Angkor Wat - Cambodia

[paul_kerton]

<p>Quick question - I was in Siem Reap November 2012 shooting within the temple complex but Angkor Wat itself had a very large blue tarpaulen over it.<br>

Although I am sympathetic towards the renovation works being conducted it did not make for a good travel shot. (Iconic shot from reflecting pool not possible) Managed to get some nice shots from the opposite side.<br>

Anyone been since and do you know if it has been removed? <br>

Will visit again next week.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Paul</p>

 

[kum03]

<p>I understand your view in this, that giant tarp does not help getting the iconic shot, and it has been there for quite a few years now if not more and I've gone there every year for the last 12 years. Like you, I've moved around to get away from that thing, but I just put it as necessity as the temples there suffer visible and not so visible damages from human activities and time. I know some engineers and architects who work for the Apsara Authority, they confirmed pretty much what is common knowledge there that the major temples suffer from the water table drop by excess usage and rain water damage to walls/sculptures. So hang in there, I too await the day they remove the tarp :)</p><div></div>

[leslie_cheung]

<p>Kavin, how has Siem Reap (and Cambodia) changed since '08? I read and hear many roads have been paved and it has changed greatly since. I might be heading that way later this year... </p>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>I started going there when I moved to Cambodia in 1994. We used to be able to camp overnight at the temples. During the day there was often no one around at all except <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=278865145508814&set=a.223809361014393.56298.171846589544004&type=3&theater">the locals</a>. By the time I left Cambodia in 2000, the package tours had started.<br /> Now, with well over 2 million people a year tramping over over them, the temples are basically being destroyed. They are trying to protect them, but it's a losing proposition. Here's a shot I took a few years ago with my Speed Graphic. It's even worse now.<br /> I went back in 2009, but it was awful with the line ups and traffic jams. It's over IMO.</p>

<p><a title="tourist hordes @ angkor by ian_taylor_photography, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm1.staticflickr.com/44/141161539_e468883bf0.jpg" alt="tourist hordes @ angkor" width="397" height="500" /></a></p>

[kum03]

<p>@Leslie: It's night and day since 08, most of the major highways are paved now, all the way to Thai border. You can make it to Preah Vihear on the Thai border from Siem Reap in a few hours now, and that's another site on my must be there list. As for accommodation, you can sure find one to your liking since SR is probably the fastest growing city 2nd to Phnom Penh. There are many temples that are still being seen by few tourists since most would only go to the ones mention in the old French tour guide since colonial time. So if you are adventurous and have time, you'll find your treasure :)</p><div></div>

[leslie_cheung]

<p>Hmm...how sad! I guess I'd even miss getting outrageously ripped-off in Poipet:)</p>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>I would still recommend Banteay Chhmar. That's a great one you can still have to yourself. Bit hard to get to, but worth it.</p>

[paul_kerton]

<p>Thanks for the responses and particularly Kavin for his detailed explanation to reason why!<br>

I will visit tomorrow and shoot what I see (and accept it for how it is!) perhaps a B/W shot wide angle may disguise the tarp slightly? can only but try :) <br>

A few wonderful shots uploaded also - I have yet to see such a clear sky over SR.<br>

Thanks very much. </p>

[paul_kerton]

<p>Had a very nice day shooting Temples and portraits at SR.<br>

Arrived at the reflecting pool at 05:07 hrs which gave me the pick of the spots. First tripod to set up.<br>

At approx 05:20 there were about a 100+ people in situ.<br>

By the time the sun appeared (06:20 there must have been 400+ people around the pool!<br>

Get there early if you want a good spot.<br>

I can confirm that the tarp is still in place :) </p>

<p>Paul</p>

[leslie_cheung]

<p>Is it still illegal to rent motobike or mopeds to tourist? Can you ask your motel front desk, if you are still there, Paul? Is this still the policy? Thanks!</p>

[paul_kerton]

<p>Sorry for delay,<br>

Yes, it is still NOT possible to rent a moped in Siem Reap. The only motor bikes (for tourists) are ones which have been hired from out of town (Battambang or PP)<br>

