Boom arms

[jcmexico2000]

<p> Hi, can anybody recommend a boom arm for my elinchrom 500brxi (heavy) monolight, it seem that there are a lot of boom arms out there but they are hard to use and do not handle a heavy monolight. Let alone a monolight plus a softbox., Scott Kelby dos not mention what brand of stands or boom arms he uses in his book Light it, shoot it,retouch it. that is the book that I have been reading lately., in the front cover of this book you can see some really nice light stands and boom arms but he does not mention what brand they are . Thanks</p>

[devon_mccarroll]

I use the Avenger baby boom for my White Lightning and softbox. Max ratings with the arm extended are what you want to pay attention

to, although for proper balance and safety I never fully extend it. Max weight fully extended on the Avenger is 11 lbs. Height of stand

extends to about 13 feet. It's about $200, but you want a good boom stand to hold your expensive gear.

I'm seeing on specs that your Elinchrom weighs about 4.5 lbs., and softboxes aren't that heavy, so you should be fine with a stand like

the Avenger.

Booms are hard to set up by yourself, because you have to put a counterweight at one end and then try to hold the stand upright while

mounting your light and softbox, so an extra set of hands certainly helps.

[Matt Laur]

<p>I also like the Avenger stands. Which boom and stand combo to get depends on how much room you have for its footprint, how much reach you need, how high you're going to go, and how portable the thing has to be. <br /><br />When it comes to rigging things up, Devon is right that you have be careful. But if you run the stand section down, and then swing the boom arm close to vertical, you can mount the light and modifier without any real tipping risk, and then swing it down when you're ready.<br /><br />Remember to keep the arm oriented out over one of the stand's legs, and consider sandbagging things for extra stability when you're working over someone's head. Safety cables are a good idea, too, when working overhead.<br /><br />I like overkill, so I really like the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Avenger-A4050CS-Steel-Photographic-Silver/dp/B002B559US/"><strong>Avenger A4050CS</strong></a>. But I don't mind the size and weight of it, as a trade-off for all of that stability.</p>

[sheldonnalos]

<p>I have the BXRi 500 and various Elinchrom softboxes. I'd recommend either a sturdy stand plus the Avenger D600 Mini Boom, or a combo boom stand like the Avenger A4039CS (little brother to the A4050CS). Both are plenty sturdy for your needs. Don't be fooled by the title "Mini" in the Avenger boom, it's quite rugged and large. Both of these would be very similar to but slightly sturdier than the Avenger Baby Boom referenced above. I believe he's referring to the Avenger A4041 Baby Boom stand, which is a lighter aluminum variation on the 4039CS stand. The A4050CS is even larger, it's truly a monster. </p>

<p>Whichever one you choose, a must have accessory is the Avenger E700 Baby Drop Down Pin. It allows you to have the light hang under the boom and maintain its angle without twisting on the end of the boom. Highly recommended.</p>

[brooks short]

<p>If you're working in the studio I recommend this Super Boom and stand by Manfrotto. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546565-REG/Manfrotto_025BS_025BS_Super_Boom_with.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546565-REG/Manfrotto_025BS_025BS_Super_Boom_with.html</a></p>

<p>This boom has crank handles on the end to adjust the rotation and tilt of the light/soft box as it is raised or lowered. There are some shoots where I take it on location when I need to support a medium or large soft box or fresnel above the set.</p>

[wally_kilburg1]

<p>I have heard really good things about the Manfrotto Super Boom but lack any experience with it. I do however own and use a few of the D600 boom arms from Avenger. Great, great boom. I think at a good price too. I use one on a C-stand indoors and out, and one on a older Avenger rolling stand thats huge and heavy but works well in the studio. Grip arms are the other stand by. Both 40" and 20". </p>

[jcmexico2000]

<p> Thanks everyone, I just ordered the Avenger D600 mini boom.</p>

[studio460]

<p>I have Matthews steel "Hollywood Baby Jr." rolling stands (more commonly referred to as rolling "Beefy Baby" stands, to indicate the steel, rather than the aluminum version of this baby stand), and Matthews' steel mini boom arms, which I use in my living-room studio. These all-steel stands are pretty heavy-duty (and weigh a ton). However, a location stand (one without wheels) would be more appropriate for the field since they have an adjustable "Rocky Mountain" third leg.</p>

<p>http://www.msegrip.com/product/stands-1/baby/hollywood-baby-jr-stands.html<br /> http://www.msegrip.com/product/booms-arms/matthew-booms-and-arms.html</p>

<p>A "Matthews Jr. Combo" aluminum stand is beefier than a baby stand (and has a Jr. receiver), lighter than a steel stand, and also has the Rocky Mountain leg. I just noticed that it now comes in black!</p>

<p>http://www.msegrip.com/product/stands-1/combo/combo-stand-black-aluminum-1589.html</p>

<p>However, to support the weight of a steel boom arm, heavy monolight + large softbox, you may want the steel version of the "Hollywood Combo" stand instead (also known as a "Jr. Combo"). A variety of heights are offered (risers), plus, all have the Rocky Mountain leg:</p>

<p>http://www.msegrip.com/product/stands-1/combo/matthews-hollywood-combo.html</p>

[bob_bill]

