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Manual focusing techniques on adapted lenses


michael_lim7

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<p>I wear specs and am using adapter Canon FD 50mm F1.4 SSC on my Oly EP2.<br>

I bought an optical viewfinder that comes with a diopter. I found that it helps me to get sharper shots compared to using the LCD.<br>

When I am taking pictures with the viewfinder, I do not wear my specs. To start off, I attach the stock Olymus lens ahd use the autofocus to focus on a subject. Next I attach the viewfinder and adjust the diopter until I can see the subject clearly throught the viewfinder.<br>

With this calibration, does it mean that when I attach my adapted lens, the calibrated diopter will always help me to achieve good focusing accuracy when doing manual focus via the viewfinder?<br>

Many thanks!</p>

<p>Michael</p>

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<p>Your calibration will get you the clearest view of the focusing screen; it is then up to you to focus properly. I haven't a clue what kind of focusing aid you have in your viewfinder; I have mostly matte screens in the AF cameras I use with manual focus lenses, and they're not easy to focus on, but it can be done.</p>
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Yes, I think you'll benefit from a correct diopter regardless of the lens being used, and it shouldn't need recalibration

when they're changed. That being said, human eyes can vary a little bit from day to day so don't be surprised if a

minor tweak is called for here and there.

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<p>I'm not familiar at all with the Oly EP2. But the one thing you might want to watch out for is to make sure your focusing screen isn't lying to you vis-a-vis what you're seeing. What I mean by this is modern AF camera focusing screens have been optimized for slower lenses so they're bright enough when looking through them. Canon's "Rebel" line is notorious for this with their porro-prism viewfinders. When I adapt a fast optic to my EOS XS (aka 1000D), like my Nikkor 50mm f/1.4, for example, any aperture setting faster than about f/3.5 renders a situation where correct focus is a crap shoot -- unless I use Live View.</p>

<p>So, try your 50/1.4 at f/1.4, focus on a subject such that it appears critically sharp in your viewfinder, take several shots, refocusing each time, then inspect them afterward. If any of them appear off, then your camera's focusing screen might be the culprit.</p>

<p>This is a known problem with the EOS cameras and the only real solution that I'm aware of is to replace the focusing screen with one from a 5D, which apparently doesn't have this same issue. The downside to doing this is you will have a dimmer viewfinder. If you experience this with your Oly, I don't know what to recommend, having no experience with your camera. Sorry.</p>

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<p>Thanks very much for the tip Michael, I have been trying it out and am glad that so far, shooting wide at F1.4 gives me pleasant results. The only problem I had while taking pics of my dog is the shallow depth of field (eyes and nose) and their fast movements.<br>

Hope to post some pics for you to comment and learn along the way.<br>

Been a great forum and learning lots of things along the way!</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Michael</p>

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<p>This is a major reason why I chose the Fuji X-E1. It has a 3x and 10x OVF magnifier that makes focusing with manual lenses a breeze. The most significant problem with it is that it's limited to the center of the viewfinder. It would be better to be able to move it since frequently the focus point is not in the center. Does the Oly have a similar magnification feature?</p>
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<p>Tony, the Oly has a similar magnification feature in the electronic viewfinder, allowing a 7x and a 10x magnification. Om my E-P2 it is possible to move the focus point. This is very useful indeed.<br>

I enjoy using the E-P2 with lots of FD and FL lenses I collected. However I was considering a Fuji X-E1 because of the better crop factor. But your remark lowers my enthousiasm a bit, maybe I'll opt for a Sony NEX.</p>

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<p>The Sony NEX also has a "peak focusing" system that I've read about, but not yet experienced. From what I've read about it, though, it makes focusing with mf lenses a snap. Dunno if it allows for off-center focusing, though. I can see how that would be really handy. I have this capability with my DSLR's Live View system and I find that I use it a lot.</p>
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