If you do bring a bike into the area, apparently theft is common so a good lock is advised.<br>

The Tuk Tuk drivers have a strangle hold on the transport in the town.<br>

Push bikes are available but hot work as you probably know!<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>Paul</p>

 

[leslie_cheung]

<p>Thanks, so it hasn't changed. Best to you, Paul!</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>I wonder how many people travel huge distances at considerable expense to see Angkor Wat, to find an overpopulated site defaced by a blue tarp? Thanks for starting the thread - it'll certainly take this off my list. I do wonder where the fair balance lies between screwing up a place for visitors now in order to protect it for future generations? Is it right or fair to prioritise the future all the time? </p>

[leslie_cheung]

<p>David, there are many different and distinct wat sites in and around SR. And I'm sure they are not restoring all the sites at the same time... </p>

[bonsignore_ezio]

<p>David, this is photonet and thus your comment is understandable. But, Angkor War is an extremely interesting place to see and explore under many points of view, even though restoration/conservation works at the time of your visit might interfere with some shots. Anyone with even a passing interest in history, architecture, antropology, religion and quite a few other branches of knowledge would easily come to comment, "so what?!?"<br>

Plus, even under strictly a photographic approach there are countless possibilities for excellent work while avoiding the tarpaulin. To quote but an example, the trees growing above, inside and around the temples provide a fascinating subject.<br>

I do agree, however, that the masses of turists visiting the main site are a major problem (far less so for the many surrounding sites) not only in order to take pictures, but even simply to go around. But, to quote a sign I once saw hanging on a German Autobahn, "you are not IN a traffic jam. You ARE the traffic jam". </p>

<p> </p>

[paul_kerton]

<p>Sorry if I have put some people off traveling to Angkor Wat but as mentioned above by Bonsignore, despite the mass of people, it is an absolutely wonderful place to visit. There are endless opportunities for photography and once you are a little 'templed out' turn the camera on the tourists for some lovely candid shots.<br>

If you have wanted to visit, do not hesitate, go there.<br>

The restoration work is ongoing but only on certain temples. Shooting craftsmen at work adds to the story.<br>

There are local people in and around the temples also for some wonderful opportunities at portrait shots.<br>

Coming to my end of my second month in Cambodia (2 days left in Phnom Penh) and two weeks in Thailand prior to flying to UK.<br>

S/E Asia is full of incredible places and people.</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Paul</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>Paul. You shouldn't be sorry. The world's a big place and for most of us we have to choose a fraction of the alternatives. Rather than visit somewhere emasculated by renovation activities, I'll make a trip elsewhere, thats all. I won't photograph less - I just won't photograph there- just as if someone had told me that the Taj Mahal was covered by scaffolding ( don't worry, it wasn't) I wouldn't have visited Agra on my India trip last year. I don't visit these places to be a tourist- I visit to photograph and if I can't realise the photographic potential of a place then I don't want to be there. There are lots of places I can choose instead, and I've seen enough overcrowded locations with lines of photographers, or where the location is visually impaired, to know that I don't respond well to them, and I'll be better off elsewhere. </p>

[MTC Photography]

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5238763-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="460" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5247609-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="1015" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5247614-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="1015" /></p>

[jason_fung]

<p>Thank you everyone for sharing. I'm actually planning trip there in the coming weeks and I'm hoping for an opportunity to get some response from the community.<br>

I'm planing to bring my Hassie with a 50 and 80mm and a Fuji X100 as a backup. I'll primarily be shooting with the 80 day to day; but plan to use the 50 for sunrises. If I run out of film, or need to use a flash, I plan to use the Fuji x100.<br>

I am a little put off the idea of the tarp (although that might be hidden by a silhouette shot.) But I might still do it. I might try a more street photographer mode, and try to use the flood of photographers as a composition element; or stick to the postcard and pray for great light, or utilize the entrance... I do have a few other ideas floating around in my head; but at this point I'm just thinking out loud. <br>

