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What else do I need?


joel_stowe

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Hello folks, I am looking at getting back into Wedding Photography but with digital. Right now I have a Nikon

D300, Tokina 50-135, Tamron 17-50, and Tokina 11-16 and also a Tamron 28-105. I have software wise now

Portrait Professional and Elements 10. Laptop is an ASUS I5 processor with a gaming video card and 12 gig of

ram.

 

I am planning on getting another D300 and a 23" Monitor.... What kind would you recommend on monitor..

 

What else do I need, and why.... I have a background of 10 years of Wedding Photography and have been out

of the business for 8 years...

 

Thanks Joel

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<p>What’s your shooting technique plan – two working cameras: one with 17 to 50 and the other 50 to 135? If that is the case, I’d be getting (at least) TWO dedicated Flash Units – one for each camera: why? - because that’s just efficient.<br>

<br>

A Fast Prime wouldn’t go astray, a 30/1.4 would suit (providing 2 stops). Why? - for the case of “NO Flash Allowed”– AND – also that gives you one level of System Redundancy if the Tamron 17 to 50/2.8 goes down.</p>

<p>Shooting as a Second, for a few jobs; why? - to get the flying hours up would be a good idea.</p>

<p>Renew any old Contacts and get new ones; have good shoes & a wholesome Business Plan: why? – because in most countries it’s reasonably tough starting. </p>

<p>Probably ‘Lightroom’ would be the (one of) the most suitable Wedding PP Suites – I suggest you have a look at that.<br>

<br>

WW</p>

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<p>I think I'd probably suggest a look at your lighting. The D300 isn't too great in the higher ISO ranges, and a properly used flash will allow you to shoot at much lower ISOs.</p>

<p>Also, I'd at least try out LR5. It's got some beta hiccups, but the interface is darn near identical to LR4, 3, and 2, and (until they release LR5) it's Beta is free. When you need to pay for it, it is darn near free for what you get. It is, IMO the single best workflow management and 'lightweight' photo editor rolled into one in existence...</p>

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Hi Joel, before I answer, let me explain that I got into digital late, 2009 after using 6x6 for 23+ years and it was a BIG

adjustment. Knowing what I know now I would recommend getting two flashes for fill or whatever, a good folding reflector

to use as fill on faces to lighten up the eye sockets, too common a problem I see everywhere. A few basic fast lenses like

35 f1.8 and 85 f1.8, with those two I find I can do a LOT, 50mm is good too, I use it but prefer the 35mm. I would not get

another D300, try to get something that has one of the newer sensors like even a D7000 has the 16 mp which has

noticeably better low light capability than the D300. I actually use the D5100 bodies, but I dont shoot weddings any more,

I would want dual card slots and a little tougher body like my D200s. Last, definitely a way to remote one of the flashes off

camera however you choose and depending on the unit. Tripod and extra batteries and memory sticks. Enjoy!

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Thanks for the input so far....

Just for clarity, the reason the extra D300 rather than the D7000 is the size of my hands, in my moneyless hands if you will the D300 is the next best thing for now. I would love to have the D700 since it would use all the same motordrives and cords as the D300 but is about $1000 more... I forgot to mention I have a SB-900 and plan on getting 2-SB-800's for the fill flash. I am planning on a Tripod and have it picked out also, and even have a trusty Stroboframe in my kit also... I am planning on getting the Nikon 80-200, and the 85 1.8, and the 50 1.8, just have not made up my mind yet on the wide angle lens(es) yet... Thanks for the Lightroom input, I had been looking but that is now a gotta have.... And yes the updated porfolio is something that I am about to start working on, the website will be with Smugbug, and I even have Quick Books and an accountant picked out...

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The D7000 is too small a frame for my hands, hence the D700. The D700 is known for handling lower light at least over the D300 and will use the same cables and motordrive ect... I may just wait a bit and get it over getting a second D300...
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<blockquote>

<p>“I would love to have the D700 since it would use all the same motordrives and cords as the D300 but is about $1000 more... <strong><em>I may just wait a bit </em></strong><em>and get it over getting a second D300</em>...I am planning on getting <strong><em>the Nikon 80-200</em></strong>, and the <strong><em>85 1.8, and the 50 1.8…</em></strong>”</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It is not clear to me, what is your BUYING TIMELINE. However, to my thinking it does NOT make good sense:</p>

<ul>

<li>to do any Wedding without a second camera</li>

<li>to buy an 80-200/2.8 before buying second camera, if both the 50-135/2.8 and 28 to 105/2.8 are in good working order</li>

<li>to buy both a fast 50 and a fast 85, initially, if funds are tight</li>

<li>to buy EITHER a fast 50 or a fast 85, for a two camera APS-C, kit BEFORE buying a fast WIDE/NORMAL Prime Lens</li>

</ul>

<p>Also –<br>

Once one begins contemplating the D700, then one enters the realm of a DUAL FORMAT kit – thus rendering the 17 to 50/2.8 and the 50 to 135/2.8 and the UWA Tokina, virtually useless (on BOTH cameras) – so the whole lens cache needs re-assessment, based on the premise of, that Dual Format Kit.</p>

<p>WW</p>

 

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Hello William W,...I had not planned on making money again with Photography in general period, but over the years I have had a number of people to tell me it would be a mistake not to get back into it... It wasn't until two of my friends told me that they had made over $30,000 part time, and I was making $11.00 hour or less that brought me back to the fold...

