New DSLR

[JDMvW]

<p>When I got my 5Dmkii last March, I went ahead and bought 2 of the Canon brand.<br /> Later, following a <a href="00aMFF">discussion</a> here, and just to see (since I had good luck with the non-Canon 5D (classic) batteries), I got a third-party battery ( http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00acDp ).<br /> You have to read the fine print very carefully to get one that works fully with the camera, but the one I got seems to work just fine in every regard. It's smart enough to show the battery charge on the camera indicator and holds the charge just as well as the Canon-made ones.<br /> It's obviously too early to tell about long-term but my experience with the 5D batteries suggests that there is a little more likelihood of failure after a couple of years with the cheapest third-party batteries, but for the price difference you could buy two for every one and still come out ahead in cost.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>I'd stick with Canon batteries. My oldest dates from late 2008 and is still going strong. I've got three batteries that I rotate between two bodies. (Thank you Canon for using the same batteries in the 5D MkII, MkIII and 7D). If you use your camera regularly and don't shoot more than 1,000 pix in an outing, then you may not need an extra. I think of it as cheap insurance.</p>

<p>I used to shoot Raw plus JPEG, but went to Raw only after downloading the free viewer IrfanView. It saves space on the CF card and speeds up buffer clearing, etc.</p>

<p>If buying a new camera, I don't think that the extended warranty is worth it. Of course, if you have a failure after the regular warranty you'll regret not having it. With Canon, in general, you don't need it; however, any particular device can always fail on you. BTW, that's where the saleman makes his spiff.</p>

<p>I'd suggest an extra card given the remote chance that one could fail. If you get a card reader, then make sure it's USB 3.0 or Firewire 800 or Thunderbolt. USB 2.0 is worthless and no better that the cable that comes with the camera. I've got a reader built into my desktop.</p>

[philip_wilson]

Moving from film the 5DII is probably a good choice. If you use you 1V in a normal configuration (I.e. not HS or similar) it

is about the same size (actually slightly larger!). The main control differences are the mode wheel, lach of multi- spot

metering and a viewfinder blind). I still occasionally use my pair of 1vs (one is set up normally, the other as a HS). While

the 5DII frame rate and AF are inferior to the 1V the difference is not that great for most users. I find the AF needs to be

used on the center setting (I use center plus AF expansion for action /sports) and you should not use AI Focus. In terms

of cards I still use UDMA 8 and 16 cards with mine. Even in RAW this gives a lot of shots and allows you the ability to

survive a card going bad. I use Lexar and Sandisk as they tend to be the best. If you want a sports shooter then you

need to go 7D or 1D. I have a 7D and old 1 DIIN that I use for sports and they do a better job than the 5DII but for most

shooting I prefer the 5. I stick with Canon batteries and have 5 between my 5DII and 7D. They are generally very reliable

but a spare battery and card are always something I carry. After 1-2 years battery performance starts to deteriorate but

even the batteries I bought with the 5 when it came out still perform well.

You will need some software and a fast computer with a good monitor. While you can get away with the Canon software

as a minimum I suggest Photoshop elements. The main things you will have to learn are white balance, the camera

performance at different ISOs and sharpening. Enjoy whatever you buy

[dcstep]

<p>BTW, the 5D MkIII's high-ISO noise performance is mainly better in handling in-camera JPEGs, not Raw. For Raw files, there's no improvement up to ISO 1600 and it is less than a full stop at ISO 6400. Any former film shooter will want to shoot in Raw.</p>

[steve_anderle1]

<p>Working on flash cards this morning. 400x, 600x, or 1000x? 16 or 32 GB?</p>

<p>I shoot mostly nature and landscape, with some people shots. I imagine I will try the video with my grandson playing.</p>

<p>Thanks again for all of you insight!</p>

[steve_anderle1]

<p>Thoughts on Giotto's Professional Screen Protectors?</p>

[Marcus Ian]

<blockquote>

<p>Marcus, with so many batteries purchased, do you stick with Canon or have you found a better choice elsewhere?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It depends on your budget, and how many you want to purchase. If you simply want an extra to keep just in case, I'd probably recommend purchasing a single genuine extra LP-E6 - just for piece of mind - it is my understanding that Canon demands it's battery manufacturer test the cells prior to shipping (whereas 'other' manufacturers may or may not). </p>

<p>OTOH, when I upgraded my 5Ds to 5D2s, I bought 10 3rd party, MC equipped LP-E6s (at the time it ~$70/batt for OEM LPE6s vs. ~$15/batt for 3rd party). To date I have<em> noticed</em> ZERO difference in performance between the Genuine OEM batts, and the knockoffs. No difference in functionality... none in longevity, none in charge capacity. One of these days I'll have to charge an OEM and non OEM, and shoot each dry just to see if there is a 'real' difference, but even that would only be anecdotal.</p>

<p>That said, I've seen one (OEM) batt fail catastrophically (as in explode into flames and smoke). It was a Nikon (not Canon), but I imagine Nikon demands the same Canon does from it's battery manufacturers, so remember that outliers happen (The camera (a D700 if I recall correctly) was obviously a complete loss, and the photog suffered some burns as well).</p>

[acedigital]

<p>Steve, don't over think the batteries and CF cards. Unless you do video, you probably don't need the highest end CF cards. I have used OEM batteries (Sterlingtek) on Canon 20/40Ds with no issues. Welcome to the world of digital - oh and get a copy of Adobe Lightroom and a Scott Kelby Lightroom book to get you started and shoot RAW!</p>

[steve_anderle1]

<p>Thanks for all of the advice. I picked up a new 5D2, and have a battery, cards, and an L-bracket on the way. Heading out tomorrow for a couple days of camping with the family. And to play with my new toys!</p>

<p>Taken a few shots without reading or changing any settings. Impressive.</p>

<p>A co-worker also recommended Lightroom, so I will give it a try. I have PS as a backup plan.</p>

<p>First thing I noticed, is the camera uses auto ISO by default. I know how to change it. My question is, how does digital ISO compare to film. I'm used to using 50 and 100 ISO film mostly, with occasional higher ISO.</p>

<p>Thanks again for all of your help.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>Steve, your question is huge, but it's answered pretty well here:<br>

<a href="http://www.birdphotographers.net/forums/showthread.php/100597-What-is-ISO-on-a-digital-camera">http://www.birdphotographers.net/forums/showthread.php/100597-What-is-ISO-on-a-digital-camera</a></p>

<p>Another huge thing to learn is that you don't shoot digital the same as you shoot film. Most of us, when shooting Raw, "Expose To The Right" of the histogram. By technically over exposing, but without blowing out important highlights, you maximize dynamic range. In-camera JPEGs will look washed out and with low contrast, but properly converted in LR you'll preserve more shadow detail and have more ulitmate contrast. This is only for Raw, but since you're used to film, you'll want to shoot in Raw to get the best end result and control your output.</p>

<p>Unless you're already expert in PS, don't start there. LR is a great place to start and you can pull out PS for really troublesome adjustments. LR will allow 99% of what most of us want.</p>

<p>Don't be afraid to shoot at ISOs like 400 and 800. Your new camera will yield exceptional results at these levels. You'll experience new freedom that'll take some getting used to, after all these years in the straight jacket.</p>