Newbie Events photographer

[gerry_cruz]

<p>Hi Guys,</p>

<p>i would like to know if my current gear will be good for events<br>

just want to venture on this<br>

Canon 1dmk2n<br>

Canon 40d<br>

70-200mm 2.8 L<br>

17-40mm F4 L<br>

85mm 1.8<br>

2 Flashes</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Comments and suggestions are highly welcome </p>

[markonestudios]

<p>What kind of events are you looking to shoot?</p>

[ianivey]

<p>If by "events," you mean weddings and/or corporate events, then you're going to miss having a faster lens in the wide range. I can't remember whether the 1D mk2n is a crop-frame sensor, but I think it is, and the 40D certainly is, so either a 17-55 f/2.8 or just having a 24 f/1.4 would be a good addition. The other stuff is probably fine for starting out.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>I’ll assume “weddings and social events” – a general question.</p>

<p>EOS 1D MkII N is APS-H (x1.3).</p>

<p>You're vulnerable wide and fast, I concur. I wouldn’t go for a 17 to 55/2.8 or similar, because it will only be ‘useful’ on the 40D AND you’re only gaining 1 Stop of Lens Speed over the 17 to 40/4 you already own.<br>

An EF 24/1.4 (or similar third party) would make a very useful pair of primes, with the 85/1.8.<br>

If you went for a zoom, then realistically it has to be a 24 to 70/2.8 variant.<br>

Another sticky point is the main working rig, should you need to go sans flash – realistically both the 40D and the 1D MkII N are good to ISO1600 – sure you can squeeze ISO3200 if necessary . . . and I really don’t like that with an F/4 zoom as the main lens.<br>

For an inexpensive safety net, a 50/1.8MkII would add value – for example inside the Church, that and the 24/1.4 would be a very good pair (one on each camera) to cover everything sans flash, if necessary.<br>

I’d like a third Flash and a third body.<br>

I adore Dual Format Kits for Weddings and Events - but APS-C and APS-H Dual Format are the least useful of the three possible combinations, in my view.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p> </p>

<p> </p>

[rob_caswell1]

<p>I concur with picking up the 50mm f/1.8 and if the sticker shock on the 24mm f/1.4 is too much to justify, then a 35mm f/2 might be a good alternative. I owned the 17-40 and while it was a good lens, not having a minimum f/2.8 sometimes felt like a handicap.</p>

[gerry_cruz]

<p>guys thanks so much for the suggestions i will take note of it thanks</p>

[gerry_cruz]

<p>Guys need your input<br>

im on a budget<br>

so my choices are<br>

Canon 28mm 1.8 USM<br>

Sigma 24mm 1.8<br>

any thoughts?</p>

[William Michael]

<p>I haven't used the Sigma and I have used the Canon: but on the theory of it, the extra 4mm would be handy considering your cameras' sensor sizes. <br />The Sigma has some close-up / macro function also, (I think;? ? ?) that might be handy.</p>

<p>You also might wish to confirm exactly what "Events"</p>

<p>WW</p>

[Marcus Ian]

<p>I wonder... do the Tamron and Sigma 17-50/2.8s cover the APS-H size sensor? I mean, obviously they won't (cover) FF, but if a Tamron 17-50/2.8 covers the APS-H completely (or nearly so) at most FLs, it may be an excellent alternative... and cheap! </p>

<p>OTOH, simply adding a EF 28/1.8 USM + a EF 50/1.8 will cover much of the range, with speed and cost effectively. OTOH The sigma 24/1.8 (EX DG) just all around sucks though (IMLPE).</p>

[gerry_cruz]

<p>WW i will cover DNDs wedding and some Bday parties </p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>I wonder... </p>

</blockquote>

<p>It will vignette and ‘just’ clip the corners.<br>

But yes 'useable' and more useable than when used on my 5D.<br>

I know that the Tamron 17 to 50/2.8 is 'useable' on my 5D for an emergency - but it is "emergency use only".<br>

On APS-H it would look close to this facsimile (the Black outline) -</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16578993-lg.jpg" alt="" width="696" height="464" /><br>

<br>

But the Tamron 28 to 75/2.8 would be a better fit.<br>

I didn't spell that out all too clearly. I meant the phrase <em>"If you went for a zoom, then realistically it has to be a 24 to 70/2.8 variant”</em> to include the Tamron 28 to 75/2.8.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>"i will cover DNDs wedding and some Bday parties"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks for the added information.<br>

<strong>Detailed information will usually reap much more detailed advice and better quality comment.</strong></p>

<p>As you mention shortage of funds, you should consider how often you will be sans flash – and in this regard consider how many Weddings do you have booked now? When you book any weddings - can you use Flash all the time?<br>

I expect that at ALL other functions you could use Flash, without limitation?</p>