<p>The stands Kelby uses with the black legs parallel to the floor, the wonderful rollers are avengers. The smaller version I believe is the a05017 $179 and the larger is the 5034 about $240. If you are booming for clamshell, you dont need the heavy avenger boom arm, the d600. Its great for booming 6-7 feet from the stand for say a hair light. I think if you look at those books, he is using a standard d520 40" boom arm that is solid steel. It is attached to the stand with a d200. Kelby tends to attach his light to the end of the steel shaft. I prefer to use a pin in the grip and I can have a more vertical attachment of the light. In his configuration, the grip acts as a bit of a counterweight but the head is on a smooth shaft often angled down. A 40 inch is more than long enough for a clam shell setup and a 20 inch works fine if you want to add a bit of distance from the stand so you can angle something down more like a beauty dish or drop the head below the height of the stand, eg, lower light in clam shell. I have always hated my reflector holder but the tinker toy construction of the 40 inch centered and a piece of foam core clamped in but resting on the rest of the bar horizontally and the foam core angled makes an nice low reflector holder for the lower clamshell if you want to use a reflector instead of a light. I clip my battery pack to the stand that is most boomed and also add sandbags on the legs. These stands roll like budda. The larger is great with the heavy boom extended but sand bag heavily. Once you start using these rollers you will find yourself lugging them on location because they are so nice. Maybe not necessary for pack users, but monoblock users will love them. Easy for inexperienced assistants to maneuver. Being spared one light and soft box being damaged more than pays for them.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Brooks said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If you're working in the studio I recommend this Super Boom and stand by Manfrotto.<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546565-REG/Manfrotto_025BS_025BS_Super_Boom_with.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546565-REG/Manfrotto_025BS_025BS_Super_Boom_with.html</a></p>

</blockquote>

<p>That Manfrotto Super Boom looks pretty slick. I just checked, and it does have an adjustable third leg, similar to Matthews' Rocky Mountain leg. I don't have a large boom rig yet, just the Matthews mini-booms I use in my home studio. But, I do also own a Matthews Baby Boom, black, so all I really need to buy is a steel Combo stand for it. Here's what I'll likely end up with for my location boom set-up:</p>

<p>Matthews Hollywood Combo steel stand, double-riser w/Rocky Mountain leg: max. height: 11.3'; weight: 28 lbs.; capacity: 90 lbs.<br /> Matthews Baby Boom, steel: max. extension: 6.6' weight: 11 lbs.</p>

<p>Another way to go is to buy a Manfrotto Super Boom only, and mount it on a Matthews steel Combo stand. Although, I do prefer the slightly longer boom extension of the Manfrotto (8' vs. 6.6'), and its crank-operated feature is pretty neat, the Matthews set-up is all-steel, while the Manfrotto stand and boom is all-aluminum. Certainly, aluminum stands are lighter to carry, but they do tend to flex more.</p>

[Uhooru]

<p>I would add that whenever you use a a stand and especially a boom, always use sand bags. Its really crucial to counterbalancing the light and modifiers and should be part of any studio safety routine. Nothing like a falling stand smacking the subject and crew and the sound of breaking lights etc. I don't know of any standard stand and boom setup that will handle heavy lights without use of sandbags. Not that I know every product out there, I've just never seen one either in the school I went to or in any of the rental departments I've used.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Regarding counter-balance, the Matthews Jr. Boom (which extends to a massive 10') actually has a 25-lb. counter-balance weight already integrated into the rear-end of the boom, making the entire boom weigh a hefty 41 lbs. total. This may be the preferred choice for a boom for that feature alone (note that this boom requires a stand with a Jr. receiver).</p>

<p><br /> Matthews 10' Jr. Boom w/25 lb. counter-weight: http://www.adorama.com/MT427803.html</p>

<p><br /> On the subject of sandbags, the sand-filled kind are pretty affordable, and I have a few of those--gotta buy more, since they're only $20 each, already filled, from my local photo store (Samy's Camera, Los Angeles). My favorite are shotbags, which are much more expensive, but heavier, and far more compact. I buy these from Filmtools (cheaper than Samy's).</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>I buy empty zip-close bags, and then order soft shot bags (usually the 5-pound kind) from dive shops - they're sold as buoyancy weights for scuba divers. By using 5-pound mesh bags of shot, I can adjust the total weight of the sandbags so that I have some more modest ones to counterbalance lights, and heavier ones to stabilize stands. </p>

[bob_bill]

<p>Matt, I do something similar. I have sturdy ziplocks full of sand and hang a brightly colored cloth grocery bag from the end of the boom and add a bag at at time til it balances pretty well at horizontal. Like Matt, I use sandbags purchased empty then fill once they are home. Remember, if you start with a heavy boom, hang a monoblock and large modifier, then add counter weight, you may have to lift and lower the boom by raising the stand shaft. That can be 35- 40 awkward pounds. </p>

[Uhooru]

<p>I've just gotten them from Samy's too, I get them the few times I have to rent stands. Don't know the brand but they are a "butterfly" style and seem to work fine.</p>

[brooks short]

<p>I use the Manfrotto Super Boom on location too as seen below.</p>

[brooks short]

<p>Here's the Manfrotto super boom supporting a Speedotron 102 flash head and Chimera 3'x4' soft box, mounted on its heavy duty crank stand, in action on a recent location shoot.</p><div></div>

[studio460]

<p>Nice set-up, Brooks! Who makes the 6' 5" diffusion panel shown?</p>

[brooks short]

<p>Ralph,</p>

<p>That's a Skylite frame and diffusion material made by Lastolite.</p>