should consider Adobe Lightroom as your digital dark room...</p>

[michael_kuhne]

<p>I'd say start out simply at first. Employ the software supplied with the K-3, of course. Then a basic modification "darkroom" such as Adobe Photoshop Elements- I think version 12 is out, and have not yet heard how it is. Many of us have jumped right into an expensive "pro" photoshop software, then found we still prefer to use our basic one nearly all of the time. I'd say shoot JPEG images at least for a while to get used to dealing with digital imaging and advance from there, as your needs dictate.</p>

<p>The K-3, like the K-5, has a marvelous control layout, for efficient fingertip control of metering, exposure, etc. etc. Don't overlook the presence of the Pentax Hyper system for both "P" Program mode and for "M" Manual mode of operation. In (Hyper) "P" mode you can adjust aperture or shutter speed on the fly without having to switch to Av or Tv mode first. You can first quickly use the on-body meter control to switch to spot meter to take a reading of a certain area, hit the AE lock button to lock exposure, then adjust aperture or shutter speed as you wish. Upon hitting the green button, full automatic "P" operation is instantly restored.<br />In (Hyper) "M" mode, you can likewise switch to spot meter, and take instant meter readings around a scene by just hitting the green button, whereupom both aperture and shutter speed will be immediately set for correct exposure of that spot. From there you can make adjustments of a preferred aperture or shutter speed by using the thumb and finger dials. You can hit the AE Lock button right after getting exposure set from using the green button. This will allow you to adjust aperture with the thumb dial while the shutter speed will automatically follow that change to preserve the exposure! Same with the aperture if you choose to change shutter speed.</p>

<p>This is a remarkably fast and efficient system, with on-body controls, no menu involved. It is unique to Pentax. I think you will love your new camera. I also own that Pentax DA 18-135mm WR lens. I find it to be a very fine and useful lens, well-made with excellent handling. Very versatile. As to your original question, I have used my Pentax DSLR bodies with my old "M" lenses successfully. You have to first enable aperture ring use in menues. You can set exposure quickly in M" mode by using the green button as usual. The exposure is off by a different degree at various aperture settings, but you get a feel for this after a little experience and you soon learn to compensate which is fast with your thumb and finger dials.</p>

<p>We don't yet know for sure how the K-3 will compare in noise performance to the K-5, which is excellent. But I have little doubt that you will find it to be superior to film in grain at higher ISO use.<br /><br /></p>

[doug elick]

<p>Thanks for the advice, I quite appreciate it. </p>

<p>I'm not completely green to digital image processing; I used the Canon and have been playing with images for Astrophotography. Since they're free, I already have IRIS, Gimp / UFraw, Raw Therapee and will check out LightZone. I'll probably wind up with Lightroom, but I'm not sure about full on PS - I'll be blunt and say most of what I see done with PS is not photography at best, garish crap at worse and I want nothing to do with it (please, I'm not trying to start a holy war in this thread). Lets just say I'm on the "FoundView" side of the scale - just tweaking the gamma, saturation, sharpness, etc. If I can't find inspiration in the world, I'm doing it wrong.</p>

<p>I'm hoping the K3 isn't behind (to far) the K5 as far as DR and noise are concerned.</p>

<p>Doug</p>

 

[doug elick]

<p>On a side note, one of the things I miss in our digital world is film grain. There is merit in salt 'n pepper grain, weird bokah, flare, skewed colors, long toe curves, etc. I miss Kodachrome, Verichrome Pan, Ektachrome...</p>

<p>Doug</p>

[doug elick]

<p>I have the K3 in hand! Bwahahaha! I have to say I like the kit lens, but I really got spoiled by my f3.5 35-135mm and f1.4 50mm. The A zoom is easy to use; the M lenses take a little more work, but the green button or even better stopping down using the DoF preview on the power switch makes metering pretty easy. And the old M 2.8 28mm is pretty much a pancake prime on this body.<br>

Of course I sit here with a brand new camera and it's dark and rainy outside. Still, I'm STOKED!</p>

<p>Doug</p>

[michael_elenko]

I'm happy for you. Mine must have been sent from B&H by packet boat via Tierra del Fuego as it won't be here until next

week. And I ordered three weeks ago. Errrrgh.