I've read some people run into problems with authorities, and being accused of being professional photographers, requiring permits. Others claimed that using 120 or larger film means that they are a professional photographer, and again require a permit. (1) Has anyone here run into these type of problems? (2) How does one establish that they are not a professional photographer without any commercial intentions? (3) if needed, how does one go about informing the APSARA about photopermits? I've tried asking them, but none of their emails work. <br>

Thanks<br>

<br />Jason<br />dikaiosune01.wordpress.com</p>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>Don't bother with a permit. They are only going to bug you if you are on a big commercial job with assistant, reflectors, lights etc. There are thousands of people shooting, they have no clue who is who. I was there a couple of years ago shooting large format and nobody bothered me. <br>

It's always better to beg forgiveness than ask permission, especially in Cambodia. </p>

[angkordave]

<p>My advice is to get a guide who knows the locations intimately. There is a risk that a solo Photographer working with a large format camera may be challenged; but it is unlikely. Having been running photo tours in Cambodia for 10 years I have never had any problems with guards while on tours; so be reassured that Angkor is a great place for photography. I will say that if you want to take a shot of Angkor Wat you might as well buy a postcard. There are far more exciting and unique places in Angkor area where you can take imaginative shots. Even in the crowded Angkor Wat Ta Prohm Bayon etc, timing and insider knowledge can make all the difference between a set of pics that other people can get and stunning shots of unusual areas that will amaze.<br>

<img src="http://peaceofasia.zenfolio.com/p809409527/h17a052e5#h17a052e5" alt="" /></p><div></div>

[andrew_gardiner]

<p>I understand your disappointment Paul, but the tarp interests me. Any chance of posting a picture of it?</p>

 

[jason_fung]

I've been looking to arrange a guide but I am having a little problem convincing my better half.

 

I also want to take a moment right now to thank everyone for their contribution to this thread. However, I wish to seek

everyone's help once again - this time I need to get slightly off topic. I'll be traveling 5 days across Cambodi; entering and

leaving from Phnom Penh, staying one night and will travel by day bus to Siem Reap (3 days)

 

Am I bringing too much equipment? I hope to rent a tuk tuk for the day and hopefully get a local guide.

Hasselblad 501cm + 50mm f/4 + 80mm f/2.8

(The 50mm will stay in the hotel unless it is for sunrise and sunset temple shots. (We will still visit Angkor during the day,

but the sunrise shots might be better reserved for some of these other wats.)

I'll be brining three backs and one Polaroid back. And enough film to go around. (About 30-40 rolls)

Fuji x100 + flash. Partially for redundancy, partially for small fuji flash I'm brining. I'm also bringing a LED light for

lighting for the Hasselblad. And a small tripod. (Gitzo gt2542T).

 

My concerns are,

Is this too much equipment? Will I need to lug it everywhere or can I safely use the hotel safe for extra equipment and

bring only the hasselblad and backs.

Will I expect to do a lot of hiking (ie. 2hrs or more)

Will I need to maximize my maneuverability when exploring Angkor?

 

And my largest concern is...

Will there be enough space in the canon to store my equipment securely? Or forget all that and shoot with a leica M3

with a 50 and 21 next to my fuji backup?

[angkordave]

<p>You do have a lot of gear but if you get a guide with the right kind of experience; he can help carry your kit and act as assistant,<br>

Thefts of cameras are not too common out here; so there is no need to be to worried about it. If you stay in a decent hotel; your gear should be safe; safety boxes are fine for documents, cash or small cameras only.<br>

The best and safest is the Giant Ibis buses. They are well driven, new with seat belts and wifi internet. The drive takes 6 hours.</p>

 

[angkordave]

<p>You might be interested in this article I wrote for the Phnom Penh Post a couple of months ago<br /> http://www.phnompenhpost.com/siem-reap-insider/conspiracy-against-photographers<br /> <br />This is not intended to put people of coming but just to warn photographers that a bit of creative thinking to avoid the tourist traps will give great rewards.<br>

You will also find links to some of my Temple Watch articles.</p>