d._david_young Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 <p>hello<br>I am looking into buying a Hasselblad 500 V and attaching a Leaf Aptus 22 back to it with a CF lens.<br>-Hasselblad V because of leaf shutter and high sync speeds for balancing outdoors; and the solid build of them.<br>-Aptus 22 for entry level and affordability (MFDBs)<br>My Questions:<br>1) is it attach and shoot?: can I buy a 500 V system with lens, viewfinder and attach a Leaf Aptus 22 and start shooting right away. Do I Need Cables connecting anywhere? (Not including the ELX series)<br>2) what does one use for post processing? best one?<br>3) on cropping:a) is any file cropped out with the V? (I don't understand this alot but know that the sensor is smaller than the 6x6 opening on the V)</p><p>note: I did google search for the cable part and did not find much.<br>thanks<br>Doug Y</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian yarvin Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 <p>David:</p> <p>I'll take question #1. Yes, pretty much. You'll need a cable from the flash sync on the lens to the back so they can communicate. It takes a few seconds to hook up.</p> <p>If you then shoot with flash, you sync from the back itself.</p> <p>Brian</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d._david_young Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 <p>thanks Brian! I was hoping for "cable-less" plug and play; I guess the only way to do that is with a 500V and a Hasselblad CFV. Would really like a CFV-16 as first choice but am wary that some of them had fungus (or mold) problems with the sensor.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian yarvin Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 <p>You're welcome. I've never heard of that mold, but with all of these backs, the cover glass will need changing from time to time - at least that's my experience.</p> <p>Good luck with this - the look and feel of V Series digital images is wonderful.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d._david_young Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 <p>hello again Brian:<br> This is the link to one of the fungus discussions, http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=62192.0<br> <br />Too bad as it supposedly has a nice "feel" to it with its' "fat Pixels". And they can be had for as low as $4000 dollars from a non-dealer.<br> aloha, Doug Y</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian yarvin Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 <p>That link made interesting reading. I don't know where you're located, but dealers in NYC will often have trade-ins for much less.</p> <p>In my own decades of professional photography, I've seen fungus on every sort of optical surface, I never would have thought to blame anybody. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d._david_young Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 <p>I read that the fungus may have started out-of-factory before it had a chance to dry.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondebanks Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>1) Lens flash-synch cable, as Brian described</p> <p>2) I think that most Leaf Aptus users use either Leaf Capture or Phase One's Capture One DB - both are free to download.</p> <p>3) The Aptus 22 is 48x36 mm. Film in the Hasselblad would be 56x56 mm. So the horizontal crop factor is 56/48 = 1.17, while the diagonal crop factor is 79/60 = 1.3, and the square to square crop factor is 56/36 = 1.5.<br> If you would normally print rectangular "645" crops from the film, the 1.17x applies, while if you would normally print square from the film, the 1.5x applies. If the aspect ratio doesn't matter and you just want to get as much in as possible with either medium, then the 1.3x applies.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d._david_young Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>Ray<br> re: #3-I am still using film and print "full-frame" with shaved out negative carriers so there is a black "frame" around my printed black and white darkroom prints; I guess it would be best to actually test out a digital back or assist a pro who uses one to actually understand the "cropping" of the different size MFDB sensors. Does any of the image get cut-off from these sensors? (my current gear are film: 645, 67, and 135 + 6x8 + 4x5). (please excuse if this last question is naive). Also am in Hawaii so not much in way of rentals to use or alot of pros who use assistants.<br> thanks>Doug</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondebanks Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>Doug,</p> <p>The Aptus 22 sensor is smaller than the Hasselblad film gate (per the figures I gave above), so there is nothing which crops or cuts off the digital image. In fact, this goes for every digital back that will fit the Hasselblad. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d._david_young Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 <p>ok, thanks Ray. I understand (now), the crop affects the filter factor; and doesn't cut-off any part of the image!>Doug</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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