 

ME

[hinman]

<p>I can smell the new camera here. I once blogged about the 28mm and 50mm as the pancake clones in disguise. They are indeed very thin and small primes that one can enjoy with compactness. <br>

<img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/hinioman/misc_4sales/IMGP3737.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="536" /></p>

<p>Hope more good news to come from Pentax. The 20-40mm f/2.8-4.0 limited lens with weather sealing is a great lens to drool over. If I pick one prime to go out, it will be either the 21mm or the 31mm and this zoom cover my most used range. And this new zoom with weather sealing and limited build will get the Pentax core members invigorated. </p>

<p>Maybe you can tell us more with what you like to shoot most and we can have a more follow up discussions on what lenses are among our favorites. My most favorite zoom in Pentax up to current time is the Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8 -- it is the best zoom lens in terms of picture quality that can rival the best prime lenses. My most admired limited lens is the FA 77mm f/1.8, followed by 43mm limited. The DA 70 and 40 are just as good but I always prefer the FA limited for the possible Pentax FF in the future and the gain of speed in the old series. My most used limited lens is the DA 35mm f/2.8 macro as I am some weirdo who shoots lens and cameras just for the love of it. And my traveling must have prime is the DA 15mm f/4.0 limited. My bird shots and air show always go with F* 300mm f/4.5 and the ever wonderful AFA 1.7x TC. My event zoom are the trusty Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 and DA* 50-135mm. My most fun lens is the DA 10-17mm fish-eye -- it is always rewarding to bring it along on occasion and it excels at night with a tripod for the sky shots. </p>

[doug elick]

<p>Honestly, for many years the fast 50 was all I owned. And later a sort of fast 75 on a TLR. I think the limitation was useful in my formative years. I do find I gravitate towards fast lenses. Zooms are nice, but it's hard to swallow that f3.5-5.8 pill. I don't really do much action, do the AF system isn't that important to me. And honestly, in the past, i was all about prefocus, pre-exposure (hyper focal distance) and a good eye. <br>

I still love my 35-135 and see it edging out the kit lens at the far end since it's constant aperture even out to 135. I might walk the city with the f2.8 28mm "Wide" lens, since it'll more or less be a prime in APS-C land. I think my next lenses will probably be a fast, wide prime and perhaps somehow that goes longer than the 135. BTW, the K3 sporting the 35-135 is slightly reminiscent of my C330 - heavy!<br>

I have much to learn - the buzzilion options on the K3 and the digital darkroom workflow. I have a good textbook understanding, but have way too many holes in my knowledge. By the way, I concede my earlier statements about Photoshop, et al might sound acerbic or judgmental - that wasn't my intent. I'm just a little fed up with the artificiality I'm perceiving in today's world.<br>

I like to shoot architecture, nature, friends, weather, astronomical objects, whatever catches my eye. And I think most of the beauty I see is in the morning or evening light (or even night) when that fast lens is worth gold. I've never really thought about it - I've felt my "eye" coming back and have been tired of not having a good carry camera. I still have a love for B&W and MF cameras, but those have become a niche. I'm super excited to have a camera platform this versatile with such great sharpness and color rendition - and I can afford it! </p>

<p>Now if somebody would just bring out a DTLR!</p>

<p>Doug</p>

<p> </p>

[doug elick]

<p>First picture from the K3. Since it was dark and rainy, I grabbed a shot of my dog on the back porch. ISO 3200, SMC-M 50mm f1.4. Just a 60 watt light above. Processed with no sharpening or denoise in RRP 64<br /><br /><br /></p><div></div>

[hinman]

<p><a title="IMGP4497 by hin_man, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3240/2984901439_6f6cf3d2d7_b.jpg" alt="IMGP4497" width="1024" height="685" /></a></p>

<p>I probably shot this with a manual 50mm without the A setting, very likely the M 50mm f/1.8. The background has great color and bokeh. It is a shame that I no longer have both lenses. One thing to suggest if you have not done so is to remember to purchase the 2 year extended warranty. <br /><br /><br /> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1002058-REG/pentax_85716_all_inclusive_extended_warranty.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1002058-REG/pentax_85716_all_inclusive_extended_warranty.html<br /><br /><br /></a><br /> It is currently out of stock but this is a must purchase for the new body to get some re-assurance in case something breaks in the first 3 years. I did have the unpleasant and hopefully unusual experience of 2 dead Pentax bodies with a <a href="http://www.techtheman.com/2010/08/pentax-k-x-dead-with-memory-card-error.html">dead K-x</a> and a <a href="http://www.techtheman.com/2012/02/mad-pentax-k7.html">dead K20D</a> back to back in 2010 and 2011. CRIS, the outsourcing repair service from Pentax at the time fixed them both like new. It was the <a href="http://hintheman.blogspot.com/2011/11/backyard-tomato-with-story.html">GREEN button</a> that killed my K20D indirectly. The K20D incidence happened in 3.5 year and the extended warranty got expired but I was pleasantly surprised how good CRIS revived it from the Pentax grave though I paid out of my own pocket for the repair. The Pentax service department is the notorious one to deal with but once the broken camera got over to CRIS, everything was dealt with professionally and I couldn't be happier to recommend straight dealing with CRIS when one's camera is out of warranty. <strong>Extended Warranty -- please remember.</strong></p>