<p>It is not a good idea to focus on buying a fast wide lens INITIALLY – if it will be <em><strong>of little initial use.</strong> </em></p>

<p><a href="00ayZd">Have a read of this recent conversation</a> – I’ll offer the same advice to you: I suggest you clearly plan the WHOLE KIT you need and with reasons - and then buy according to priority and need and not just add bits of gear willy-nilly as you go.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>DND = "Dinner and Dance (party)" I assume . . . ?</p>

 

[michaelmowery]

<p>I agree that you can wait on the fast lenses until after you get a more workhorse lens like 24 to 70 or 24 to 105 range. your 17-40 is a bit too wide for a working lens you will have distortion problems. later you can get a 50 or 35 1.4 or what ever you want. Unless you are always outside or in very light beautiful light the fast lenses wont be used that much. You got to get the shot and flash is the only way for events. If you want to do portraits or fashion or things like that then thats different. Take it from me an old pro working in NYC.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>For clarity: I was NOT suggesting that a 24 to 70 or 24 to 105 is a 'must have' or a 'priority purchase' for the kit containing a 40D and a 1DMkII N and for the tasks, as described.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[savagesax]

I'd have to go with the 28-75, or some sort of zoom in this range. The big thing is to keep the jobs simple. I hardly ever mess with changing prime lenses and at events things can happen wicked fast. Because of this I am using a 1ds Mk 3 with a 24-105. It has an IS with very high quality glass.

 

At events I normally light up the room with White Lightning strobes. 2 should do wonders and keep the room live looking with no dark backgrounds. People in the backgrounds are often more interesting then the main subject.

[gerry_cruz]

<p>another ff question:<br>

is it ok if <br>

40d and 17-40<br>

1dmk2n and 28mm 1.8<br>

so that i will not change lens, is this the best combo for it, coz im afraid that 17-40 will have some distortion on 1d</p>

[William Michael]

<p>I expect that most Photographers would change lenses from that combination during their time at most Functions or Weddings.<br>

You might, for example, need the wide end of the 17 to 40 on the 1DMk2N.<br>

Or you might need a fast 'normal lens' so the 28/1.8 would be good on the 40D for that requirement</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p> </p>

[gerry_cruz]

<p>Thanks William :)</p>

[gerry_cruz]

<p>William<br>

how about <br>

1dmk2n 70-200mm<br>

40d 17-40<br>

both have TTL flashes and one remote strobe at the back</p>

[William Michael]

<p>Gerry - for most Social Events, most photographers will change lenses during the event.</p>

<p>Of course that combination, or another combination might be what you start with - and it might work for the majority of the day for any particular job.</p>

<p><strong>Wedding and Social Events Photography is NOT a "set and forget" formula.</strong></p>

<p>If you are asking me what I would use 'most often' and 'most of the time' for a Wedding of Social Event, choosing only from the lenses you have - then I would use te 17 to 40 on the 1DMkII, because, firstly that FL Coverage would suit me the best and secondly, I would prefer to use the 1DMkIIN rather than a 40D as my main working camera.</p>

<p>BUT there will be others who would choose the 17 to 40 on the 40D and they will have equally good reasons for so doing and could make as good or better images than I.</p>

<p>WW</p>

 

[savagesax]

When speaches are being made I often go to the 70-200, or if the place is huge, I'd slap on a 400 on a second camera, with a heavy duty tripod.

 

With speaches going on you surely don't want to be near the speakers with a prime 28, however this is a good lens for group shots. It's also why I really enjoy the 24-105. You don't have to move at all, the zoom does the work for you.

 

The quality of a prime 28 is excellent. The quality of the 24-105 is also excellent. However in the case of events I still like any type of a quality zoom.

 

The key to events in my opinion is your lighting. The placements of lights, so you can see everyone and there won't be dark areas in which you can't see the people.

 

You don't need the very best cameras and lenses. If your lights are set up correctly simply set your camera to ISO 400 the shutter speed at 60th of a second and your F-stop between F4 to F5.6. You won't ever have to worry. Not every picure will be perfect, but close enough to adjust the bad ones in Photoshp RAW.

[savagesax]

By the way, I'm not in disagreement with WW or any other posts. You can use whatever system you wish, I firmly feel your off camera light setup puts you in the pro area whereas anyone coming to an event will be using only their on camera flash. I think you need to put the lights to use so your photo's don't look like the other photographers with their on camera flash units.

 

If tables are real close together or Very crouded I will throw on my 16-35 lens,

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p> ". . . your off camera light setup puts you in the pro area whereas anyone coming to an event will be using only their on camera flash."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Sage. One very good method of making 'the difference'.<br>

<a href="../beginner-photography-questions-forum/00b4Te">On another thread</a>, great advice for a Photography Student, who also wanted to start a busienss was: 'to learn studio lighting'.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p> </p>