So I began my background check and was told that I could get the same results or better from a 12mp camera, and with this information I chose the Nikon D300, and from there it has been a matter of money and what I could afford...

My plan is to have a D300 set of cameras and lens to start out with and then when I can afford it this would then be used by an assistant while I would use a D3s and D700 with lens ect...

I am also planning on getting a IPad Mini 32gig to use for downing loading directly from my camera, since it is nice to be able to look at my photo's on a 7-8 inch screen rather than my 3 inch camera screen..

I will also be using both on camera and off camera lighting and those wonderful reflectors that I had been playing with before I go out of the business... and in case you are wondering they were the gold and white ones...

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<p>I'd think the purchase of an ipad mini for this is a bit of an extravange when you currently do not have adequate equipment to reliably get the job done. Your priorities (at least IMO) at this point HAVE to be a backup camera (first), & backup/lowlight capable lenses (second), and enough memory (third). Making the assumption that you'll have time to be able to transfer files to a tablet, and then peruse your imagery is (I think) a mistake.</p>

<p>While primes aren't much (in most cases) of a tangible improvement in absolute IQ (vs. good zooms) in terms of a wedding shooter, their ability to capture imagery at higher shutter speeds (due to their speed), in low light situations can NOT be under emphasized. Without anything faster than f2.8, you are in danger of doing yourself (and your clients) a serious disservice.</p>

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Hi Marcus, the IPad Mini will be later addition, I was just trying to give a better out look as to what I was going to look into for equipment... The primes will be there also, as you stated they can save the day at times... The backup camera will be there depending on when I can get my portfolio build up enough to buy one.... The primes will more than likely come first, 24mm, 35mm, 50 and 85, and the SB-800's will fit in as needed whether buying them or renting depending on the need at the time... The funny thing for me is that when shooting film with an Nikon FE2 the 2 lenses that made me the most money were the 105 f2.5d and 180 f2.8. The gals really loved the effects of these 2 lens... The 180 was well worth the money I paid for it...
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<blockquote>

<p>"The backup camera will be there <strong><em>depending on</em></strong> when I can get my portfolio build up enough to buy one...."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I think that your buying timeline NEEDS to be more rigid that that.<br>

I don’t think you should do ANY wedding jobs, without a back up camera. </p>

<p>I agree with Marcus’s assessment -<br>

<em>“Your priorities at this point: </em><br>

<em>HAVE to be a backup camera (first) </em><br>

<em>backup/lowlight capable lenses (second) </em><br>

<em>and enough memory (third)’</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

WW</p>

 

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Joel,

 

Forgive me if the following seems simplistic. That's because it can be simple. You were a MF film guy. That's simple. With your film photography background you probably know more about the subject that the rest of us put together.

 

So my advice is a D700. Its the cheapest path to FX. Get two and they can be had for $1400 from the big three. Or get two D600's. They are going for $1600 on refurb, but they are a D7100 with an FX sensor. Not so nice to use. 13mp is plenty for any wedding portrait. You don't need any more resolution. Also I caution the aggressive use of portrait software. Use it only if your have to cover up some acne, right? Some lenses:

 

a 17-35 2.8

a 50 1.4

a 70-210 2.8

an SB910 flash.

Maybe a tripod or a monopod.

 

You got it covered. You can use the 70-210 for portraits or big groups without the distortion of a wide angle. You use the 17-35 for indoor where you can't get back enough. The 50 for low light.

 

You could get a 24-70 2.8 but you lose on the wide end and at $2000, its a difficult decision.

 

Use your knowledge. A digital camera is exactly the same as film. These cameras are just boxes holding a sensor. Shoot raw, create an adjustment profile in Lightroom or Aperture and process away. Its not that hard. The more you process in -camera the less the post production work there is. Once you get your settings right you will be sweet and pumping out jpegs. While all the rest are spending days and days in post in front of a monitor, you will be at the beach.

 

I also did events in the film days. I made do with a F4S-M23 with a 28-70 AFD. Never missed a beat for 14 years and I still use it. The advice you get here will be subjective and there are too many self appointed experts here. Weddings are just about the most difficult form of photography and if you are successful then hats off to you. For me...its a nightmare, dealing with weather. ugly brides, aggressive mothers, long hours and the demands for images that look like they were taken by the best pro in the world.

 

Best of luck. You actually know what to do, so go do it.

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Thanks for the confidence, but I am playing but not with a full deck yet. For instance I was shooting my brother holding a baby, D300 w/Tamron 28-105 @ f2.8 and 1600. I had great composition and the camera was doing great, the only thing I forgot to notice was the shutter speed (was not wearing glasses at time) and almost all of the shots show the baby moving with lots of blur... I made a very basic mistake that a couple yrs ago I would not have made, but I still had fun shooting. Next time I will be more aware of the cameras settings and not make the same mistake...
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<p>Well these things happen. Life is always about learning but don't beat yourself up too much.<br>

If you still have some of your MF gear, put the odd film through and enjoy low tech creativity once in a while.<br>

I had a D300 and it was and still is a great camera. Like the D90 it produced great images with factory defaults settings.</p>

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<p>Very interesting conversation. One thing I would put first in your shopping list though, is a monitor calibrator, like spyder. Whatever happens, make sure your clients will be getting exactly what you see on your screen. It's not expensive but I consider it absolutely essential. My two cents.</p>
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