Are FL apertures prone to failure?

[funkag]

<p>I've seen a bunch of ads on ebay lately for fl lenses (especially the 58mm 1.2) with apertures that are stuck open. Is the aperture mechanism in fl lenses more prone to failure than other lens makers? If so, why?</p>

[steve_mareno1]

<p>Perhaps they don't understand how the lens operates. These are preset lenses. You set them to the f stop you want, and it stays open until the shutter fires, then it closes.</p>

[steven_endo]

<p>FL lenses are not preset lenses. They have the same diaphragm control slider/pin as the FD. They just don't have the other various pins and sliders to allow open aperture metering capability. Stuck diaphragms are probably due to oil contamination on the blades.</p>

[jim_bielecki1]

<p>Also remember that you're talking about lenses that are between 40 - 50 years old. Lubricants can dry making the aperture mechanism sticky. As with any camera-related item of this age, look before you buy.</p>

[rick_janes]

Of the dozen or so FL lenses I own none exhibit any diaphragm problems, including oily blades. I do not have the FL

58/1.2, however.

 

The same isn't true of the preceding line of Super Canomatics (for Canonflex), about half of the ones I've tried have

oily and sluggish blades but a simple servicing sets them right. My Super Canomatic 58/1.2 needed a clean and lube to restore full function, but another S/C (35/2.5) is so bright and snappy you'd mistake it for new...it has never been serviced.

[John Seaman]

<p>I bought an FL 58 mm f1.2 about a year ago. At first it worked perfectly, then the aperture started to stick intermittently, finally it failed altogether and its in for repair. I couldn't see any oil on the blades. I guess these are prone to aperture problems after nearly 50 years, the blades are quite large and I think there are 8 of them, it must have been a hard job to design.</p>

[davidng]

<p>I've seen it in the FL100/3.5, FL58/1.2 and FL35/2.5 (numerous examples) due to oily blades. I guess the complex aperture mechanism can also account for the number of stucked lenses, i.e. in the earlier FL lenses the manual/auto setting is done by turning the front ring of the lens (see FL50/1.8 I), while in most of the later designed FL lenses (last FL50/1.8 and FL50/1.4), the manual/auto setting ring has moved near the bayonet mount. Myself, I think there is as well a design flaw somewhere, because I also have a number of FD lenses (both BL and FDn) which are pristine, yet aperture stuck. My beautiful FDn 80-200/4L worked the day I bought it, the next day the aperture didn't move anymore... <br>

I have a number of Canonet QL17 G-III rangefinders, but not all working anymore. They are beautiful camera's as you can read from previous posts, but also very prone to mechanical failure. One of the reasons I found out was that the transmission of the shutter pressure was done by pushing down one rod with the other, with space left on either side of the receiving rod. I fixed that camera, but it only lasted for a short while. But I think of that as a "design flaw", while cost-cutting probably, prone to err in the long run. <br>

I guess most of the Canon FL and FD lenses work(ed) well. What you see now affordable in the market are the left-overs with issues, the nice and neat ones already have a nice home or are offered by (reputed) sellers. Be aware that all lenses of all brands have "issues", but it is nicer to talk about the strengths of the lenses you have...</p>

 

[rod_rhoads]

<p>I agree about age and the drying out or sticking issues but I think Canon FL AND FD prime normals are more prone to have issues than other lenses. I currently have two FD 50mm F1.4 lenses which refuse to stop down. Obviously both need cleaning. I also have a 100mm Macro FD with simiilar issues. None of the rest of my 20 lenses (all FD and 2 FL) have these issues.All have been stored in cases in a dark closet for years with no issues???</p>

[jim_bielecki1]

<p>Well, not to be argumentative, but I have more than a dozen of R, FL and FD normal lenses and they all work great. </p>

<p>This came up on another thread a few weeks back, it's very hard to draw any meaningful conclusions based on a small sample size. Maybe you're just unlucky that you're having problems with a few of your lenses or maybe I'm just lucky that all of mine work fine. </p>

<p>We do have to remember that we're dealing with stuff that may be between 40 - 50 years old. Problems will happen with old camera gear.</p>

[rick_janes]

All three Super Canomatics I've had serviced for sluggish or sticking diaphragms were cured by simple clean and

lube jobs, they required no spare parts or additional work. I theorize that the same treatment will correct this issue on

FL and FD lenses in the vast majority of cases, and would like to hear if anyone has seen an exception to this.

 

These are older mechanical devices of many quickly moving parts and fine tolerances dependent on proper lubrication and

cleanliness, so is it fair to call the inevitable age-related breakdown of lubrication a true design flaw, especially with it still being uncommon?

 

Perhaps it is, but I think it is much more a case of unreasonable expectations.

[mwmcbroom]

<p>I suspect, as other folks have mentioned here, that the stuck aperture is due to oil on the blades. That's been my experience 100% of the time when I've encountered a lens with a stuck open aperture. I have a rather large selection of FD lenses and a couple of FLs -- the 55mm f/1.2 and 35mm f/2.5. I used to own an FL 19mm f/3.5 as well. Never had a bit of problems with any of these FLs either. In fact, of all the lenses in my Canon-mount inventory, I have two that are not functioning because of stuck aperture blades, and they are both Vivitar Series 1 zooms -- an old 24-48mm f/3.8 and a newer 28-105mm f/2.8-3.8. Aggravating, but at least my Canons are all okay.</p>

[cadillacmike]

<p>It's not oil folks, it's focusing helicoid grease that gets hot, melts a bit and migrates onto the aperture mechanism. Then it cools, and gets more solid and you have sticky or stuck blades.</p>

<p>Rs are the worst, that's for sure, and they are not helped by that control ring so far up to the front of the barrel. Early FLs with the twin control rings are not much better. Later FLs, with the A-M switch at the rear, and all FDs have been much better in this regard. Out of the over 80 lenses (mostly FD, but 10 Rs and 20 FLs) I have / had, I've encountered one or two FD lenses with grease on the blades, and few FLs, and and four Rs (out of 10!), but all worked fine once cleaned up and re-lubed. As other have noted, many FL and R lenses look and perform as new. Latest problem is an R 58mm F1.2 that's well stuck, you can see the semi-dried up grease on the blades. </p>

<p>I think very high heat is the worst thing for any lens; it melts the helicoid grease which then gets into places where it should not be.</p>

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