[hinman]

<p>@Douglas, a great photo that you post. A lovely dog that I want to hug right the way. You should be proud of your K-3 and your great companion. </p>

[MattB.Net]

<p>Here's a photo I shot recently for this young lady's senior portrait with my K-5 and Sears 135mm f/2.8. We did most of the shoot with a Tamron 28-75 2.8 but I also wanted to get the 135 out for it's retro looking rendering. It took a moment to get the focus right on, but it worked pretty well for this I thought. I like the A series lenses so I can use my favorite mode Av which is what I was using here. <br /> <a title="IMGP8099-Edit by MattB.net, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3678/10720577703_5ca041f3ee_z.jpg" alt="IMGP8099-Edit" width="424" height="640" /></a><br /> .<br /> Also, I just got my K-3, it's sitting here in front of me. Later today I'm going to a school production at my son's school so that will be it's inaugural event!<br /> Ergonomics feel great, like the K-5 but better.<br /> Hope yours comes soon, ME!</p>

[andrewg_ny]

Douglas, congrats on your new camera. Which 35-135 zoom are you using? The Pentax models I'm familiar with are:

 

1. A 28-135/4

2. A 35-105/3.5

3. A 35-135/3.5-4.5

4. F 35-135/3.5-4.5 (autofocus)

 

1 and 3 are pretty rare

2 is common and well-regarded but doesn't reach 135, only 105

3-4 are variable-aperture, the autofocus F is relatively common

 

The only constant-aperture model to 135 is the relatively rare 28-135/4.

[doug elick]

<p>Yup, you're right, it's a f3.5 35-105 Pentax A. I shouldn't post late at night. Never the less, it's a big, heavy chunk of glass i quite enjoy.</p>

<p>New lenses are ever sharper and contrasty, but sometimes that's not what I want. The f1.4 50mm wide open isn't bleeding sharp, but it has a lovely look to me. I should do a few tests with the 50mm and the kit 18-135 set to 50 (@ same aperture); maybe I'm full of it and I won't be able to tell if there's a difference, but my gut says there is.</p>

<p>Doug</p>

[andrewg_ny]

Douglas, that A35-105/3.5 has remained popular (for a manual focus zoom), I have one of these myself. If you like that

approximate focal range on film, you might enjoy the autofocus FA 24-90/3.5-4.5 on your K-3. It is one of Pentax's best-

performing zooms, and while it shares the A35-105/3.5's 67mm filter size, it's more compact and handles really nicely on

DSLRs, sort of right-sized.

[jeremy_corbin]

<p>I'm a bit late to the party, but I have a nickle's worth to add:</p>

<p>I have the *istDS. I love the damn thing. I still use it. It's simple, but my biggest beef is that I'm required to menu dive a little more than the K10.</p>

<p>The K10 is lovely and is a work horse. I have two of them and it has been lovely. I have issues with it, no doubt, but it's been reliable enough for paid work. I stay under ISO400 unless I have one of my experimental "fits."</p>

<p>I use the DAL35/2.4 and the Jupiter9 85/2 for 99% of my paid work. They're obviously at very different points in the spectrum... The 35/2.4 is a modern lens with all the coatings and such. No Aperture ring, but Manual Focus is perfectly adequate for paid work. It's sharp enough to cut someone at f/4. The 85/2 is a M42 that I've perma-mounted the ring adapter to. It's finicky and weird and a gem for the patient-minded... and I STILL use it for paid work. It's mushy at f/2, but fairly good at f/4. Metering is generally +1 on the J9, but it is consistent.</p>

<p>I used Lightroom 2.7 for a very long time and only recently upgraded to LR5. It's a noticeable change. I use LR for 99% of my work and rarely RARELY need to port something to GIMP for some very specific work. To date, there is nothing that GIMP can't do that I needed it to. I'm with the OP as far as Post-Processing-Minimalism. "If it needs more than 5 minutes of massaging I should have made a better photo to start with." But that motto isn't for everyone, nor should it be. I run Windows in a Virtual Machine ontop of Linux... I'm a touch annoyed by the processing time (exporting) of my photos with only 8GB and 3Cores@3.1GHz worth of number-crunching to push it through, but when I ran LR natively there was no noticeable difference. A C2D Mac might become frustrating if there are deadlines to meet, but if it's all "art" then there should be no need to worry.</p>

<p>I don't shoot sports or events. Speed is only moderately important for focus. Clean, High ISO ability has only cursed me a few times, but it was REALLY bad when I stepped out of my comfort zone to shoot an Event... Clean Images at High ISO was necessary and the K10 doesn't have it. What I do is blend natural light with strobes for portraits... The combination above works well for that, but I'm far from a professional. I'm more of a "well-compensated free-lancer" in my spare time.</p>